Matty Moo Posted August 19, 2010 Report Share Posted August 19, 2010 98 V70r, AWD. Needs a new engine. Which is easiest, take it out through the top, or drop the subframe and take it out through the bottom? Looking for the easiest route. It's in my garage and I have room. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted August 19, 2010 Report Share Posted August 19, 2010 I like taking it out the top but either way is fine. I also take the wiring harness out with the motor/tranny. you just have to break down the ECU box and split the connector. Although on some of them they have a PITA ground wire under the front headlight, i think that's on all the 99-00 though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SKI-R Posted August 20, 2010 Report Share Posted August 20, 2010 Done both and I'd say out the top's 'easier', but I'll be going out the bottom again next time. With the subframe out it's easy to replace mounts, swap leaking PS lines and so on - the hard part's actually getting the car lifted enough to slide the whole assembly out. Probably the biggest factor in this decision is what you have for jacking/hoisting//blocking tools. What is the engine plan? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oreo931 Posted August 20, 2010 Report Share Posted August 20, 2010 If you have a lift = bottom If you don't have a lift = top Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted August 20, 2010 Report Share Posted August 20, 2010 I have a lift and all mine come out the top. Idono just easy to cherry pick it for me. But thinking it over going out the bottom would make it easy to clean and inspect everything. But then you have to detatch the motor/tranny from the subframe and all anyway so it might just add more work really? Last parts car I had I flipped it on it's side to unbolt everything haha. Easiest removal ever! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
volvoskiah Posted August 20, 2010 Report Share Posted August 20, 2010 took mine out from the top this morning and put another one in this afternoon so i'd have to go with the top! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troyhyde Posted August 20, 2010 Report Share Posted August 20, 2010 Top is probably easiest without access to a lift. You will need a load leveler for your engine hoist, the engine will not come out or drop in flat horizontally, you need to angle the engine/trans assembly to get them to clear the fenderwells. Transmission angles down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s_moneh Posted August 20, 2010 Report Share Posted August 20, 2010 took mine out from the top this morning and put another one in this afternoon so i'd have to go with the top! its that easy? holy crap is there a write up on how to go about doing this?lmao or just detach everything and make sure u know where it all goes? because i dont evne know where all my mounts are lmao i just know of 2 aha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdlc Posted August 21, 2010 Report Share Posted August 21, 2010 its that easy? holy crap is there a write up on how to go about doing this?lmao or just detach everything and make sure u know where it all goes? because i dont evne know where all my mounts are lmao i just know of 2 aha http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=28973 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SaffC70 Posted August 21, 2010 Report Share Posted August 21, 2010 its that easy? holy crap is there a write up on how to go about doing this?lmao or just detach everything and make sure u know where it all goes? because i dont evne know where all my mounts are lmao i just know of 2 aha out the top is pretty straightforward. simply disconnect everything from the engine bay going to the engine. dont forget about axles! also, like stated previously you can either disconnect the wiring harness from the ecu box or disconnect every wire and ground on the engine. ive always disconnected every wire and ground but if you dont know what you are doing id say it is easier fromn the ecu box. less to put back together Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matty Moo Posted August 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 21, 2010 Justine said the bevel gear has to come off, and two of the bolts are between it and the turbo, which means yanking the turbo too. I'm taking it that it isn't possible to remove it all with the bevel gear still on? I've been plugging away at it today. I have most everything in the engine compartment off, now I have to tackle the axles next. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted August 21, 2010 Report Share Posted August 21, 2010 Yeah you could pull the turbo or with a swivel and extension you can get the top bolts. Or you can try and take the coupler off the BG but that's a PITA without a impact gun also with it in the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doityourselfer Posted August 24, 2010 Report Share Posted August 24, 2010 I posted this very same question a few days ago and everyone said do it out the top. just u need a leveling device cuz u gotta clear the brake booster and other stuff over there. u gotta tilt it 30 degrees. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted August 24, 2010 Report Share Posted August 24, 2010 A chain with a bolt through it works to give it an angle. But it can't be long on a cherry picker or you won't clear the rad support. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigdaddylee82 Posted August 24, 2010 Report Share Posted August 24, 2010 I've only done it once, and studied it a long time before actually doing it, and decided to drop everything out of the bottom still attached to the sub frame. I couldn't tell you which way is easier but I don't have a lift, I do have a cherry picker and a floor jack, and still dropped everything out of the bottom. If you've got room in your garage/shop you've only got to get the car high enough that the engine can slide out the wheel well. There's 8 bolts holding the sub-frame (my experience is on a '95 850), 4 bolts on the struts, two nuts on the sway bar end-links, shifter cables, brake lines, fuel lines, a dozen or so grounds/weather pack connections, and the steering shaft, exhaust manifold and/or down pipe, and that's pretty much all there is to remove. I raised my car up on jack stands, and lowered the assembly with the cherry picker. I then drug it out the wheel well with a come-along. Putting it back in was just the opposite. The only just difficult part I had was lining the splines on the steering shaft and steering rack back up. Having an extra set of hands around is "handy." Having the whole assembly on the cradle, I never messed with the transmission, it stayed mounted, and I never removed the CV axles, just the engine block bracket for the carrier bearing on the longer passenger side axle. - Lee Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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