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Good Aftermarket Speakers


mrbrightside2009

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^ +1

I've been impressed with the Alpine SPS-600C's I've been running for the past 18 months. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_11284_Alpine+SPS-600C.html

They have pretty respectable low end for a 6.75" speaker, but not as good as the Polk's. Plus, they are a direct replacement for the stock speakers.

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I'm going to 3rd the polks. Running the 4" reverence components up front with the tweets in the sail panels. Polks are not bass heavy, they're for when you want to listen to the music. They also tend to be a bit power hungry (92db) but it's well worth it. I picked up a set of alpine 6.5" components for the rear doors (my son is spoiled :D , tweets mounted 1.5" behind and 3" down from lock pin), and they're just harsh in comparison (even though they're 8 years newer).

Put the sub back in, get it crossed right, and turn it down. When you send full range to a 6" or smaller driver, they have to work overly hard to reproduce the low frequencies. The cone is too small. This not only leads to less output, but more distortion in the signal. Your HU amp then works harder too, and gets hotter, pulls more power...

And leave the speaker "cups" in when you swap; they're part of the baffle system and you'll just be blowing air though holes without them. I tried it with and without them, the difference is mind blowing. They put a shitton of cash into the sound system development, and even tho the drivers are meh, the door baffles are damn good. You can fit a 6.5" in the rear cups.

I don't send anything under 125hz to the doors, Crossovers are as close to the drivers as possible. 10" (sealed) gets 100hz and below, 12db slopes on both sides. Dash speakers have been removed and replaced with boost gauge + radar ;)

Damnit givin away all the secrets on this one :lol:

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  • 2 months later...

When you send full range to a 6" or smaller driver, they have to work overly hard to reproduce the low frequencies. The cone is too small. This not only leads to less output, but more distortion in the signal. Your HU amp then works harder too, and gets hotter, pulls more power...

I don't send anything under 125hz to the doors, Crossovers are as close to the drivers as possible. 10" (sealed) gets 100hz and below, 12db slopes on both sides.

Damnit givin away all the secrets on this one :lol:

How's this done with non-component speakers? I've got Polk DBs in the front doors, stock in the rear and an Infinity Basslink. Is there a way to starve the door speakers of lower Mhz and get better sound? I'm all ears.

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How's this done with non-component speakers? I've got Polk DBs in the front doors, stock in the rear and an Infinity Basslink. Is there a way to starve the door speakers of lower Mhz and get better sound? I'm all ears.

You can try adjusting the EQ on your 901, it has a seperate set of adjustments for front and rear channels, which is a really nice feature.

Alternatively, you can buy some bass blockers (effectively doing the same job as upgrading the capacitors on the stock tweeters) that filter out all frequencies below a set cutoff point:

These 150hz bass blockers should work nicely for your Polk's and the stockers (get rid of 'em and get another set of Polk's tongue.gif)

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ive always been a fan of alpine... but im sure there are better things out there....

i would go with the type S unless you were willing to amp them... then i would def go with the type R's

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