NataSS Inc Posted July 30, 2010 Report Share Posted July 30, 2010 OK, just put a new radiator in my 1997 850T5 and now the fan wont turn on. I do know I FORGOT to disconnect the battery after I had already disconnected the relays. Temp doesnt go above normal but when I stop the amount of pressure in the resiovor is rediculous and it starts leaking. I disconnected the battery and let it sit for about 5 minutes and reconnected it and the fans still wont kick on. I double checked all electrical connections to make sure they were back in so it cant be one of those. Any ideas on what may be happening? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NataSS Inc Posted July 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2010 Hopefully someone can throw me a bone on this one. If i cant get it fixed by tomorrow, no bear hunting for me Sunday. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NataSS Inc Posted July 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2010 Found that if I run the heater the fan will come on, but as soon as I turn the heater off the fan will not come on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NataSS Inc Posted July 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2010 OK, I got it running and the upper radiator hose is very hot. The lower hose you can hang onto without any problems. I figured this meant the thermostat may have been jammed up so I pulled it and boiled it to make sure it was working. Apparently the thermostat is fine. What in the heck is causing this issue? I could understand if coolant wasnt moving through the block that it wouldnt trigger the fan but with the thermostat working it has to be cycling through. I am at a complete loss. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czar Posted July 31, 2010 Report Share Posted July 31, 2010 OK, I got it running and the upper radiator hose is very hot. The lower hose you can hang onto without any problems. I figured this meant the thermostat may have been jammed up so I pulled it and boiled it to make sure it was working. Apparently the thermostat is fine. What in the heck is causing this issue? I could understand if coolant wasnt moving through the block that it wouldnt trigger the fan but with the thermostat working it has to be cycling through. I am at a complete loss. so you were having problems with the rad before this happened with the fan. What happened that you replaced the radiator? Maybe it is related to the fan issue. it sounds like there is an underlying issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NataSS Inc Posted July 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2010 The previous radiator had a hole in it and the fans worked fine up until I removed that radiator and installed the new one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modus Posted July 31, 2010 Report Share Posted July 31, 2010 Check your connections, usually it's something stupid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dsm_owner Posted July 31, 2010 Report Share Posted July 31, 2010 well the fan is automatic and controlled by engine coolant temp. I would just make sure you have no shorts in the fan circuit then just keep an eye on your engine coolant temp. hopefully someone else can jump in and tell you about when it kicks on because i don't know off the top of my head. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NataSS Inc Posted July 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2010 well the fan is automatic and controlled by engine coolant temp. I would just make sure you have no shorts in the fan circuit then just keep an eye on your engine coolant temp. hopefully someone else can jump in and tell you about when it kicks on because i don't know off the top of my head. This is whats leading me to believe its a flow issue. When the hole in the original radiator showed up, it couldnt have showed up at a worse time, on a road trip. So it got the stop leak bottle put in it. I got my hands on a new chinese radiator for less than half the cost of a new volvo radiator. All the connections are good for the fan relays. There is one big one and one small one on the cowl and the one that is on the shroud itself. I have checked, double checked and triple checked to make sure they were connected. The upper hose is to hot to touch but the lower hose can be held for an indefinate amount of time. This tells me flow is jacked up in either, 1) the cheaper chinese radiator not allowing enough coolant to move through it OR 2)The radiator sealer I put in it to stop the hole on the road trip has gummed up the cooling passages and wont let anything move through it. This is the only thing i can think of that isnt allowing enough coolant to move through to get hot enough to activate the switch for the fan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cgally Posted July 31, 2010 Report Share Posted July 31, 2010 There might be some air trapped in the system. Search the forum and you'll find some tips and procedures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czar Posted July 31, 2010 Report Share Posted July 31, 2010 1) first I would check to make sure there is no obstruction in the rad. disconnect the top hose and the bottom hose. see if water flows through the rad. Next I would see if there is a way to test for flow through the motor I think this will work maybe someone can verify: 2) jack up the front end of the car and loosen (or remove) the drain cock at the back of the motor force water through the motor at the top and see if you can get it to flow out of the back drain cock. still not sure why the fans would not turn on even if there is an obstruction but the fact you added stop leak is an important bit of info to know. good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turconator Posted July 31, 2010 Report Share Posted July 31, 2010 This is whats leading me to believe its a flow issue. When the hole in the original radiator showed up, it couldnt have showed up at a worse time, on a road trip. So it got the stop leak bottle put in it. I got my hands on a new chinese radiator for less than half the cost of a new volvo radiator. All the connections are good for the fan relays. There is one big one and one small one on the cowl and the one that is on the shroud itself. I have checked, double checked and triple checked to make sure they were connected. The upper hose is to hot to touch but the lower hose can be held for an indefinate amount of time. This tells me flow is jacked up in either, 1) the cheaper chinese radiator not allowing enough coolant to move through it OR 2)The radiator sealer I put in it to stop the hole on the road trip has gummed up the cooling passages and wont let anything move through it. This is the only thing i can think of that isnt allowing enough coolant to move through to get hot enough to activate the switch for the fan. THIS! I would never put any kind of stop leak into my engine. I've seen some bad things when people do this. I'm not saying that this could be the problem but i would completely flush the system out if you haven't done so already. Disconnect the two heater hoses that go into the firewall and let the coolant drain out. Next take a garden hose and put it in the coolant reservoir. Tunn the hose on and start the engine. Let the system flush for a couple minutes to get everything out. When done, fill with STRAIGHT! Yes STRAIGHT volvo coolant! DO NOT MIX! There's already water that is going to be left in the system and you don't want the mixture to be less then 50%! I did this with my 850 when my rad cracked along that stupid plastic portion on the side. I've never had a problem. Also let the system bleed all the air out properly. Hope this helps. But i would check all the electrical connections to the fans as well as the other guys posted. Keep us updated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NataSS Inc Posted July 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2010 Can someone tell me what the proper proceedure is to bleed these cars after filling with coolant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NataSS Inc Posted July 31, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2010 One more question. How do you disconnect the 2 lines going into the firewall so I can get a good flush on the system? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czar Posted July 31, 2010 Report Share Posted July 31, 2010 Can someone tell me what the proper proceedure is to bleed these cars after filling with coolant to bleed the system the fluid needs to be circulating. run the car long enough for the thermostat to open (normal operating temperature). After you make sure everything is flowing the air will naturally rise to the top (the expansion tank) Recheck the fluid level and add more if needed. One more question. How do you disconnect the 2 lines going into the firewall so I can get a good flush on the system? since you have added that the stop leak I would want to include the heater core in the flush procedure...which means I would NOT disconnect the hoses at the fire wall (That is just me..someone else might have a different opinion on this) From what I have heard those hoses can me a major PITA to disconnect. Haven't done it myself. That would be my take on dude...I hope you get this worked out. Good Luck! Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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