NataSS Inc Posted September 8, 2010 Report Share Posted September 8, 2010 Well, finally figured out what was causing the over heating issue with my '97. The head gasket is wasted. Turn Key Auto on airport road did a hydro carbon test and sure enough it was possitive. Well they want 1500.00 and Sanburg Volvo wants 1900+/-. i dont have that kind of coin so it looks like I am doing it on my own. Is there somewhere on the site that has a walk though on how to do a head gasket swap? Any help appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zappo Posted September 8, 2010 Report Share Posted September 8, 2010 Volvo uses a special tool to do it. It isn't all that difficult, but it is possible to destroy the head if you get it wrong. The reason is the cam cover is also the upper part of the cam bearing holders. It needs to come off straight or you end up breaking the cover. The head and the cover are a matched set, so if the cover is toast, so is the head. I have seen it done without the tool; you just have to go slow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AverageVolvo Posted September 8, 2010 Report Share Posted September 8, 2010 PER VADIS INSTRUCTIONS> Replacing cylinder head gasket Special tools: 951 2050 , 999 5199 , 999 5449 , 999 5451 , 999 5452 , 999 5453 , 999 5454 , 999 5509 , 999 5533 , 999 5670 Drain off the coolant and remove the front exhaust pipe Disconnect battery negative lead. Remove the expansion tank cap. Remove the engine splash guard. Open the nipples on the engine and radiator. Use hoses to lead off coolant. Close the nipples. Remove manifold/front exhaust pipe nuts. Remove the exhaust manifold and the fuel rail Remove -the exhaust manifold, according to operation Check/replacing exhaust system . -the belt transmission, according to operation Replacing timing belt . Lift up and put the fuel rail with injectors to one side. Use protractor 999 5533 , for injectors. Remove the two ground strips from the engine. Caution! Take care not to damage injector nozzles and fuel needles. Remove: -the engine cooling fan (FC) and the intake manifold. -the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing -the camshaft pulleys, use counterhold999 5199 , mark up the pulleys (intake/exhaust) -the inner timing cover screw Remove rear components: -the air cleaner (ACL) housing with hoses -the camshaft position (CMP) sensor with trigger wheel -the distributor cap with wiring and rotor -the torque control arm with brackets Remove the upper half of the cylinder head Install tool 999 5453 (4 valve engine) or 999 5508 (2–valve engine) to secure the front edge of the camshafts. Install tool 999 5454 to the camshaft housing cover allowing a few mm play. Slacken off the screws (from outside and in) from the upper half, remove all screws. Disconnect the camshaft cover at the stop lugs with tool 999 5670 . Start with cylinder 1 and work alternately backward. Open and remove tools 999 5454 step for step so that parallel movement is ensured when removing the camshaft housing cover. Mark up and remove the camshafts. Remove the cylinder head Remove the two coolant pipe screws. Slacken off the cylinder head screws (work from the outside in). Remove cylinder head. Remove cylinder head gasket. Clean: -the exhaust joints exhaust manifold/cylinder head -the cylinder block gasket face -the coolant pipe gasket face -the gasket face between the upper and lower cylinder head halves Caution! Do not use a metal scraper. Use a soft putty knife and if necessary gasket solvent, P/N 1 161 340-3. The surfaces must be completeley clean for them to seal. When using gasket solvent a fume hood or extractor must be used. Align the crankshaft as marked Remove the starter motor. Remove the blind cover plug. Install camshaft adjustment tool 999 5451 . Turn the crankshaft counter-clockwise until it stops. Install the lower cylinder head half Install the new cylinder head gasket Lubricate the screws. Tighten the screws in three stages from the middle and working out according to: 1. 20 Nm 2. 60 Nm 3. 130°, use bevel protractor 951 2050 Install the coolant pipe with a new gasket. Install new O-rings around the spark plug wells. Remove spark plugs 1 and 5. Apply liquid gasket Apply liquid gasket P/N 1 161 059-9 to the upper half of the cylinder head using a short-bristle roller. Caution! Ensure that no gasket compound falls into the oilways. A thin layer is enough to form a seal. Install the camshafts. Secure the front of the camshafts using holder 999 5453 and the rear using camshaft adjustment tool 999 5452 (without extensions). Install the upper half of the cylinder head Position the upper half. Pull down onto cylinder head using press tool 999 5454 (two). Install the upper section from the inside and outside. Tighten to 17 Nm. Remove camshaft adjustment