Not Getting Enough Power To The Sub

[beewerks]

So I just replaced my old 225 watt RMS MTX sub with a 12" Rockford Fosgate P3D412 12" sub that uses 500 watts RMS. I'm using a sealed enclosure and a Pioneer two channel amp that puts out 380 watts in a bridged 4 ohm setting to power the 4 ohm sub. There is a 4 gauge wire running from the battery to a distribution block, from there I continue the 4 gauge wire to the amp for the sub, also from there goes an 8 gauge wire to a 4 channel amp for the speakers, and also connected to it is a accessory wire that powers something, but I don't know what it is. (Please see pic).

My problem is that when I start to crank up the sub, it will all of a sudden stop moving and just make a little popping sound every few seconds. Is this because the wires coming from the battery aren't big enough, or is the Pioneer amp too small? The last picture shows where I attached my ground wires from the two amps in my wagon. Is this adequate or should I scrap the paint off the black piece? Sorry for the long post, any help would be greatly appreciated!

[drin850]

sounds like you may have a bad ground.

make sure you ground is as short as possible, and the surface where its grounded should be bare metal (use sand paper to get the paint off). adding dielectric grease will also help.

[beewerks]

sounds like you may have a bad ground.

make sure you ground is as short as possible, and the surface where its grounded should be bare metal (use sand paper to get the paint off). adding dielectric grease will also help.

Okay! I'll give that a shot. My ground wires are about 2 feet long. I know that my amp can't pump the entire 500 watt RMS, but I thought 380 should at least do something. ;)

[mkc70]

P3D is a dual 4 ohm sub. No way you can make the Pioneer amp see a 4 ohm load with both coils hooked up. Trade it in for a P3D212 or buy an amp that can see a lower load.

[beewerks]

P3D is a dual 4 ohm sub. No way you can make the Pioneer amp see a 4 ohm load with both coils hooked up. Trade it in for a P3D212 or buy an amp that can see a lower load.

Not what I wanted to hear! I had a feeling though... I'm probably stuck with the sub since I got a hell of a deal on it. I've seen some class D amplifiers on Sonic Electronix for really cheap with some big watt ratings. Any difference between a class D amp and a mono amp? And if the sub takes 500 watts RMS at 4 ohms then do I need an amp that does exactly that or can I go slightly bigger?

[mkc70]

Not what I wanted to hear! I had a feeling though... I'm probably stuck with the sub since I got a hell of a deal on it. I've seen some class D amplifiers on Sonic Electronix for really cheap with some big watt ratings. Any difference between a class D amp and a mono amp? And if the sub takes 500 watts RMS at 4 ohms then do I need an amp that does exactly that or can I go slightly bigger?

Don't be a spec shopper. If the amp deal sounds too good for the wattage it probablyis a lie. Just run the Pioneer in stereo till you find better, GL.

[beewerks]

Don't be a spec shopper. If the amp deal sounds too good for the wattage it probablyis a lie. Just run the Pioneer in stereo till you find better, GL.

In stereo meaning one + & - on one channel going to one of the voice coils and the other the same? Or + & - on one channel going to their specific locations on separate coils? Sorry to be such a noob, this is my first DVC sub. I really appreciate your help though! :)

[mkc70]

First set up, one amp terminal set per coil. You want an amplifier to be capable of driving a 2 ohm load for that sub. Does not matter if it is a 1 or 2 channel so long as it can play.

[cheapwagon]

You have to take your ground down to the bare metal. Take a grinder until you see sparks then bolt it down. You can always paint over this..

EDIT I am sorry I miss this. Any updates yet?

[beewerks]

I'll try removing the paint first and then I'll try and re-route my wiring mkc70 said. I just don't want to blow anything lol!

[UnknownSoldier]

I think your sub is underpowered to be honest.What you're getting is probably clipping on the amp.Check the amp to see if you have any lights flickering when this problem is happening.Another thing you can do is simply to turn the subs gain down more than the speakers or more than it is now ATM.Also, what is the low pass setting at, is the amp tuned properly? Most audio technicians say your amps output should have at LEAST twice the RMS power handling of the speaker to get the least distortion and best sound quality.Definitely get something that is 2 ohm stable,I'd personally grab a 800-1000W monoblock,there are heaps for a decent price these days.

Hope this helps, Oli.

[beewerks]

I think your sub is underpowered to be honest.What you're getting is probably clipping on the amp.Check the amp to see if you have any lights flickering when this problem is happening.Another thing you can do is simply to turn the subs gain down more than the speakers or more than it is now ATM.Also, what is the low pass setting at, is the amp tuned properly? Most audio technicians say your amps output should have at LEAST twice the RMS power handling of the speaker to get the least distortion and best sound quality.Definitely get something that is 2 ohm stable,I'd personally grab a 800-1000W monoblock,there are heaps for a decent price these days.

Hope this helps, Oli.

Super, thanks for the tips. I remember reading somewhere that I have to have my amp's RMS power close to the sub's RMS rating or I will blow the sub out with too much power.

Any recommendations on a good brand amp?

[UnknownSoldier]

Super, thanks for the tips. I remember reading somewhere that I have to have my amp's RMS power close to the sub's RMS rating or I will blow the sub out with too much power.

Any recommendations on a good brand amp?

No problems at all mate. Not true my friend, more power is better, just need to make sure it's tuned properly, that's all. Regarding a good brand amp, you need to think about what your budget is & what size amp u can fit.Regarding an amp that will fit your budget, not really sure because I'm not in the US so I don't really know prices of stuff over there and it's really best to shop around yourself and see which has the best features etc....There's a few audiophiles on VS that should be able to give ya tips on which brand amp to choose.

[--Aaron--]

P3D is a dual 4 ohm sub. No way you can make the Pioneer amp see a 4 ohm load with both coils hooked up. Trade it in for a P3D212 or buy an amp that can see a lower load.

This is exactly what I was planning on saying when I read the original post.

Any recommendations on a good brand amp?

You already have your new subwoofer, unless you want to change that aspect of your setup then you now need to get it a matching partner.

That's how I like to do things, figure out which subs you are going to run, how much power they'll need and then comes amp shopping time.

I did a little investigating for you, it looks like you can make your sub very happy.

http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp?Q=1&I=42#results

http://www.alpine-usa.com/product/view/mrp-m500

The most important thing to take from this is that the Alpine amp is a 2 ohm stable amplifier and is capable of delivering your 500 RMS watts.

I have this exact same amplifier in my wife's Cobalt powering 2 Rockford P2D210's @ 2 ohms and it thumps those mothermonkeyers.

In regards to the wiring do a little self teaching with that article and follow the instructions on how to achieve a 2 ohm load with your sub.

You really should have a 2 ohm stable amp to properly operate that speaker.

(Get the Alpine)

[beewerks]

Thanks man! I think I'm running this wiring scheme right now, but I'll double check after work.