Decware'S Deathbox Ii

[Modus]

I have 2 10"s now. Actually old school MTX Blue Thunder's ...late 90's era. They are tired.

I would like to place something with a smaller foot print in the trunk. My box is 32x12x12.

Is there something that would sound the same in a smaller foot print? 1 12? would I be happy would it sound like 2 10's?

Ugh..

Does any one have any experience with this box? Might be over kill but I might try it.

Found this. 10" bandpass sub box They quote "It was designed to get the most bass out of the smallest cabinet so it would fit into almost any car. With one ten it can, more often than not, seriously out-perform a store-bought pair of 12's in most cars."

Simply enough I have to clean up my Trunk.

Thoughts?

[andyb5]

I have 2 10"s now. Actually old school MTX Blue Thunder's ...late 90's era. They are tired.

I would like to place something with a smaller foot print in the trunk. My box is 32x12x12.

Is there something that would sound the same in a smaller foot print? 1 12? would I be happy would it sound like 2 10's?

Ugh..

Does any one have any experience with this box? Might be over kill but I might try it.

Found this. 10" bandpass sub box They quote "It was designed to get the most bass out of the smallest cabinet so it would fit into almost any car. With one ten it can, more often than not, seriously out-perform a store-bought pair of 12's in most cars."

Simply enough I have to clean up my Trunk.

Thoughts

Can you give us a bit more info about your current system? Budget, sub box type (sealed or ported) and RMS (continuous) power rating for your amps/subs. That way we can help you out with more accurate info.

One way to add more bass with a smaller box is to increase the (RMS) power the amp drives the sub with. So if you have 2 10's running 300W RMS in a sealed box, a 12 in a ported box running 500W RMS will provide similar bass output, while using much less space.

If you go with a new subwoofer, the box will have to be chosen to accommodate the min. air volume requirements of the subwoofer.

Here's a nutshell explanation of how to pick the proper enclosure http://www.crutchfield.com/Learn/learningcenter/car/subwoofers_enclosures.html

The sparknotes version of the above link:

A sealed box is the smallest in terms of overall volume, but also has the least output. However, a sealed box has the best sound quality (SQ) and , deep "punchy" sound.

A ported box requires more volume, but will have more dB than a sealed box. It gives up a bit of SQ, but still sounds very good. A "booming" sound.

A bandpass is a combination of sealed and ported designs, has the most output over a highly specific frequency range.

[Modus]

Can you give us a bit more info about your current system? Budget, sub box type (sealed or ported) and RMS (continuous) power rating for your amps/subs. That way we can help you out with more accurate info.

One way to add more bass with a smaller box is to increase the (RMS) power the amp drives the sub with. So if you have 2 10's running 300W RMS in a sealed box, a 12 in a ported box running 500W RMS will provide similar bass output, while using much less space.

Duely noted. No experience with the Death-box?

My system was put together 8 years ago. Despite it's age it's still very functional.

Head unit Alpine CDA-7845 (defiantly could use a new one, but this still works)

EQ 9 band Kenwood KGC-6242A (love that I can tweak the freq on the fly, including sub cut off ect.)

1 Farad Cap ( I think it's completely useless)

50W RMS X 4 Sherwood amp Running at 2 ohms stable cause there's 8 speakers in the car. (speakers are bone stock)

100W RMS X 2 Sherwood amp 2 MTX Blue Thunder Subs 10" (talk about kicking it old skool)

I could bridge the amp for 200Watts RMS for a single sub, seems a bit low compared to what's out there.

That's why I was looking at different boxes. (small displacement high horse power)

The box is 2.6 cubic feet roughly, (out side dimension) I don't know how anything other than what I own would sound in the car. (ported vs sealed)

I really would like to keep it as cheap as possible. (naturally)

I have the means to build a box. Buying is instant gratification.

Most of all I'd like to keep the sound of 2 tens in a smaller foot print.

If need be I'd spend some dough on a new sub and materials for and or a box.

[andyb5]

Duely noted. No experience with the Death-box?

No, no personal experience with that box.

My system was put together 8 years ago. Despite it's age it's still very functional.

Head unit Alpine CDA-7845 (defiantly could use a new one, but this still works)

EQ 9 band Kenwood KGC-6242A (love that I can tweak the freq on the fly, including sub cut off ect.)

1 Farad Cap ( I think it's completely useless)

50W RMS X 4 Sherwood amp Running at 2 ohms stable cause there's 8 speakers in the car. (speakers are bone stock)

100W RMS X 2 Sherwood amp 2 MTX Blue Thunder Subs 10" (talk about kicking it old skool)

I could bridge the amp for 200Watts RMS for a single sub, seems a bit low compared to what's out there.

