Cal3thousand Posted October 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 Have you done basic verification of spark and fuel? Are you getting spark at the plugs? It sounds like you may need to do some boring, basic diagnostics. After air, spark and fuel, verify physically that timing is correct. Good luck with this. You'll get it figured out. There's fuel at the rail. I haven't checked spark at the plugs, but it does spark at the coil. I looked at the electrode that the coil wire attaches to on the distributor cap and it was green like the Statue of Liberty. I will dig out my other cap and plugs and retest. Question though: If I am getting spark at the coil wire, by default, doesn't that mean all my sensors connections are proper? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reximus Posted October 8, 2010 Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 There's fuel at the rail. I haven't checked spark at the plugs, but it does spark at the coil. I looked at the electrode that the coil wire attaches to on the distributor cap and it was green like the Statue of Liberty. I will dig out my other cap and plugs and retest. Question though: If I am getting spark at the coil wire, by default, doesn't that mean all my sensors connections are proper? usually... but what about at the spark plug cable tip? might sound stupid, but are the spark plug cables connected in the right sequence and right post? i will try to post up a pic for reference where they should be plugged to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cal3thousand Posted October 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 usually... but what about at the spark plug cable tip? might sound stupid, but are the spark plug cables connected in the right sequence and right post? i will try to post up a pic for reference where they should be plugged to. I can triple check... when I pull them off, I leave them attached to the D Cap... and besides...its pretty obvious if you have the wrong ones switched as they are all different lengths. I won't rule it out though. I'll know more tonight after I go home, nap and then work on the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reximus Posted October 9, 2010 Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 I can triple check... when I pull them off, I leave them attached to the D Cap... and besides...its pretty obvious if you have the wrong ones switched as they are all different lengths. I won't rule it out though. I'll know more tonight after I go home, nap and then work on the car. oh you reminds me of when i was working on my first car when i was 15... 1984 toyota celica... that was the first time i did a manual swap i couldn't be happier after those three days of hard work. those never ending after school activities up till 1 am, then off to school again the next morning.... back from school, supper, then work on car :lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghost Shadow Posted October 9, 2010 Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 pull the plugs and see if they are fouled out. i'd change them out for good measure. check to see if you are getting fuel smell out of the tail pipe. this would mean the car is getting fuel just something with the ignition system. make sure all your fuses are good just in case. btw- i pulled my AWD xc70 tranny/engine out 3 times. first time out the top sencond i dropped the subframe, third out the top. never again out the bottom! especially when using jack stands. trying to get the tranny in was nuts. its a circus! lol. justin saved my ass when i was putting in the torque converter. NOTE: PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE MAKE SURE YOU LOCTITE THE CONVERTER BOLTS OR USE NEW ONES! they will back out eventually without loctite. thats why my engine/tanny came out 3 times. 1st because old engine had bad H/G, 2nd because the bolts came out and destroyed the torque converter. i was being cheap and hoped for the best that it didnt fubar the tranny(it did), 3rd time i did it right (20k on the swap since) my swap had a no start too due to bad ground but mine was a 99+ goodluck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdlc Posted October 9, 2010 Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 pull the plugs and see if they are fouled out. i'd change them out for good measure. check to see if you are getting fuel smell out of the tail pipe. this would mean the car is getting fuel just something with the ignition system. make sure all your fuses are good just in case. btw- i pulled my AWD xc70 tranny/engine out 3 times. first time out the top sencond i dropped the subframe, third out the top. never again out the bottom! especially when using jack stands. trying to get the tranny in was nuts. its a circus! lol. justin saved my ass when i was putting in the torque converter. NOTE: PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE MAKE SURE YOU LOCTITE THE CONVERTER BOLTS OR USE NEW ONES! they will back out eventually without loctite. thats why my engine/tanny came out 3 times. 1st because old engine had bad H/G, 2nd because the bolts came out and destroyed the torque converter. i was being cheap and hoped for the best that it didnt fubar the tranny(it did), 3rd time i did it right (20k on the swap since) my swap had a no start too due to bad ground but mine was a 99+ goodluck! I re-usedl the TC torx bolts when I replaced the tranny on my GLT, as well as the flywheel bolts. I did use loctite, and tighten them up like there's no tomorrow because I felt the torque specs is insufficient. I guess my paranoia about the bolt coming out is not unwarranted after all : ). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cal3thousand Posted October 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2010 UPDATE: Last night: The new starter cranks the engine with good speed, but it doesn't catch. I then changed the plugs, and it now it cranks and just when you think it should fire, it "clunks". I can't tell what the sound is... I think it could be (hopefully) the fan and injection relays slapping shroud as the engine rocks. (No bolt in the top mount yet) Today: Went to the JY and picked up a shroud piece to fix the relay situation. Tomorrow: I'll install the piece along with the top mount bolt and another crank sensor. Q: Should I reprime the engine? or is all the cranking lubing it up? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghost Shadow Posted October 10, 2010 Report Share Posted October 10, 2010 did you clear out all the fuel before you started the car again after the new plugs? doesnt matter if you changed the plugs if there is still too much fuel in the cylinders. go find the fuel pump fuse, pull it crank the car a few times to clear out the old fuel. this will make the car spark and dump out all the old fuel without adding more fuel. also is there fuel smell coming out of the exhaust? did you reattach the fuel lines? is there fuel in the car? these are stupid questions but it needs to be asked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reximus Posted October 10, 2010 Report Share Posted October 10, 2010 UPDATE: Last night: The new starter cranks the engine with good speed, but it doesn't catch. I then changed the plugs, and it now it cranks and just when you think it should fire, it "clunks". I can't tell what the sound is... I think it could be (hopefully) the fan and injection relays slapping shroud as the engine rocks. (No bolt in the top mount yet) Today: Went to the JY and picked up a shroud piece to fix the relay situation. Tomorrow: I'll install the piece along with the top mount bolt and another crank sensor. Q: Should I reprime the engine? or is all the cranking lubing it up? sorry if i'm asking this too many times... but here is the diagram for you to quadruple check... http://volvospeed.co.../sparkplugs.php the only time when i hear clunk while cranking is either i've connected the spark plug wire on the wrong post (where it fires at intake stroke) or too much fuel caused backfire of the intake. cheers! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cal3thousand Posted October 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 10, 2010 did you clear out all the fuel before you started the car again after the new plugs? doesnt matter if you changed the plugs if there is still too much fuel in the cylinders. go find the fuel pump fuse, pull it crank the car a few times to clear out the old fuel. this will make the car spark and dump out all the old fuel without adding more fuel. also is there fuel smell coming out of the exhaust? did you reattach the fuel lines? is there fuel in the car? these are stupid questions but it needs to be asked. No I didn't... but I changed the spark plugs the next day... so I presume any fuel in there vaporized by then... I'll try it without the FP relay. I'm thinking I need to get a battery charger/jumper for all this cranking. Another side thought... I had the fuel lines detached from the engine for a bit and I don't remember sealing them up... Do you think I might have gotten enough condensation in there to waterlog the fuel? (I'm going to the parts store to get some Heet) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n00bkiller944 Posted October 12, 2010 Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 Any update on this? I am interested to see how this all pans out. And I doubt you need to mess with the "heet" it is extremely unlikely that enough water got in there to cause a problem. And even with bad gas it should fire just fine. As others have mentioned I recommend you double check to make sure you are actually getting spark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cal3thousand Posted October 13, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 13, 2010 Any update on this? I am interested to see how this all pans out. And I doubt you need to mess with the "heet" it is extremely unlikely that enough water got in there to cause a problem. And even with bad gas it should fire just fine. As others have mentioned I recommend you double check to make sure you are actually getting spark. Thanks for the advice and interest. I have since determined that my ignition system was killed by the busted starter. The coil wire didn't register any connection when I hooked up the Ohmmeter so it must have gotten fried as well. And if the wire is dead, I imagine the coil is dead. Now that I think of it, when I had the bad coil wire lined up next to the strut tower, I didn't see a spark, but I did get shocked. The coil must have been blasting current everywhere except through the coil. So I have another coil on the way (tomorrow from LA Volvo), I have changed the plugs, and I have tested the wires and cap... So another update will be ready tomorrow night after work if she fires up! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cal3thousand Posted October 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2010 :( ...... This weekend, I installed the new cap and coil wire and cleaned up my ground connections again. I was 100% sure everything was in order and tried to fire it up... it tried to start and made a clunk again. Frustrated, I took a day to ponder my situation and made a grave discovery. Compression, spark, fuel.... The ONLY thing left was left was timing. Valve timing was not touched and I replaced the crankshaft sensor. Then it came back to me... the very first time the motor was swapped, flexplate was removed and reinstalled (not by me) without regard to its position and I didn't realize it until talking to the person this weekend. NEW QUESTION in my fiasco: How do I line up the flexplate with the crankshaft when I take the engine out again this weekend? Chilton's doesn't even mention marking the flexplate and Haynes says mark it before removal. No help in my particular case. Any engine builders wanna chime in? And no, I don't have enough cash to throw in a Manual right now (totally wish I'd had done it the first time). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted October 18, 2010 Report Share Posted October 18, 2010 Flex plate doesn't matter..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cal3thousand Posted October 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 18, 2010 Flex plate doesn't matter..... How does the engine know the crankshaft position if it's orientation doesn't matter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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