What Brand/Type Of Synthetic Oil?

[FredMc]

actually its absolutely true.

Older engines that are currently running dyno juice have a greater chance of leaking as there are lots of sediments just from age that are filling in the little holes. Once you switch to synthetic, the synthetic oil helps clean the system and can cause leaks as the sediments that were there filling the holes are now no longer there.

There are definately better brands as far as synthetic oil goes.

Mobil 1 is a fairly high end oil that is true synthetic where as oils such as castrol syntec claim to be full synthetic but really arent.

I personally am using lubro moly which is hard to get locally. You can get royal purple but that is generally used more so by JDM drivers. Its what I use to use.

Mobil is is alot easier to get your hands on locally.

Thanks for negative comments =)

Not being negative, simply pointing out you are wrong. Post your comments if you dare on www.bobistheoilguy.com and view the responses you get and report here whether they feel you are right or wrong. Mobil 1 is NO more high end than other synthetics you get over the counter at Walmart. Actually Pennzoil Platinum is viewed as a superior oil in most all respects over Mobil 1.

Any synthetic you choose is better than dino oil for turbos. The key thing with oil whether synthetic or not is just change it consistently at around 5 K and no worries.

[Keep Calm Chive On]

G.C. lovely stuff. BOBISTHEOILGUY is a good site if you wanna read about oils but its good that you posted on here cause theres few posts regarding volvos specifically. I always used Castrol Syntec Blend 10w-30 because tahts what the P.O used it whole life, i felt compelled to do better so i put in G.C. and cant tell you how pleased I am. I drip my droppy drip from the turbo drain line but tahts cause i havent figured out how to get that SOB out yet but regardless i use maybe 1/4 qt. between 3000 miles thats because i like it always on the perfect line. Good stuff. kinda pricey especially when it comes out every 3k and looks good but looks arent everything. Im gunna get a UOA just to see how my motors insidey parts are doin.

edit: just noticed bobistheoilguy already been covered

[FredMc]

G.C. lovely stuff. BOBISTHEOILGUY is a good site if you wanna read about oils but its good that you posted on here cause theres few posts regarding volvos specifically. I always used Castrol Syntec Blend 10w-30 because tahts what the P.O used it whole life, i felt compelled to do better so i put in G.C. and cant tell you how pleased I am. I drip my droppy drip from the turbo drain line but tahts cause i havent figured out how to get that SOB out yet but regardless i use maybe 1/4 qt. between 3000 miles thats because i like it always on the perfect line. Good stuff. kinda pricey especially when it comes out every 3k and looks good but looks arent everything. Im gunna get a UOA just to see how my motors insidey parts are doin.

edit: just noticed bobistheoilguy already been covered

Kaptain, run the GC to 5K or beyond. And burning 1/4 quart over 3K miles is really good. If you are just going to stay with 3K mile OCI's then just go back to the Syntec blend to save money.

[Keep Calm Chive On]

i thought about how much money i was wasting. I will continue to do it every 3k for now only cause it gives me piece of mine. although i happen to need an oil change every 1.5 months or less cause of the amount i drive. Because of that I would like to get a UOA before i actually switch what ive done for the life of the car. Only because it can give you all kinda of information toward your current engine condition. Maybe 1-2 UOA then i will start to increase the miles of my oil changes. Im not tryin to be a D*ck haha i just know it isnt hurting anything i just dont wanna go 5k an realize i shoulda swapped it out every 4k. so ill go for 2 UOA then slowly increase 1k at a time. Hell for all i kno at the end of it all i could go 10k (kidding) depending on the UOA results

[VolvoEd]

i thought about how much money i was wasting. I will continue to do it every 3k for now only cause it gives me piece of mine. although i happen to need an oil change every 1.5 months or less cause of the amount i drive. Because of that I would like to get a UOA before i actually switch what ive done for the life of the car. Only because it can give you all kinda of information toward your current engine condition. Maybe 1-2 UOA then i will start to increase the miles of my oil changes. Im not tryin to be a D*ck haha i just know it isnt hurting anything i just dont wanna go 5k an realize i shoulda swapped it out every 4k. so ill go for 2 UOA then slowly increase 1k at a time. Hell for all i kno at the end of it all i could go 10k (kidding) depending on the UOA results

It really is a waste... and unless you track the car or driving like you stole it every day, 3000 mi. OCI is extreme overkill. Especially for an oil like GC. I'd run it 7,500 miles and do a UOA if you're that worried about it. You're not going to "damage" your engine or cause lasting wear...

5,000 miles oil changes are starting to be the new 3,000. But even 5,000 miles with a good synthetic is often a waste. I did 10,000 miles on Pennzoil Platinum with some very heavy driving through mountain grades, full loads, and some very high sustained speeds. No issues at all, engine is as good as ever.

Some UOAs even show that some dino oils are quite capable of 10,000 OCIs during normal driving.

