V70 Glt To V70R Ecu Swap Problems And Obd2 Code Help

[Tom.]

I have ran my glt with both t5 and R ecus, and i can say that when we did my turbo swap it was apparent that I was running quite lean, this could be part of the issue. Also when i first swapped to the t5 ecu it did seem to run a little rougher at first, but it seemed to adjust. I would def. still keep your injector swap plan alive, especially if your upgrading to a bigger turbo as well. I cant really tell from your posts, but to what extent have you used the r ecu, have you given it time to try and adjust or no?

also copper plugs should help as well.

rex what he said ^ never seen it stall a car...

tom... you do realize that with a t5 and glt injectors we are talking about like 50cc out of 350cc difference right? that's within the 25% fuel trim limit that the computers could compensate for. but between the stock glt injector and the one lets say yours tom (greens) it's a big difference

anyways, if they are all from auto cars, then you want to make sure that the ecu is made to run with the given transmission installed in the car. with a different transmission, there will be a different tcm. if the ecu and tcm are not programed to run together, then it will show up the "up" arrow indicating there is a fault. an example of this would be 96 tcm in a 94 auto. (i did this myself once without knowing it's different) the up arrow showed up after a few minute. it's just not programmed to run together

cheers!

[GltGreco]

But the only time i ran a R ecu, the car was already warmed up completely, which may factor into it. Also have you replaced EVERYTHING along the ignition system that could cause misfire issues and the R ecu is just bringing out because it is slightly more strenuous on the system in a sense. Also what injectors are stock for a V70R (this is a 98 right?)

[95 854 t-5]

I'd guess 98 R's had whites and a 16t minimum if he is all stock Glt. he's way short on air and fuel ie 360 cfm vs 430cfm and around 80cc/min of fuel

[Tom.]

But the only time i ran a R ecu, the car was already warmed up completely, which may factor into it. Also have you replaced EVERYTHING along the ignition system that could cause misfire issues and the R ecu is just bringing out because it is slightly more strenuous on the system in a sense. Also what injectors are stock for a V70R (this is a 98 right?)

white injectors same as a t5 greco

[GltGreco]

white injectors same as a t5 greco

So im sure its somewhat lean, but i ran my glt with a t5 ecu that is setup for whites before i had my whites, and ran similar boost as t5 and as R (10-12psi) and never stalled, so its hard for me to see this really being the issue, yes you may be running lean, but idk if its enough to make the car stall, im still sticking by something along the ignition system that the decreased fuel is bringing out.

[Reximus]

if a running issue is pre-existing with the glt ecu. you should really try to solve it before you add in too many pieces of the puzzle to make it more complicated.

cheers!

[payableondeath6]

Greco: I've replaced the plugs, wires, coil wire, distributor cap, and rotor. I haven't replaced the coil yet, do you think I should replace the coil now too? My thoughts are it's something else, but I'm kind of at my wits end. I have Bosch copper plugs ordered and in the mail from IPD, should be here by this weekend. I have only run the V70R ECU for the length of time it took the car to die on its own (~30 seconds) and I did that twice, once cold and once warmed up.

So I need white injectors, I'll get working on that, I'm sure the injectors that are on it now (187k miles) aren't in the best of shape.

Rex: I couldn't agree more as to getting the existing issues fixed first before I worry about the V70R ECU. I just thought I'd give it a shot and if it was plug and play and worked I've still got the same issues to iron out but a little more boost to play with while I do

Would taking it to the dealer and having their diagnostic report give me a much better direction at what the fix is? If so I won't hesitate to drop $75 on that, I just don't want to drop the money to have the mechanic tell me that I've got the same 3 codes that the guy at AutoZone has been telling me.

[GltGreco]

Greco: I've replaced the plugs, wires, coil wire, distributor cap, and rotor. I haven't replaced the coil yet, do you think I should replace the coil now too? My thoughts are it's something else, but I'm kind of at my wits end. I have Bosch copper plugs ordered and in the mail from IPD, should be here by this weekend. I have only run the V70R ECU for the length of time it took the car to die on its own (~30 seconds) and I did that twice, once cold and once warmed up.

So I need white injectors, I'll get working on that, I'm sure the injectors that are on it now (187k miles) aren't in the best of shape.