tool (999 5453 ) and tool (999 5454 ) Install the front camshaft seals Use drift999 5449 . Grease the seal. Tap in the seal. The later version of drift 999 5449 is made of plastic. Install the camshaft pulleys Position the upper timing cover Install the camshaft pulleys, align according to marking. Tighten the two screws until they just come into contact with the camshaft pulleys. Lift out the upper timing cover. Note! Check that the camshaft screw holes are centered, see illustration. Adjusting the mechanical belt tensioner If a mechanical belt tensioner is being used, adjust according to Adjusting the mechanical belt tensioner . Install the camshaft belt Install the tensioner damping unit. Tighten to 25 Nm. Place the belt over the camshaft pulley, around the coolant pump and press the belt over the tensioner pulley. Slacken off the two camshaft pulley screws. Pull the lock pin out of the tensioner/damping unit. Press hard or knock the belt twice in the direction of arrow (1) and twice in the direction of arrow (2) using a plastic mallet. Tighten the camshaft pulleys Install the third screw and tighten the screws to 20 Nm. Install the inner timing cover screw. Install the timing cover. Remove the holding tools Remove camshaft adjustment tool (999 5451 ) and install blind cover plug Install the starter motor. Remove the camshaft adjustment tool (999 5452 ). Check the markings Turn the engine crankshaft two turns. Check that markings on the crankshaft and the timing gear pulley correspond. Install the outer timing cover. Install the rear camshaft seal 4– valve engines: Use drift 999 5450 . 2– valve engines: Use drift 999 5509 . Grease the seal. Press in the seal. Hint: Normally the seal is positioned flush with the internal bevel edge. If there are grooves on the shaft journal the seal can be pressed in a further 2 mm by reversing the sleeve. Install: -the torque control arm, with the brackets -the rotor with holder -the camshaft position (CMP) sensor with trigger wheel -the spark plugs -the distributor cap and ignition cables -the air cleaner (ACL) housing with all hoses and connectors Install: -the exhaust manifold according to operation Check/replacing exhaust system -the intake manifold and engine cooling fan (FC) according to operation Replacing intake manifold -the fuel rail -the ground strip on the engine -the exhaust pipe -the splashguard under the engine Top up coolant/Change oil and oil filter Install battery negative lead Top up with oil. Oil capacity including filter4.75 liters excluding filter4.25 liters Fill the cooling system. Run the engine until the thermostat opens and top up if necessary. Check for leaks. Description of cylinder head B5254, B5204 The cylinder head delivered by VCAS have a number of outlets which were not present on earlier models, this is to accommodate a number of variants and model years. The outlet are for crankcase ventilation and the air pump. When the cylinder head is used for the 1992 and 1993 model years the crankcase ventilation outlets must be sealed. A kit containing crankcase ventilation and other components required for adapting to earlier cars can be ordered and has the P/N 271869-0. The modified crankcase ventilation is only adapted for early cars with engine serial numbers lower than the following: Engine P/NEngine typeTransmission typeAir conditioning (A/C) typeEngine serial number 1289896B5254ManualM AC27773 1289894B5254ManualU AC27713 1289897B5254AutomaticM AC27834 1289895B5254AutomaticU AC27743 B5204AllAll34313 Engine P/N and engine type are stamped in the right side of the engine block. There is also a decal on the timing cover with engine type, part number and serial number. Air pump outlets which are not opposite each other do not need correcting A prepared cylinder head is available to order for variants which use the air pump. Description of cylinder head B5254, B5204 Cylinder head with outlet for crankcase ventilation (A) and air pump (B. To adjust the cylinder head with crankcase ventilation for model years 1992 and 1993 the crankcase ventilation outlet should be sealed but the hole for the air pump should not be remedied (. Tap and thread the hole internally with M14x1.5 Install plug P/N 960630-2 and gasket 11966-6. Thread sealant, P/N 1161056-5, should be used as the seal. The sealing should be carried out before installing the cylinder head in order to remove swarf from the threading more easily. The ignition lead set should be exchanged for the later version (P/N 91135700-4) when replacing the cylinder head. Installing modified crankcase ventilation There is modified crankcase ventilation with P/N 271869-0 which can be connected to the cylinder head for the 1992 and 1993 model year. (see upper illustration) The cylinder block mounting is of the early type. The hose connectors to the cylinder head and intake are of the later version. ALSO not mentioned. 