[Keaton85]

Not being negative, simply pointing out you are wrong. Post your comments if you dare on www.bobistheoilguy.com and view the responses you get and report here whether they feel you are right or wrong. Mobil 1 is NO more high end than other synthetics you get over the counter at Walmart. Actually Pennzoil Platinum is viewed as a superior oil in most all respects over Mobil 1.

Any synthetic you choose is better than dino oil for turbos. The key thing with oil whether synthetic or not is just change it consistently at around 5 K and no worries.

I am totally with you on this. I can't stand the M1 fallowing, since it's mostly due to 1: good advertising and 2: It was GREAT oil when it was group-IV and the old times still talk it up at the shops (they don't have the internets et )

As for 3K miles syn. OCIs? I would run the cheapest DINO in my T5M if I was doing 3K OCIs or even 5K OCIs. 1/4 QT in 3K miles is great, considering if you ran 10K mile OCIs you could keep the additive package up with the oil you add.

[mulcy]

GC FTW. It's amazing stuff. We put it in the T5, the 330Ci and the C5.

[mattk42589]

as you can see, everyone and their mother recommends a different oil brand/weight. the fact of the matter is, IF YOU CHANGE YOUR OIL REGULARLY, it doesn't make that much of a difference anyways.

I use mobil 1 5W-30 (its easy to find, and is reasonably priced), and it does a fine job, and I change it every 5k - easy to remember and see on the odometer.

but like I said, if you change your oil regularly, who cares what brand you use, your engine is not going to sustain any premature wear.

some people will spend $50 on synthetic oils for an oil change, and some people will try to go 20,000 miles between oil changes, but what's the point? you could change your oil regularly with - GASP - conventional dyno oil and be fine. all the people on the car forums are enthusiasts and are looking for the best of the best of the best to put in their cars, but it can be a bit overkill.

like most people out there, you probably want to maintain your car, but do it economically as well. why spend unnecessary amounts of money putting the BEST motor oil in, when you can put something cheaper and reputable and the engine will be ABSOLUTELY FINE. if you change your oil regularly, your engine will probably outlive the car anyways.

[ozzimark]

as you can see, everyone and their mother recommends a different oil brand/weight. the fact of the matter is, IF YOU CHANGE YOUR OIL REGULARLY, it doesn't make that much of a difference anyways.

Yes it does. Oil pumps are fixed displacement with a pressure relief set to.. well, I dunno what it is on our volvos. I think 5 bar/75 psi. You want to run as thick of an oil as you can without dumping any excess oil over the relief when up to temperature when WOT at redline. The issue comes when the oil is cold, and is much thicker. The oil pressure goes way up and the effective flow at higher rpm drops because it's all dumping over the relief valve. People talk a lot about having too low oil pressure and such, but that pressure isn't really exposed to the bearings and such, it's the flow that keeps stuff lubricated and cooled. My advice is to use an oil that is around 12-14 cSt at operating temp, and as thin as possible when cold.

[Keep Calm Chive On]

0w-30 GC hahah

[mrbrightside2009]

when i switched to synthetic, i was loosing oil somewhere after 1000 miles of driving, i guess it was exposing some leaks i had, i have recently switched back to high mileage, i use 10w30 quaker state high mileage.

[Keep Calm Chive On]

thicker oil doesnt stop leaks it masks them. How much oil are you using? it is common for turbo cars to burn a tiny bit of oil, in 3k miles i lose at most 1/4 qt. When you get a timing belt service its good to do cam seals at the same time, they are prone to developing leaks, also turbo return line is good to do so you dont have a sloppy oil pan. crush washer on the drain plug too.

[U. A. V.]

Little update:

I decide to go with Mobil 1 synthetic, 5W 30.

2 days later, engine light went on! The code is P1332.

We cleared it and few days after, the engine light went back on again!

I'm not sure if the engine light went on cause I went synthetic or the grade is wrong??

[Keep Calm Chive On]

P1332 (OBD II) = ECM-644A (Volvo DTC)

This code appears to be srored if the camshaft is not in the correct position. The engine control module (ECM) registers this as a fault as soon as the engine is started.

or

The camshaft position (CMP) sensor flanker is not correct in relation to the engine speed (RPM) sensor.

or

The camshaft does not rotate quickly enough in response to the control signal.

Some possible sources include:

- Faulty camshaft position

- camshaft belt has jumped out of place on the cogs

- defective reset valve

- mechanical fault in the Variable valve timing (VVT) unit

- defective camshaft position (CMP) sensor

[Ihatespeedbumps]

Little update:

I decide to go with Mobil 1 synthetic, 5W 30.

2 days later, engine light went on! The code is P1332.

We cleared it and few days after, the engine light went back on again!

I'm not sure if the engine light went on cause I went synthetic or the grade is wrong??

This code can pop up after oil changes, especially if you have some sludge buildup. The fresh oil may have broken some stuff loose and clogged the little ports inside the CVVT solenoid or the hub... or both. Since the code is re-occuring, I would start with a new CVVT solenoid. We'll leave a little room for coincidence too.

It should be noted that this could pop no matter what brand/weight of oil you are using.