Cal3thousand Posted October 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2010 Binglax sort of mentioned the same in my thread - and I do believe he's speaking out of experience having done it in different ways. In my case, logistics dictate I do it via subframe drop, and it was not as bad as I thought it would be. It was my first time doing this, and the only thing I managed to break was the front O2 sensor which I neglected to disconnect. Aside from me, I know Vagabond and Ozark Lee did it recently via subframe drop method. My thread: http://volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php/topic/137657-98-glt-s70-trans-swap/page__p__1838711__hl__logistics__fromsearch__1#entry1838711 How long did it take you? I ask that trying to judge the benefits. I mean I have a cherry picker already and I've done it out the top before. Out the side, you don't have to mess with the turbo nor the serp belt? How were the challenges of getting the tranny out to work on it? Agreed I did one out the side and F that . Get two jackstands and a lift and go at it . So you saying I won't save time and effort going out the side? Just want to be clear as everyone's inputs are going toward my decision tonight as I "sleep on it". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdlc Posted October 2, 2010 Report Share Posted October 2, 2010 How long did it take you? I ask that trying to judge the benefits. I mean I have a cherry picker already and I've done it out the top before. Out the side, you don't have to mess with the turbo nor the serp belt? How were the challenges of getting the tranny out to work on it? 14-16 hours. I didn't care about the tranny I removed so I beat the crap out of it to disengage it from the engine - even after removing the bolts, the guide pins were holding them together still. If you should do it this way, you'll need the accessory for your picker that would allow you tilt the engine in angle (you'll need to lower the driver side). Also, we used a pair of 2" x 4" x 8' to catch the tranny during removal (also helped in wiggling it do dislodge while beating the crap out of the tranny on the space/spot where the starter was) and lift the tranny during installation as the tranny+TC is kind of heavy. Each of one of the ends of the 2x8 are on the ground while the others end are held by a helper, with the tranny as the load. If you're to use the tranny, you'll need a big prying tool while wiggling the tranny free. Make sure to count the bolts you'll remove so as not to forget to remove any of them. Whatever way you decide to do it: Don't rush. I suggest doing it in at least three sessions: 1 prep (removal of arms, axles, down-pipe, front o2 sensor, etc) 2) tranny removal and re-install 3) putting everything back together 1 & 3 I did in several mini-sessions after work. GL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cal3thousand Posted October 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2010 Update: Took a whole day, but me and another buddy pulled the motor, put it back together (the right way ), and then reinstalled the engine. she cranks as expected, but after priming the motor with oil and reinstalling the FP relay, it won't start. I fixed and leaky injector seal and tried again... no luck. I'm thinking that the plugs and cap/rotor are in bad enough condition to not start. After work today, I will replace and/or clean the ignition parts and retry. side note: AJ and Justin were right... at least in my case. If I had tried the "out the side" method, it would have been ugly. Installing the TC perfectly in the Tranny was a bitch already.... can't imagine doing that with the limited room available when dropping it out the side. Mad props to Orlando for accomplishing that one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdlc Posted October 4, 2010 Report Share Posted October 4, 2010 Update: Took a whole day, but me and another buddy pulled the motor, put it back together (the right way ), and then reinstalled the engine. she cranks as expected, but after priming the motor with oil and reinstalling the FP relay, it won't start. I fixed and leaky injector seal and tried again... no luck. I'm thinking that the plugs and cap/rotor are in bad enough condition to not start. After work today, I will replace and/or clean the ignition parts and retry. side note: AJ and Justin were right... at least in my case. If I had tried the "out the side" method, it would have been ugly. Installing the TC perfectly in the Tranny was a bitch already.... can't imagine doing that with the limited room available when dropping it out the side. Mad props to Orlando for accomplishing that one. Glad to hear it's going well. I guess I got lucky I got it right the first time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bronzfinga22 Posted October 4, 2010 Report Share Posted October 4, 2010 Hey Cal, if there is any work you still gotta do and need an extra hand, pm me. I aint got experience to offer, jus lookin for a op to volunteer some time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cal3thousand Posted October 4, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2010 Hey Cal, if there is any work you still gotta do and need an extra hand, pm me. I aint got experience to offer, jus lookin for a op to volunteer some time. Damn... coulda used a bunch of extra hands this weekend But I'm always open to gaining some local (to semi-local) wrench buddies. Funny thing, last week all my work was being done not too far from Walnut (in Covina). If you want to gain some experience, I'll hit you up before I do my projects. I'm going to replace my A/C receiver drier very soon as well as tie-rod ends and sway bar end links. