TyConn Posted July 9, 2010 Report Share Posted July 9, 2010 here's another take on that. cameron, owned, and a few others have this setup as well That looks freaking RETARDED Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DARKSIDE Posted July 9, 2010 Report Share Posted July 9, 2010 looks pretty decent...at least u tried...and u can always work on making it better/more efficient... good job though... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t-townS70 Posted July 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2010 wow, you made the stock design worse. You don't want to suck up engine bay air, you failed very hard. These guys that do this and think their car is faster and cooler are silly. This is how its done, under 50 as well (k'n was the bulk, 4in dryer ducting from hd). my old n/a Your so cool dude, I wish I could be like you someday....By the way.....that engine looks like booty son :ph34r: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z31jaime Posted July 9, 2010 Report Share Posted July 9, 2010 look everyone is trying to get the design right and all of you FAIL. Falcone why in the hell would adding 4" dryer tube help? you added so much more length to the OEM set up. I could understand if you were going to make it come out of the OEM spot right behind the grill, then bigger tube+ filter works. but bigger tube+ longer distance cancel each other out. + your pulling air from the ground...everyone knows the Ground is always hotter then higher up i never understood moving the intake part of out systems from behind the grill (cooler location) to the lower bumper (hotter air being heated by the road)... plus the tube itself is going to be heated from the heat under the hood. again, shorter is better, the less distance the air had to travel the less heat it picks up for the motor. now on to the filter box. use the OEM or make a fully enclosed box. like this... that will allow you to work with step 3. keeping the tube going into the throttle body as straight as possible. the less bends you have to use the better. and using hard pipes rather than the accordion tube lets the air flow smoothly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mesoam Posted July 9, 2010 Report Share Posted July 9, 2010 i don't think you're allowed to make such statements That looks freaking RETARDED Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greekone Posted July 9, 2010 Report Share Posted July 9, 2010 i don't think you're allowed to make such statements :lol: :lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Falcone Posted July 10, 2010 Report Share Posted July 10, 2010 Your so cool dude, I wish I could be like you someday....By the way.....that engine looks like booty son To each their own. I go for functionality and could care less about looks. I drive a car that looks like a bbq for fcks sake. One day you might be able to touch the fringe of my coolness. look everyone is trying to get the design right and all of you FAIL. 1)Falcone why in the hell would adding 4" dryer tube help? you added so much more length to the OEM set up. I could understand if you were going to make it come out of the OEM spot right behind the grill, then bigger tube+ filter works. but bigger tube+ longer distance cancel each other out. 2)+ your pulling air from the ground...everyone knows the Ground is always hotter then higher up i never understood moving the intake part of out systems from behind the grill (cooler location) to the lower bumper (hotter air being heated by the road)... plus the tube itself is going to be heated from the heat under the hood. again, shorter is better, the less distance the air had to travel the less heat it picks up for the motor. First of all, no offence, but did you think about anything before you started typing?. 1) Whats the stock diameter? 2.5 at the largest? 4in moves more air towards the filter element, not making the engine have to suck as hard as you do cock when its under wot demanding lots of air. Adding length does not affect anything, this is a non-pressurized intake. I could understand if tripled the length of a charge pipe, but an induction pipe does not matter. Have you seen how long lambo's induction pipes are? Comming out right by the grille gives you the rad heat at idle, think about that one. 2) Does heat rise or sink? If you answered sink, I'm stopping. Plus, there is nothing giving off heat at the lower grille, other than the pavement, which is cooler than your rad. And your argument about the less distance the air has to travel, the cooler it will be is wrong. I bet the air at my filter element is cooler than the air at the OP's filter element at idle, wot or any parameters. His is eating engine air for breakfast, and nothing he can do about it. And before anyone tells me I can suck up water, I drove the nose into lake ontario on a boat ramp, to see if its possible, and you know what, my car didn't hydrolock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dougy Posted July 10, 2010 Report Share Posted July 10, 2010 look everyone is trying to get the design right and all of you FAIL. I don't know about that. http://www.ipdusa.com/uploads/videos/SR5T_Shortram_intake.wmv Stock air-box is about 18 degrees hotter than ambient air. IPd short-ram is about 23 degrees hotter than ambient air. Inside my CAI is never hotter that 3 degrees over ambient air when cruising and engine is hot...not 18 or 23 over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.