Ihatespeedbumps Posted July 21, 2010 Report Share Posted July 21, 2010 On the hundreds of these cars I've owned and worked on I have never seem or had an issue with one. There will always be a height difference from old to new as the new ones have never had pressure on it. If you haven't seen a bad hydraulic mount on an 850/X70 and you have worked on hundreds, I don't think I'd trust you to fill my washer fluid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
info2x Posted July 21, 2010 Report Share Posted July 21, 2010 Mine were toast when I changed them at ~ 200,000miles. I could tell a big difference in the height of the motor/tranny compared to the sub frame. Pre change the tranny was actually resting on the rubber bumpstop lightly. Afterword there was nearly an inch clearance. I changed them again when I did a motor swap after ~85k...they were still ok but I did not want to do that again any time soon and it was MUCH easier with the motor already out. Plus if those are worn, the other mounts are subject to increased wear. Where is this bump stop? I don't think I've ever noticed it and since I'll be under the car later I figured I'll give it a look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted July 21, 2010 Report Share Posted July 21, 2010 If you haven't seen a bad hydraulic mount on an 850/X70 and you have worked on hundreds, I don't think I'd trust you to fill my washer fluid. I've never had the hydraulic mount cause a single issue. This is not a matter of my skill level and it's not cool questioning my integrity either. Also I still have not seen a real issue with the mount on here either. Other then the OBX clearence issue which is non-stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted July 21, 2010 Report Share Posted July 21, 2010 Where is this bump stop? I don't think I've ever noticed it and since I'll be under the car later I figured I'll give it a look. It's under the tranny, popped into the subframe on the left side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
850newb Posted July 21, 2010 Report Share Posted July 21, 2010 I just had to replace the rear hydro mount, 95 5 spd with 260k on it. Now whether or not it was already seperated in half when I started the clutch job, or I tore it while jacking the engine up is another question. For what its worth there was zero fluid in it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fasteddyT5 Posted July 21, 2010 Report Share Posted July 21, 2010 I've never seen a bad one and I would never recommend wasting the time on them. Spend your time and money on parts that do fail. Mine failed on my 1998 S70 with 140k. I don't know if spending 10 years in the heat of dallas texas had anything to do with it, but when i went to install an IPD skid plate on the car it wouldn't fit, the transmission was sitting too low. All of the other mounts had been replaced within the past year, besides the hydraulic mounts. The car was also was transmitting excessive vibrations and generally not feeling very smooth. All of this went away after the hydraulic mounts were changed. So even though it may be rare, they do fail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the commissar! Posted July 23, 2010 Report Share Posted July 23, 2010 It's under the tranny, popped into the subframe on the left side. ^That Mine failed on my 1998 S70 with 140k. I don't know if spending 10 years in the heat of dallas texas had anything to do with it, but when i went to install an IPD skid plate on the car it wouldn't fit, the transmission was sitting too low. All of the other mounts had been replaced within the past year, besides the hydraulic mounts. The car was also was transmitting excessive vibrations and generally not feeling very smooth. All of this went away after the hydraulic mounts were changed. So even though it may be rare, they do fail. They must have been REALLY bad to make the Skid plate not fit...Not doing your other mounts any favors either. This man speaks the truth about bad vibes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modus Posted July 24, 2010 Report Share Posted July 24, 2010 If you haven't seen a bad hydraulic mount on an 850/X70 and you have worked on hundreds, I don't think I'd trust you to fill my washer fluid. So I guess this didn't need to be replaced? LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
elturboblanco Posted July 24, 2010 Report Share Posted July 24, 2010 So I guess this didn't need to be replaced? LOL The sort of failure seen above is sometimes caused by an oil leak from the engine, or ATF leak from the power steering system. The detergent qualities of oil or atf are enemies of rubber parts. But it can still happen by sheer wear and tear alone- rubber degrades eventually no matter what, especially in harsher climates when exposed to great thermal expansion and/or road salt. I just did both hydraulic mounts and the right lower mount yesterday on my California 1995 850 Turbo with 238,000 miles. None of the mounts had failed as badly as the one in the above picture, but they were compressed. NOTE: when doing the rear lower mount, you should probably remove the entire bracket (large black metal plate) which attaches the top of the mount to the motor. On the bottom, it bolts through the steering rack. (my rack