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reximus Posted October 5, 2010 Report Share Posted October 5, 2010 Update: Took a whole day, but me and another buddy pulled the motor, put it back together (the right way ), and then reinstalled the engine. she cranks as expected, but after priming the motor with oil and reinstalling the FP relay, it won't start. I fixed and leaky injector seal and tried again... no luck. I'm thinking that the plugs and cap/rotor are in bad enough condition to not start. After work today, I will replace and/or clean the ignition parts and retry. side note: AJ and Justin were right... at least in my case. If I had tried the "out the side" method, it would have been ugly. Installing the TC perfectly in the Tranny was a oh yeah! already.... can't imagine doing that with the limited room available when dropping it out the side. Mad props to Orlando for accomplishing that one. double check your connections, see if every thing is plugged in.. and plus you might have to turn the key on and off at least 5 times to prim the fuel system enough to get it started properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cal3thousand Posted October 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2010 double check your connections, see if every thing is plugged in.. and plus you might have to turn the key on and off at least 5 times to prim the fuel system enough to get it started properly. Everything is plugged... I mean... it cranks dude. And yes, I did prime the fuel system after fixing that unholy injector seal. It's just not sparking... As soon as I get home and have some food I'm going back out and finishing this damn thing for once. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reximus Posted October 5, 2010 Report Share Posted October 5, 2010 Everything is plugged... I mean... it cranks dude. And yes, I did prime the fuel system after fixing that unholy injector seal. It's just not sparking... As soon as I get home and have some food I'm going back out and finishing this damn thing for once. it may sound stupid, but does the check engine light turn on when you first turn the key to on position? (bulb check) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cal3thousand Posted October 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2010 it may sound stupid, but does the check engine light turn on when you first turn the key to on position? (bulb check) Yes... of course it does. I don't think it will crank if it doesn't. It goes on... then during cranking turns off. The engine turns but just doesn't catch a spark. I have a back up set of known working ignition parts that I will test on in a few hours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted October 5, 2010 Report Share Posted October 5, 2010 Good call, I had this issue After a swap. Noticed no CEL on pos. II and realized I had a bad ground for the ECU. This was on a 99+ as they have a weird grounding point under the pass. Headlight assy. So yeah check that haha Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reximus Posted October 5, 2010 Report Share Posted October 5, 2010 Yes... of course it does. I don't think it will crank if it doesn't. It goes on... then during cranking turns off. The engine turns but just doesn't catch a spark. I have a back up set of known working ignition parts that I will test on in a few hours. well, engine can crank even when check engine light doesn't turn on... starting circuit is pretty much completely different circuit than the engine computerized control circuit. you remember the days when there is only carburetor on an engine? starting/charging system is the only electrical system on that engine. and those two systems are still separate from engine control even on majority of the cars on the road today. so i am not making false claims here that even if engine turns when crank, doesn't mean everything is connected or working properly... just thought i make my point here. i didn't get my license by fluke :lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
(n)A-GAME Posted October 5, 2010 Report Share Posted October 5, 2010 Did you try replacing the coil and/or CPS? Could be the cause of your no-spark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted October 5, 2010 Report Share Posted October 5, 2010 Lots of little things that it could be but probably not cap/rotor wires or plug as you would get something even if those were shot. I think your more looking at something simple that you missed. Prob nothing major unless it wasn't running in the foray place? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cal3thousand Posted October 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2010 Lots of little things that it could be but probably not cap/rotor wires or plug as you would get something even if those were shot. I think your more looking at something simple that you missed. Prob nothing major unless it wasn't running in the foray place? Car was running great until I overheated. Now, post swap... I'm thinking the battery is just too weak. I just doesn't crank strong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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