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A New Problem Discovered


f1fanoly

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No.

You're wrong. You're either ill-informed, have never actually tried it, or are being an as$hole. I am running a 97 n/a cam cover on my 94 turbo head, on a 97 turbo block. No problems. Just put a cam cover on from a different car into a buds 960. So I know for a fact, because its in my car, my friends car, that they are not mated pairs. What sense would that make anyeway? Crack a cam cover changing cams or cam seals and you need to buy a whole new head?

The filler necks i've removed come out from the back, meaning you need to take the cam cover off to remove the filler neck.

Is it a part thats available to buy?Havent been able to call dealer yet.

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This is not a problem and will be easily remedied -if you don't crack the cam cover(I've done it because i didn't have a proper appreciation). You probably know this, but I always like to throw this in if its possible this is your first 850 cam cover. Crack the cover off very evenly using the tabs. Leave the bolts in on the corners backed out just a bit. I don't want to see your project get further sidetracked. Keep going. This changes the calculus for "is this a good opportunity to just go ahead and do valve stem seals?".

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Lots of the cam covers are interchangeable. So saying that they are all matched to the cylinder head is wrong. Actually, chances are that if you get a cam cover from the same year and model car, it will work fine and match up....I know this because when I did my build I had about 5 cylinder heads I had to go through, including the VMS one, and the one that is rebuilt, jobbed, and currently in the car.

The oil cap/filler neck is pressed in from the inside. And it's pressed in WELL. The reason I can say this is because of the above, and because of the fact that several people have done dual fillers on their blocks ie BTCC.....the cover on the back side of the engine can be hammered down.

You'll have to remove the cam cover to do this. I'd recommend locking your cams down, and carefully removing your cam cover, and getting the neck that's fallen in there (and verify that no metal pieces have gone inside)....carefully press it back in...it should seal up just fine as long as there is no deformity resulting from it falling in...

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Lots of the cam covers are interchangeable. So saying that they are all matched to the cylinder head is wrong. Actually, chances are that if you get a cam cover from the same year and model car, it will work fine and match up....I know this because when I did my build I had about 5 cylinder heads I had to go through, including the VMS one, and the one that is rebuilt, jobbed, and currently in the car.

The oil cap/filler neck is pressed in from the inside. And it's pressed in WELL. The reason I can say this is because of the above, and because of the fact that several people have done dual fillers on their blocks ie BTCC.....the cover on the back side of the engine can be hammered down.

You'll have to remove the cam cover to do this. I'd recommend locking your cams down, and carefully removing your cam cover, and getting the neck that's fallen in there (and verify that no metal pieces have gone inside)....carefully press it back in...it should seal up just fine as long as there is no deformity resulting from it falling in...

Ok,i'll give it a go,how would you all suggest i press it?

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Well if you have access to an actual press, that would be best. But we'll assume you don't. Do you have a large vice type device?

Actually, I think the press might be too much stress for the cam cover. I'm not sure of this, but those things tend to flex a good amount....I have no suggestions on how to get it pressed back in....machine shop would be able to help you

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Actually, I think the press might be too much stress for the cam cover. I'm not sure of this, but those things tend to flex a good amount....I have no suggestions on how to get it pressed back in....machine shop would be able to help you

Ok,so answer this for me.I'm fairly mechanically inclined and know my way around other motors,but new to Volvo.I will build the cam holder tool and follow your suggestions and the manual,but im wondering what the significance of locking the cams down prior to starting the procedure?Decrease stresses on the cam cover to minimize chance of cracking,or keeping cam timing roughly where it should be while disassembling?If the former,fair enough.if the latter,then I see no need to do this based on what I now know about cam/crank timing & where cams are supposed to be.

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I personally have never locked the cams down. When I did one of my swaps, I just pulled the cam cover, and swapped a new one on (dual neck). I had to make a tool to pull the cover down evenly, I used the two outer spark plug holes, and god some m14 rod threaded at 1.25 for the plug holes, and a common thread on top for a nut. Put a piece of angle iron across them, and torqued the cover down evenly.

When I did my cam swap, I pulled the old cams, put the seals on the new ones, and plopped them in, pulled the cam cover down, and set the timing. Just a bit of advice, either go with the volvo pink stuff, or the toyota black mystery goop for the cam cover seal, it needs to be a quality anerobic sealer.

When removing the cam cover, start from the inside and work your way out. I usually torque from the outside-in once its seated with the tool. If you don't fab up a similar tool to pull it down evenly and gradually, you will crack it. And when pulling it off, make sure the studs are pounded all the way down, and hit it with a rubber mallet to get it up nicely.

oh and I pressed the filler neck in with c-clamps and chunks of 2x4's. Once you have the cover off, you will see how it is put in.

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Ok,so answer this for me.I'm fairly mechanically inclined and know my way around other motors,but new to Volvo.I will build the cam holder tool and follow your suggestions and the manual,but im wondering what the significance of locking the cams down prior to starting the procedure?Decrease stresses on the cam cover to minimize chance of cracking,or keeping cam timing roughly where it should be while disassembling?If the former,fair enough.if the latter,then I see no need to do this based on what I now know about cam/crank timing & where cams are supposed to be.

Well, both. The cams are generally loaded depending on valve position. When pulling the cam cover, they will push up on the cover. You can definitely pull it without locking the cams down, but if you can make the tool, it will keep the cam timing set, and it will lessen the stress on the cover....I'd suggest making the locking tool....

It will also help when putting the cover back on...you can bolt according to specs without hindrance of upwards cam pressure

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I have had no trouble getting cam cover bolts started without any hold down tool. The thing is just to bring it down (or up) uniformly. OP, your point about not needing the cam locking tool because you understand the timing dynamics is something I agree with. Its not like the cam is going roll over and create interference. Mine didn't move at all.

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I personally have never locked the cams down. When I did one of my swaps, I just pulled the cam cover, and swapped a new one on (dual neck). I had to make a tool to pull the cover down evenly, I used the two outer spark plug holes, and god some m14 rod threaded at 1.25 for the plug holes, and a common thread on top for a nut. Put a piece of angle iron across them, and torqued the cover down evenly.

When I did my cam swap, I pulled the old cams, put the seals on the new ones, and plopped them in, pulled the cam cover down, and set the timing. Just a bit of advice, either go with the volvo pink stuff, or the toyota black mystery goop for the cam cover seal, it needs to be a quality anerobic sealer.

When removing the cam cover, start from the inside and work your way out. I usually torque from the outside-in once its seated with the tool. If you don't fab up a similar tool to pull it down evenly and gradually, you will crack it. And when pulling it off, make sure the studs are pounded all the way down, and hit it with a rubber mallet to get it up nicely.

oh and I pressed the filler neck in with c-clamps and chunks of 2x4's. Once you have the cover off, you will see how it is put in.

What studs are you referring to,the dowels the cam cover lines up on?Hit what with a rubber mallet,the cam cover?And where do I hit it,all over?The tabs?And am I hitting down,I dont see how it could be any other way.Bear with me,I think its all starting to make sense.

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