boxpin Posted July 12, 2010 Report Share Posted July 12, 2010 So I have been driving around town loving the new turbo. Boosting around 15-17psi. All is well. This afternoon I am on the freeway going about 60 and punch it. The boost builds fast, spikes to 20 then I get a pop, pop so I immediately let off...I notice no differenc in the engine, runs fine, idles fine, etc. Next light I take off fast, everything is fine, no issues. I go to my destination then when I am leaving the parking lot I decide to video the boost gauge in hopes of catching the pop and boost spike. I get it the first time. I pull out of the parking lot and punch it. Now watch the video, notice when I punch it it spikes to 20 the immediately but faintly you can here the pop and then it drops to about 10psi. Now the second video, I am at a stop sign and try it again. Notice no spike and still no boost past 10psi.... What happened????? Car is still running fine. Specs: T-5R engine w/Auto 18T OBX downpipe 3" exhaust to flowmaster then out. Cold intake MSD coil IPD Wires Iridium plugs IPD RIP IPD Stage One ECU MBC 15psi IPD CBV Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keep Calm Chive On Posted July 12, 2010 Report Share Posted July 12, 2010 I might wanna say limp mode? Ive had that. Im only tuned for 15psi and ill spike 19+ occasionally. and i get a low misfire like sound. Its prolly casue im not using OEM plugs. BKR7E are good to about 17-18 psi then have a blow out issue i hear. So perhaps you just kept on the throttle a bit to long and went to limpy. Ive done many things to try and stop the spike but have yet to get it tamed. Let me know how it works out. If you think your in limpy disco the battery an touch the terminals together for 15 seconds. then wait a sec and reconnect. Youll "hard reset" the car. Then "learn" the car for a few short trips. The reason i think i avoided Limp mode is because the split second i heard the first "brrp" i was in nutral instantly. must be my ninja/cat like reactions (1.1 r/t first time at the track haha) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
weekendwarrior Posted July 12, 2010 Report Share Posted July 12, 2010 Sounds like what happened to me, check all of your intercooler hoses. The hoses might look intact, but you need to physically tug em' and check everything out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxpin Posted July 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2010 I will try the reset and the hoses. I have had a hose come off before, it acted differently then that. Can I just pull the ECU then plug it back in? I am at work and can do that without a 10mm. I also need to know how to get this boost spike under control. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keep Calm Chive On Posted July 12, 2010 Report Share Posted July 12, 2010 shortest Vac lines to the TCV as possible, properly set your wastegate. In the start people do 1-2 turns, Actually measure it. I believe it was 3.7lbs or something (dont quote me just ask lucky) but he told me as you increase the tune you have to lower the wastegate because its pumping more and needs to be able to dump more. You wont boost any less so dont worry. Also and spongy intercooler lines etc can casue spikes. A failing TCV as well but i have the HD TCV so idk. As much as i dont want a MBC if i cant figure it out soon ill have to get one. I dont like the rod bender "love hate" with MBC but if im at risk without one might as well give it a shot. Check your plugs when you get home as well see if any are charred up or sparkly clean. Sparkly clean = coolant leak sooo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keep Calm Chive On Posted July 12, 2010 Report Share Posted July 12, 2010 did you get like a little drum roll noise? its hard to tell in the video but that looks exactly like what happened to me. I checked all my hoses and intercooler for cracks and am 100% sure it wasnt that. I associated it to spark blow out. Ask lookforjoe, he said that NGK BKR7E plugs are great until your around the 18psi range after that OEM are needed. Although you werent intending to hit 19-20 psi perhaps your plugs blew out. The NKG's are a heat range colder and can prolly handle more than a typical plug but who knows. Iridium plugs .... perhaps thats the issue as well? Im not 100% sure so someone will flame me but i thought OEM volvo plugs are copper plugs with platinum coated tips. they are also pointed finely rather than other standard plugs that have a flat top. All i know from what ive read is that... precious metal plugs were developed for people who dont change or are on high change intervals. similar to my grandma who god knows when she changed her plugs, platinums are great because at higher temperature they have self cleaning properties (think about your cat.) Their spark is less strong but more consistant over time regarding age, coppers are stronger spark but age poorly. mine come out every 2-3max oil changes aka 6k-9k max. I believe taht the OEM are copper with platinum because they have the ability to stay clean with the copper still providing a rather strong spark. I also notice you have a MSD coil... im getting rid of mine because a bird told me so. Im goin back to Bosch OEM :ph34r: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Bondo Posted July 12, 2010 Report Share Posted July 12, 2010 did you get like a little drum roll noise? its hard to tell in the video but that looks exactly like what happened to me. I checked all my hoses and intercooler for cracks and am 100% sure it wasnt that. I associated it to spark blow out. Ask lookforjoe, he said that NGK BKR7E plugs are great until your around the 18psi range after that OEM are needed. Um no. You would not want to go from BKR7's, which are a heat range colder than stock, back to stock heat range when running over 18psi. If anything that is when you want to swap from OEM to BKR7's. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krn Posted July 13, 2010 Report Share Posted July 13, 2010 10 psi seems too high to be limp home mode. What happens if you reconnect the stock TCV instead of using an MBC? (tricky part there is you should reset the ECU if you do that so you don't know if the reset did it or changing TCV/MBC did it). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AverageVolvo Posted July 13, 2010 Report Share Posted July 13, 2010 Bad Wastegate??? Is your mbc in-line with a tcv? or Compressor to Wastegate? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted July 13, 2010 Report Share Posted July 13, 2010 Um no. You would not want to go from BKR7's, which are a heat range colder than stock, back to stock heat range when running over 18psi. If anything that is when you want to swap from OEM to BKR7's. He's not intentionally running 18psi, is my understanding. That was not my experience back when I was using an IPD tune, or even with the Woth tune. I experienced blow out over 18-19psi with the BKR7's, that went away with the Volvo packaged TURBO plugs (not iridium). I had tried various gaps on the NGK's, even as low as .025", without success. With the TT ECU, I'm back to the BKR7's, having tried R5672a's to no benefit, but my timing map is substantially different than stock. .. I also had blow out with the MSD coil (from IPD) put the stock coil back, all better Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxpin Posted July 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2010 So many variables. I am going to reset the ECU first with an OBDII scan tool. I will report back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxpin Posted July 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2010 Reset the ECU with the scan tool, no change. Brought the car home and took out the MBC then plugged back in the TCV. Took it out for a spin and guess what...Problem found! Culprit: Now, the boost spike is back and really bad, probably because the TCV is slower to react. I am popping again at high boost. I will go to the Dealership tomorrow and pick up OEM plugs and give that a try. I was thinking of a way to control boost spike...there must be a manual blowoff valve that could be put in the system that lets say is set to 18psi so no matter what happens if you hit that 18psi this thing opens and wont let you get past that. Seems like a very safe way to control it. Is there such a thing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted July 13, 2010 Report Share Posted July 13, 2010 Reset the ECU with the scan tool, no change. I was thinking of a way to control boost spike...there must be a manual blowoff valve that could be put in the system that lets say is set to 18psi so no matter what happens if you hit that 18psi this thing opens and wont let you get past that. Seems like a very safe way to control it. Is there such a thing? autospeed DIY MBC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxpin Posted July 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 13, 2010 I am back running on the TCV. Now I am running a IPD Stage One ECU so the boost should be 13-14psi but its hitting 20. I had to really watch the throttle this morning as I would hit the pop area (18psi) really easy. I am thinking my wastegate is toast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keep Calm Chive On Posted July 13, 2010 Report Share Posted July 13, 2010 sorry for the mis-information everyone. I recalled something from an old post but it must have been rather old haha. Whats the dilly on them Bosch F5DPOR? everyone raves bout this plug that plug and theres a million debates over the "best" plug. You can get those NGK's in an 8 series as well BKR8E's. the best thing to do is go to a dirt bike shop they will have a better chance to get them as 2 strokes are plug fouler kings. Joe im gunna have to email you sometime bout the DIY MBC's that looks sweet im just gunna read up on it more. As for the OP i hope you get it resolved. Did the MBC just stop working or fail? or did it somehow get screwed/unscrewed? As Joe also said im getting rid of the MSD coil and going back to stock. I have a stock one currently but it was the original and had aboot 120,xxx on it sooo idk if i wanna use it but im to broke for a new OEM. I have the NGK BKR7E's what would the ideal gap be for stg.1 tune, 3"dp, 3" catless pipe, 2.5" OBX, HD TCV, Short Ram, that kinda stuff? I went with stock gap on the NGK, should i reduce to perhaps .026? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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