Rex: I couldn't agree more as to getting the existing issues fixed first before I worry about the V70R ECU. I just thought I'd give it a shot and if it was plug and play and worked I've still got the same issues to iron out but a little more boost to play with while I do

Would taking it to the dealer and having their diagnostic report give me a much better direction at what the fix is? If so I won't hesitate to drop $75 on that, I just don't want to drop the money to have the mechanic tell me that I've got the same 3 codes that the guy at AutoZone has been telling me.

Yeah your coil should be okay, and with all of the new ignition components that pretty much rules that out, so i would say run the glt ecu, and put the new plugs in, clear all codes, and work from there, because i doubt the problem is solely from the R ecu, so get everything solved then plug er in.

[Reximus]

Greco: I've replaced the plugs, wires, coil wire, distributor cap, and rotor. I haven't replaced the coil yet, do you think I should replace the coil now too? My thoughts are it's something else, but I'm kind of at my wits end. I have Bosch copper plugs ordered and in the mail from IPD, should be here by this weekend. I have only run the V70R ECU for the length of time it took the car to die on its own (~30 seconds) and I did that twice, once cold and once warmed up.

So I need white injectors, I'll get working on that, I'm sure the injectors that are on it now (187k miles) aren't in the best of shape.

Rex: I couldn't agree more as to getting the existing issues fixed first before I worry about the V70R ECU. I just thought I'd give it a shot and if it was plug and play and worked I've still got the same issues to iron out but a little more boost to play with while I do

Would taking it to the dealer and having their diagnostic report give me a much better direction at what the fix is? If so I won't hesitate to drop $75 on that, I just don't want to drop the money to have the mechanic tell me that I've got the same 3 codes that the guy at AutoZone has been telling me.

to be honest, trying to describe the issue over the internet without any actually being there could be tough to figure out a problem. having a professional advise could be good option to go for. since what we know is what you see and feel. maybe there's something that you've overlooked, and usually the dealership people are familiar and know where to look for. i would give it a shot and see what comes up.

cheers!

[payableondeath6]

Okay, so I'll try the new plugs, injectors or injectors o rings, and I'll double check intake manifold for vacuum leaks with carb cleaner. Then I'll try the dealer for a fresh set of eyes.

The last 2 mornings its been cool (50f) and the car has had a really rough time staying running until it warms up. Does this sound consistent with a leak or more a sensor problem?

[payableondeath6]

So I sprayed around with the carb cleaner and the intake manifold gasket is leaking. So that should account for my rough idle I'm sure. Guess I'll be pulling the intake manifold again and checking everything is squared away before I replace it. That means putting a clamp on that vacuum elbow and removing that bracket on the driver's side that holds the pcv tube down. I'm going to get a new gasket even though this is a new one from ipd (didn't really like the quality of the gasket they provided).

Volvo has the gasket for $17 at the dealer and AutoZone has a FelPro gasket for the same, which should I get? I've always had good luck with FelPro but thought I'd ask in case the OEM gasket is extra special.

[Keaton85]

I just took off a felpro and it looked nicer then any oem or aftermarket gasket. Although the fcp ones are fine in my opinion as they compress very well. Anything will really does in that area as they are nicely machines surfaces.

So te cheapest one is pretty much what it cones down to as this does t have to be the best of the best..

[Reximus]

gasket brand don't usually matter that much. but i personally prefer the oem type. oem gasket is fiber resin type which holds up pretty good. allot of the after market type uses paper or cork which sux when it comes to sealing and longevity.

basic rule of thumb, clean all mating surface, make sure clear of oil, grease, dirt, and grime. measure surface with straight edge to check for straightness. when mounting parts together, take care not to scratch or cut the gasket. torque the parts properly to spec and tighten by sequence (usually inside out, sometimes outside in... just not left to right or right to left)

this should usually give you a problem free install.

cheers!

[payableondeath6]

So the dealer was the only place that had it in stock and it was cheaper there! Going to see if I can get it knocked out today. Injectors seals, clamp vacuum elbow, and intake manifold gasket... we'll see.

[payableondeath6]

Got the intake manifold gasket changed and the car runs like a dream. Tomorrow I'll warm it up and give the R ecu a try. Fingers crossed!