is next on my replacement list- it leaks fluid like crazy and makes a creaking noise when steered all the way over to either side- bad teflon rings inside i bet). ALSO: leave all top fasteners unbolted until all mounts are installed, as additional jacking may be required to release parts. It helps to have ramps, a large dolly jack, and a set of 3/8 wobbler extensions, 15mm socket, 14mm socket, and universal flex connector, especially when doing the rear mount. The top bolt is right under the turbocharger, and angled inward inconveniently. An electric or air gun helps too. Expect to spend 2 hours doing all three lower mounts if you are an experienced tech, and up to 5 hrs if you don't have the right tools, or you're fighting lots of rust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pops Racer Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 Seems Im doing mine for the second time.. sub frame is getting banged by tranny. To be fair first set was SCantech, 125K ago. I had my mechanic do it last time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pops Racer Posted June 17, 2011 Report Share Posted June 17, 2011 Seems Im doing mine for the second time.. sub frame is getting banged by tranny. To be fair first set was SCantech, 125K ago. I had my mechanic do it last time. You edited out my rant but there is still info missing. Like how to remove the front mount once its loosened. There is no room unless you remove something else. And still no info on removing not just the rear black bracket but the engine part itself that has to come out with it. these are incomplete instructions at best, and could get some one inexperienced in trouble. And disable their car. Complete the instructions or delete the thread. Its BS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pops Racer Posted June 17, 2011 Report Share Posted June 17, 2011 You edited out my rant but there is still info missing. Like how to remove the front mount once its loosened. There is no room unless you remove something else. And still no info on removing not just the rear black bracket but the engine part itself that has to come out with it. these are incomplete instructions at best, and could get some one inexperienced in trouble. And disable their car. Complete the instructions or delete the thread. Its BS. You have to lower the sub frame to get the front out. The nut on top of the rear bracket is 17mm not 15 or 14. If you have 8 fingers like Jimmy Hendrix you can get the nut off from the top, but not likely. Re-installation of the rear is a pain in the ass you have to put shit in loose and tighten up all 3 bracket bolts and start the mount lower bolt, then tighten the 17 mm nut best you can. Plus jacking the engine up. Then you have to lower it to finish tightening all the bolts and nuts. Beware the engine wants to slide off to the passenger side and rest on top of the mount under the crank, lots of fun. I swear I had to jack the engine 2 inches. There are more particulars but why spoil the surprises for you? Good Luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pops Racer Posted June 18, 2011 Report Share Posted June 18, 2011 Day 3. I got rained out last night, but the rear and BOTH brackets are out. Gotta lift engine to remove. Now to figure out the order of operations for reinstall, getting to and tightening all the bolts in order so I can get at them all. The pig is still the top nut in the mount/bracket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bergmjs Posted June 19, 2011 Report Share Posted June 19, 2011 I replaced mine while I had the engine out for my manual swap, easy as pie. Afterwards I could definitely tell the difference between new and old, just with engine noise and vibration. I replaced with Meyle HD mounts from FCP and I suggest them to anyone that's replacing them. Been on there for about 15k miles so far and still feel new. I don't think they're actually on the FCP site, but if you call you can get them, IIRC they were like ~$60 each. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marcopolo Posted July 29, 2011 Report Share Posted July 29, 2011 I changed out my rear hydraulic mount not because it looked shot, but because when I replaced the top engine torque mount, the engine was leaning too far back for me to be able to get the bolt through the arm on the rod. I replaced the firewall and engine torque mounts, rear hydraulic and right hand lower and transmission mount. My vibrations are now twice as bad as before!! BTW the rear mount was a 10 minute job once I figured out a plan of attack. I did have the plumbing out including the heater hoses as I was replacing those as well. The nut on the top is the killer, I used a universal joint, 10 inch 3/8 wobble extension, a 6 and a 3 inch extension, a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter and my 2 foot breaker. It did twist a LOT but when the nut cracked, I could spin it off with just my ratchet and socket. My 3/8 wobble fit nicely between the sway bar and steering rack to get the bottom bolt out. After reading horror stories on here, I can't believe how easy it was. Has anyone else had vibration issues with brand new URO hydraulic mounts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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