How many ohms is the amp stable to? (1 ohm, 2 ohms) For example, what is the lowest impedance it can run at bridged?

That's why I was looking at different boxes. (small displacement high horse power)

The box is 2.6 cubic feet roughly, (out side dimension) I don't know how anything other than what I own would sound in the car. (ported vs sealed)

It appears you have a sealed box. Are there any slots or openings on the box other than the mounting holes for the sub? If no, your box is sealed. A ported box will be noticeably louder than your existing setup

I really would like to keep it as cheap as possible. (naturally)

Cheapest option would be to re-use your existing amp, build a new ported (or bandpass) box, and buy a new 12" subwoofer.

I have the means to build a box. Buying is instant gratification.

Grab a sheet of 3/4" MDF, some drywall screws and a tub of silicone caulking and save yourself the $$

Most of all I'd like to keep the sound of 2 tens in a smaller foot print.

If need be I'd spend some dough on a new sub and materials for and or a box.

I'd recommend the 12" Alpine SWR in a ported box.

http://signature.crutchfield.com/s_500SWR1242/Alpine-SWR-1242D.html?c=3&tp=111&avf=N

[faultywarrior]

I've heard good things about the Alpine subs. I have a 12" Rockford Fossgate, and it hits hard, but my brother has had a 10" JL, and it hit just as hard. (He had a better amp though.) As of now, he's running the same amp I have (Alpine MRP-M450) and either a 10" or 12" Alpine Type R. (I think it's a Type R. IDK for sure though.)

Custom box is the way to go. My Rockford is in a pre-fab box, and it sound like crap. (It hits hard, but almost seems out of phase, which it's not. [Maybe it's because I'm filling my entire SUV with that sub, idk?])

Impedance is going to be a big factor in the output power of the sub. Mine is fine at 2 Ohms, but I've run it at 8 before.

The amp you listed as the current one seems a bit under rated. 200 RMS can be a lot, or nothing. If it's 200 RMS at 8 Ohms, then your good. But if it's 200 RMS at 2 Ohms, I'd say get a new amp. (Most people I know who have high-end setups run 500 RMS JL Slash series amps, which can do 500 RMS at anything from 1.5 ohms, up to 4 ohms, so IDK.)

[andyb5]

I've heard good things about the Alpine subs. I have a 12" Rockford Fossgate, and it hits hard, but my brother has had a 10" JL, and it hit just as hard. (He had a better amp though.) As of now, he's running the same amp I have (Alpine MRP-M450) and either a 10" or 12" Alpine Type R. (I think it's a Type R. IDK for sure though.)

One of the guys I know here at RPI has 2 Alpine Type R 10's in a ported box with a Kenwood Excelon X1200M (1200 RMS) and its nearly as loud as my buddy's 2 JL 13W3's in a ported box powered by 2 JL Slash V2 5001v2 (total of 1000 RMS) that tested at 144 DB

Custom box is the way to go. My Rockford is in a pre-fab box, and it sound like crap. (It hits hard, but almost seems out of phase, which it's not. [Maybe it's because I'm filling my entire SUV with that sub, idk?])

Custom box=custom sound

And more than likely the airspace in your box is either insufficient (or possibly too much) for the sub, or the amp is clipping at the higher end of its power spectrum

Impedance is going to be a big factor in the output power of the sub. Mine is fine at 2 Ohms, but I've run it at 8 before.

The amp you listed as the current one seems a bit under rated. 200 RMS can be a lot, or nothing. If it's 200 RMS at 8 Ohms, then your good. But if it's 200 RMS at 2 Ohms, I'd say get a new amp. (Most people I know who have high-end setups run 500 RMS JL Slash series amps, which can do 500 RMS at anything from 1.5 ohms, up to 4 ohms, so IDK.)

Remember, a ported box is more efficient than a sealed box, so that will help to maximize SPL output. By using a physically larger sub, he can maximize the air volume moved by those same 200 watts, which is why, in this case, a bigger sub is better.

[Platinum850Wagon]

I bought the plans and built a deathbox about 10 years ago. Originally, I was running two punch 45 amps and two 10" punch subwoofers. Needed some trunk space in the 240 turbo, I built the deathbox. Scaled down the drawings and went with one 8" woofer and had almost the same amount of sound. I liked that it was tunable. Overall, I was very happy with the deathbox. It only took up a small corner of the trunk. Mounted my amps and crossover across the back seats, suddenly I had a trunk again!