Matty Moo Posted October 1, 2010 Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 Never replaced one before, but since it's open I'm doing it regardless. Problem is, I can't figure out how it's supposed to come out without scratching anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chilled man Posted October 1, 2010 Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 I use a pointy screw driver and pry it out gently Granted I use that same screw driver to put the new ones in also :lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matty Moo Posted October 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 I use a pointy screw driver and pry it out gently Granted I use that same screw driver to put the new ones in also Tits. I have loads of small pointy screwdrivers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matty Moo Posted October 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 Since I'm allowed to jack my own thread. All I have left to do it put the tranny back on. Sooo.... The torque converter is off. I'm not keen on trannys, at least the kind in a car. Do I drain the torque converter before I put it back on, or just do a flush and fill when I get evertything back in? Fluid is dark, but not burnt. AND, what about re-using the tc bolts and flex plate bolts? No or yes? Loc-tite on those? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reximus Posted October 1, 2010 Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 Since I'm allowed to jack my own thread. All I have left to do it put the tranny back on. Sooo.... The torque converter is off. I'm not keen on trannys, at least the kind in a car. Do I drain the torque converter before I put it back on, or just do a flush and fill when I get evertything back in? Fluid is dark, but not burnt. AND, what about re-using the tc bolts and flex plate bolts? No or yes? Loc-tite on those? if while you have the torque converter off, it was well covered so no dirt would get into it, then i would just install it right back on to the transmission. remember to engage all the splines inside the input shaft on transmission. as far as flex plate to crank bolts, they have loc-tite on them which is also act as sealant. and flex plate to torque converter? IIRC it's just bolted right on with proper torque. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
855 Posted October 1, 2010 Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 I had my RMS replaced last week to the tune of $1,000. Wish I had the time and full know how and saved some money Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yangotang Posted October 1, 2010 Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 itty bitty pick tool, a.k.a. adam's penis. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AverageVolvo Posted October 1, 2010 Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 Lightly sand the outer edge of where the seal came out NOT the rotating part. Use 150. You can remove the Old seal as suggested with a Thin Screw driver, I have one I notched like a hook, and I lube it with Wd40 Re:The Bolts Use High Strength Loctite And torque to spec. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cn90 Posted October 1, 2010 Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 This is what my mechanic did: 1. Drill 2 pilot holes in the seal flange, taking care not to damage the sealing surfaces (crankshaft or outer surface). 2. Insert 2 sheet metal screws then pull the seal. 3. Keep the old seal for driving in NEW seal. I posted the pic recently but here it goes. Info from Honda CRV but the idea is the same. http://crxcommunity.com/viewtopic.php?t=226 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chilled man Posted October 1, 2010 Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 Since I'm allowed to jack my own thread. All I have left to do it put the tranny back on. Sooo.... The torque converter is off. I'm not keen on trannys, at least the kind in a car. Do I drain the torque converter before I put it back on, or just do a flush and fill when I get evertything back in? Fluid is dark, but not burnt. AND, what about re-using the tc bolts and flex plate bolts? No or yes? Loc-tite on those? Drain it out as much as possilbe . you can reuses the bolts and just add loc tite them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdlc Posted October 1, 2010 Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 Yeah, I re-used all the bolts using loctites. I also used the 'drill-a-hole' method to remove the RMS (this trick also worked great on front cam seals). You may want to replace the output seal of the transmission while it's out. You may know this already but worth mentioning: Install the TC to the tranny first, the back part of the TC actually touches the bell housing on mine when I rotated it - this means it's installed correctly. When you bolt the flex-plate to the TC, it will pull the TC out a bit, so it will not rub at all in the end. Haynes actually suggests to measure the distance of the TC with respect to the lip of the bell-housing, but the rubbing to the bell I mentioned would indicate you have the TC pushed-in all the way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted October 1, 2010 Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 I just tap in a screw driver and then pry it out nice and easy. idono about the sanding the block part! Also, ad oil to the seal itself! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matty Moo Posted October 1, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 You may know this already but worth mentioning: Install the TC to the tranny first, the back part of the TC actually touches the bell housing on mine when I rotated it - this means it's installed correctly. When you bolt the flex-plate to the TC, it will pull the TC out a bit, so it will not rub at all in the end. Haynes actually suggests to measure the distance of the TC with respect to the lip of the bell-housing, but the rubbing to the bell I mentioned would indicate you have the TC pushed-in all the way. Yeah, I read up on that. I'm glad I did since I've never touched a transmission before. So, I drain the TC, then put it back in and it will get filled back up when it's in? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chilled man Posted October 1, 2010 Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 Yeah, I read up on that. I'm glad I did since I've never touched a transmission before. So, I drain the TC, then put it back in and it will get filled back up when it's in? correct you will add 8 quarts of tranny fluid for a full fill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cn90 Posted October 1, 2010 Report Share Posted October 1, 2010 This is an ENGINE REMOVAL DIY, but the Flex Plate info is in Step #63: http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=28973 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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