6 pack of your choice. B) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cal3thousand Posted September 8, 2010 Report Share Posted September 8, 2010 I didn't use any special tools from Volvo... although I did fashion a cam holder out of an angle iron to keep the cams in place when removing the upper cover. Make sure to loosen the bolts in a patient and even manner (ie. don't remove one bolt at a time, loosen a bit and move around to the next) so that it comes off evenly. I loosened them all about a centimeter or so, then used a 3/4" drive ratchet (the square end) to pry the cover off slowly. I have a 85% complete write up somewhere, if you PM me, I will search my vault for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted September 9, 2010 Report Share Posted September 9, 2010 No special tools needed. As for the cam cover, I take all the bolts out, wack it with a big rubber mallet to break the seal then start wiggling it up. Just as long as you don't get one side a lot higher then the other it's fine. Just don't force it on the high side. You don't need a cam holder either. As for the 130 degree turn, make a compass cut out, have someone hold it and turn from 0 to 130. Done! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 VII 7 Posted September 9, 2010 Report Share Posted September 9, 2010 Holy crap $1500 is a STEAL! Around here you cant find a place to do it for less than $2800! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted September 9, 2010 Report Share Posted September 9, 2010 I had a guy tell me today that he was quoted $1000 for a HG job. I told him I would do it for $500 plus parts since heck it's a quick for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s_moneh Posted September 9, 2010 Report Share Posted September 9, 2010 http://www.volvoforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44879 full picture walk through :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 VII 7 Posted September 10, 2010 Report Share Posted September 10, 2010 http://www.volvoforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44879 full picture walk through This is awesome! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cal3thousand Posted September 10, 2010 Report Share Posted September 10, 2010 This is awesome! agreed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gilhuly Posted September 11, 2010 Report Share Posted September 11, 2010 It is an excellent write up and as one of the posters on that site noted, this guy would be very good at writing a Haynes manual. However, he's not much for identifying available shortcuts or time saving techniques. I've never taken off a camshaft sprocket or a harmonic balancer so I don't have to worry about the starter etc. Still, an excellent reference piece. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Falcone Posted September 12, 2010 Report Share Posted September 12, 2010 I just did mine, in my back yard, no special tools, just a standard 3/8ths socket set and a torque wrench. Took me a day in a half. If you need some pointers, feel free to pm me. Just get to it, its like any other hg job, take your time and use your head, and don't re-use head bolts. This is why I did mine, this oil was 200kms old. When I popped the head off, the third cylinder had over 500mls of water in it and this was my god damn work shop. runs like a mo-fcking champ now, new cams and rods as well. It was just shy of 500 bux with all the parts. Totally worth doing yourself. If you need more pics, I can pm them to you. Good luck, its really not as hard as people make it out to be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted September 12, 2010 Report Share Posted September 12, 2010 Your fine reusing head bolts again.... just don't reuse them three times. Falcone: How the heck did your main and rod bearings survive that mess? luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Falcone Posted September 12, 2010 Report Share Posted September 12, 2010 Big time luck. The funny part of it all was, the car ran absolutly fine, even with water spraying out my exhaust pipe on full revs, never overheaed. It just covered the plugs once in while, resulting in massivemisfires. It was funny sh!t. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
7 VII 7 Posted September 13, 2010 Report Share Posted September 13, 2010 Your fine reusing head bolts again.... just don't reuse them three times. Falcone: How the heck did your main and rod bearings survive that mess? luck! Why not get new head bolts if they are so cheap from the dealer? Also why did the write up say to use copper spray? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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