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Engine Swap Woes


Cal3thousand

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It only goes on one way..

Check your timing marks.

It only goes on one way? really?

Timing belt was untouched from LKQ, but I will double check tonight.

But if the flywheel only goes on one way, I'm at a loss. (What prevents it from going on wrong? I have another flywheel and I can't see what would stop it from going on wrong)

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Keyed...

If it was on wrong the crank sensor would take out spark or injector pulse (never can remember which)

But how does it know to take out spark unless the signal is completely missing?

The signal for the crank sensor is there... its just at the wrong spot. (that's my theory)

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There is no way to install it wrong..

Did you notice if the TC bolts had a weldedon riser on the flex plate?

What do the TC bolts have to do with it?

Just to be clear... I'm referring to the flexplate to crankshaft connection where the RMS hides.... the ones that connect with 12-point... not Torx.

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:( ......

This weekend, I installed the new cap and coil wire and cleaned up my ground connections again. I was 100% sure everything was in order and tried to fire it up... it tried to start and made a clunk again. Frustrated, I took a day to ponder my situation and made a grave discovery. Compression, spark, fuel.... The ONLY thing left was left was timing. Valve timing was not touched and I replaced the crankshaft sensor. Then it came back to me...

the very first time the motor was swapped, flexplate was removed and reinstalled (not by me) without regard to its position and I didn't realize it until talking to the person this weekend. :angry:

NEW QUESTION in my fiasco:

How do I line up the flexplate with the crankshaft when I take the engine out again this weekend? Chilton's doesn't even mention marking the flexplate and Haynes says mark it before removal. No help in my particular case. Any engine builders wanna chime in?

And no, I don't have enough cash to throw in a Manual right now (totally wish I'd had done it the first time).

Check this ebay post : 110388160283 - it has a good picture of a Volvo flexplate showing where the guide pin goes (I know the ad says 2000, but I remember it was foolproof when I replaced the RMS on my 98S70GLT).

Is it diff in your spare 850 flex plate? I don't know if it's possible at all, but it's unlikely you have it flipped, it would be too obvious.

If you can crank it manually from the front end of the engine using socket wrench and extension, you're problem is something else.

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This is jut a random thought, but I wanted to throw it out there. I'm assuming that you've already covered the basics and know you're getting fuel pressure and spark at all five cylinders.

The rear of the intake cam has a metal plate that fits into the groove at the back of the cam and determines the alignment of the distributor, which in turn determines the timing of each spark. This metal plate has a couple of little protrusions which are necessary to align it. I've seen them get worn down so much that the plate can go in with any alignment. This will definitely prevent the engine from starting since the spark timing will be all messed up.

Just a thought, but it happened to me after a swap and caused some confusion.

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Check this ebay post : 110388160283 - it has a good picture of a Volvo flexplate showing where the guide pin goes (I know the ad says 2000, but I remember it was foolproof when I replaced the RMS on my 98S70GLT).

Is it diff in your spare 850 flex plate? I don't know if it's possible at all, but it's unlikely you have it flipped, it would be too obvious.

If you can crank it manually from the front end of the engine using socket wrench and extension, you're problem is something else.

Ok... i see the hole for the guide pin on the eBay listing... I'll have to go home and check my flexplate.

And yes, I can crank it by hand. The engine will crank fine... but when I expect it to fire, I hear a clunk. If this isn't the problem, the only other thing I can think of are the injectors.

So if I can crank the engine by hand, I should put to rest the notion that it may have been assembled incorrectly?

(this would make me feel better about things)

This is jut a random thought, but I wanted to throw it out there. I'm assuming that you've already covered the basics and know you're getting fuel pressure and spark at all five cylinders.

The rear of the intake cam has a metal plate that fits into the groove at the back of the cam and determines the alignment of the distributor, which in turn determines the timing of each spark. This metal plate has a couple of little protrusions which are necessary to align it. I've seen them get worn down so much that the plate can go in with any alignment. This will definitely prevent the engine from starting since the spark timing will be all messed up.

Just a thought, but it happened to me after a swap and caused some confusion.

I didn't mess with the intake cam, but I will go ahead and check it and change the seal out tonight.

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Also, have the gears ever been removed from the cams? If so are you sure they went back on correctly? If you have fuel, compression and spark as you state I agree with you that there is probably something wrong with the timing...

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Way do you mean clunk?

It's hard to explain... but its not the normal no spark type of no start... I'll try to get a video tonight.

Also, have the gears ever been removed from the cams? If so are you sure they went back on correctly? If you have fuel, compression and spark as you state I agree with you that there is probably something wrong with the timing...

Cam gears never touched.... Nothing touched involved with Cam/valve timing.

Did you check for injector pulse? Just because there is pressure at the rail dormant mean the injectors have pulse.

It sounds like they click... but no... I do not have 100% certainty that they are pulsing... What should I do to check?

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Idono how to check injector pulse without the proper test light but it sounds like you have no fuel going through the injectors. Whatever disables the injectors that's probably it..

You could take the injectors/rail off and see if it makes a mess when you crank! That would be the down and dirty way...

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