--Aaron-- Posted October 12, 2010 Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 Thanks man! I think I'm running this wiring scheme right now, but I'll double check after work. No problem, is your Pioneer amp 2 ohm stable? If it is only 4 ohm stable and you are wired for 2 you risk damage to the amp. Regardless, get that Alpine! It's an awesome amp, I can think of a handful of people that use/have used it and they'd back me up 100%! It matches your subwoofer's needs perfectly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beewerks Posted October 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 This is my current amp for the sub: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6825_Pioneer+GM-5100T.html It looks like it's 4 ohm only so maybe that's why it's getting so hot! :P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
--Aaron-- Posted October 12, 2010 Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 This is my current amp for the sub: http://www.sonicelec...r+GM-5100T.html It looks like it's 4 ohm only so maybe that's why it's getting so hot! monkey yeah man, I'm surprised it still works. Does it cut out after a few minutes of loud volumes? My wife's old amp that wasn't properly rated for the application would turn off and on every 5 minutes. :lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Che'_Moderator Posted October 12, 2010 Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 From your picture your ground is crap. You need to sand of the pain to bare metal at the ground then deal over it. As for udnerpowering the sub you are not. 380watts is more than enough to drive a 500 watt speaker unless its the crappiest speaker on earth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
--Aaron-- Posted October 12, 2010 Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 From your picture your ground is crap. You need to sand of the pain to bare metal at the ground then deal over it. As for udnerpowering the sub you are not. 380watts is more than enough to drive a 500 watt speaker unless its the crappiest speaker on earth. The speaker is not getting that amount of power from the amplifier. The amp is rated to do 380 @ 4 ohms. How do you get a DVC 4 ohm sub to be at a 4 ohm load? I agree the ground could be better executed but there's no way that sub's going to get what it needs from that amp. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Che'_Moderator Posted October 12, 2010 Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 You're wrong but ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
--Aaron-- Posted October 12, 2010 Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 Explain please, if the sub is rated at 500 RMS how do you properly power it with that amp? Sure, under power but that can be just as dangerous as over powering. It can either be at a 2 or 8 ohm load. The amp will not effectively support a 2 ohm load. Which leaves 8 ohm, with a 4 ohm load the amp is only going to send out 125 x 2. You do the math, what's the output wattage going to be with even more resistance? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Che'_Moderator Posted October 12, 2010 Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 Explain please, if the sub is rated at 500 RMS how do you properly power it with that amp? Sure, under power but that can be just as dangerous as over powering. It can either be at a 2 or 8 ohm load. The amp will not effectively support a 2 ohm load. Which leaves 8 ohm, with a 4 ohm load the amp is only going to send out 125 x 2. You do the math, what's the output wattage going to be with even more resistance? You need a scope to see if the amp if clipping. If your gain cross overs are set up correctly you are not going to damage the speaker. You can safely power a 10000000 watt speaker with a 1000 watt amp depending on what you expect out of it as far as SPL, volume and so on. When you turn the volume down that speaker is not getting 500watts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
--Aaron-- Posted October 12, 2010 Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 So the sub will operate with less than 125 x 2 but it's potential will not be fully taken advantage of, basically? If we can agree with that would you say that to effectively take advantage of the sub's capabilities a more suitable amp may be a better option?Edit: Better question.... Can you even take a DVC subwoofer and wire the coils in stereo? :huh: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Che'_Moderator Posted October 12, 2010 Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 So the sub will operate with less than 125 x 2 but it's potential will not be fully taken advantage of, basically? If we can agree with that would you say that to effectively take advantage of the sub's capabilities a more suitable amp may be a better option? Edit: Better question.... Can you even take a DVC subwoofer and wire the coils in stereo? I'm running a 4000watt RMS speaker off a 2200rms AMP. Its loud as fuck, and has no clipping. I'm not going to a 3rd battery just to get from 155 db to 165db. If you clamp your wires you will be surprised how little power you usually use. Well unless your hood rich and blare your music loud enough to set off alarms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
--Aaron-- Posted October 12, 2010 Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 I'm sorry but under powering does not make any sense to me, no matter how it is explained. Personally I would get a better suited amp. If you don't want a monstrously loud stereo then why use such beefy components, stereos are meant to be loud and to be able to be taken advantage of. There is no way that amp is going to take advantage of that subwoofer. The amp just does not meet the subwoofers needs. OP, I might suggest running your setup by audio professionals and see what they tell you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beewerks Posted October 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 I agree that my ground sucks and the amp is probably too small. I emailed sales at Sonic Electronix about my problem and got this response from them: Alex, You will actually need an amp that can push around 500 watts RMS at 2 ohms, since it is a Dual 4 Ohm Voice Coil sub. You don't need to be exact, but it's much better to go bigger than smaller. Something like the Kicker ZX500.1 would be perfect: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_21955_Kicker+ZX500.1+-10ZX500.1-.html I feel extra dumb today because I thought I had to have an amp that could pump 4 ohms @ 500 watts and forgot about how the DVC subs work. *facepalm* Anyway, I guess that settles that! Thanks for all your help guys, you're the best! :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drin850 Posted October 12, 2010 Report Share Posted October 12, 2010 When you turn the volume down that speaker is not getting 500watts. I'm sorry but under powering does not make any sense to me, no matter how it is explained. Personally I would get a better suited amp. Just like Chuck said, that would suggest that every sub is "underpowered" when the volume isnt up. Meaning that everytime you'd turn the volume down, you'd have the same problem beewerks is having. I'm running 170watts RMS to a 300watt RMS sub and it sounds great. I've had this setup for 5+ years with no issues Reason i said check your ground is because my neighbour ran into the same problem few weeks ago. Sub was popping and acting weird. We switched the ground to a better location and it solved the problem. It's easier to try this than buying a new amp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghost Shadow Posted October 13, 2010 Report Share Posted October 13, 2010 dont want to get into this pissing match BACK TO THE OP: You just changed out the sub, the old sub was a 4ohm sub. fine for the pioneer amp. Now you got a DVC 4 ohm sub which can be wire to 2 or 8 ohms. your sub is probably at 2ohms. Your pioneer amp doesnt like it at all because its meant to play @ 4ohm stereo. the amp is probably going into protect at higher volumes. your amp played fine before with the old sub, only thing that changed is the sub. why would the ground be bad? Solution get a better amp to run those subs capable of doing 2ohms @ 500 watts rms JL 500/1 comes to mind, Alpine PDX600.1 Kenwood XR1s ect ect Its not how loud you can play, its how well you can play loud! Yes, I drive around setting alarms off in my convertible LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
--Aaron-- Posted October 13, 2010 Report Share Posted October 13, 2010 My problem is that when I start to crank up the sub, it will all of a sudden stop moving and just make a little popping sound every few seconds. I have no idea how I skipped over the actual issue you are having, before you spend any money I'm curious how this little test turns out..... Simulate the condition where the problem is present. When the sub cuts out push the speaker into it's basket gently. Also, with the power to the sub off, if you apply pressure to the speaker can you hear a rough metal on metal sort of noise? Once upon a time, long long ago I purchased used ebay JL 12w3's. Anyhow, the voice coils separated inside. Also known as they were abused prior to and were monkeyed before I even installed them. If the sub comes on when you push the sub into it's basket I'm betting that it is blown. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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