Pheromone Posted November 3, 2010 Report Share Posted November 3, 2010 hello, So about 2-3 weeks ago i bought a 2000 c70 coupe, with 102,000 miles on it. It ran great the first couple weeks; it was fast and quick to brake...then about a week ago the battery died. I got a jump from a friend and let it recharge on a long drive, no issues. A couple days later it dies again (this was actually my fault), so i go through the same process. Now 2 days ago it died for a 3rd and 4th time! I am positive that only one of times is my fault, so 3 times it failed on its own. This seems to have caused an issue with my turbo/ecu/something electrical, as i am not receiving nearly any boost, its just not driving the way it should and usually does. Now the major issues are; when im driving I can hear my turbo spooling up, but i do not get nearly the amount of power i usually get (especially when flooring it, i just get rpms). Also ive been having issues when starting from drive, its really laggy and slow. To top all of it off when i apply my brakes im getting a horrible screech and it feels like something is clunking around, the brake pedal has vibrations in it. The car is not throwing any CEL's and i have a brand new battery. I have also reset the ecu by disconnecting and stomping on the brakes.(no luck) I am new to the board, and new to volvo in general; but relatively decent with cars. If i could get some help that would be amazing, i just need a place to start. Im new to having a turbo as well, but familiar with the parts. If you need anymore info just let me know thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom. Posted November 3, 2010 Report Share Posted November 3, 2010 i dont see a battery doing it but could it be in limp mode? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pheromone Posted November 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2010 limp mode? im not exactly sure what that means, but it definitely seems like a word i would use to describe the performance....If its anything, the only thing i have noticed thats physically different is the "shift lock override" button is popped up, instead of being down like it was when i bought the car. It kinda reminds me of some MAF issues i had with other cars of mine, the car will run but it just seems like its in a protect mode. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom. Posted November 3, 2010 Report Share Posted November 3, 2010 the shift lock button is supposta be popped up try resetting the car.. leave the battery disconnected for a bit then see... limp mode is a safty precaution of sorts in these cars, if the system senses a problem itll limit the car to prevent further damage.. could also be etm problems... is the car just not starting when its dead or is there no power whatsoever? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pheromone Posted November 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2010 Id say its two and two right now, twice it has just been flat-out dead (crank, and just silence), and two times it would crank but just not enough to start...then all the power would be gone so i couldn't crank again. The gauges sometimes flutter if there isnt enough power (a clicking noise is apparent). Ill disconnect the battery tonight and charge it again with my trickle charger, and see if anything comes of it. If not, im taking it back up to the dealer where i bought it and having a talk with them tomorrow morning....i havent even made my first payment yet :@ sigh...i love volvo, its a comfy ride and classy, but its so much more damn complicated then a POS Hyundai or Nissan... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pheromone Posted November 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2010 so an update... I disconnected the battery last night and let it charge, reattached it this morning and started it up. As soon as i tightened the terminals, i got in my car and noticed immediately that digital part of the gauges were weird. its hard to describe, but basically the gauges were on without the key in, but they were showing every possible black line. I started the car up, and it just started sputtering, and i have an inconsistent idle. Once it warmed up i drove it around the block, and my brakes practically locked up on me and the car almost died a couple times. what the hell is going on here?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SaffC70 Posted November 3, 2010 Report Share Posted November 3, 2010 sounds maf to me as far as the sputtering and inconsistent idle.. or a massive vaccuum leak. try unplugging the maf and see if it will drive Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burn-E Posted November 3, 2010 Report Share Posted November 3, 2010 Sounds like multiple unrelated problems to me. The limp mode could be your ETM (is it on the original or has it been replaced?). The MAF is certainly suspect as well. As for the brakes and clunking, sounds like rotor or caliper issues and brake pads (possibly need a shim that's not in place). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted November 3, 2010 Report Share Posted November 3, 2010 Sounds like you need to bring it back to the dealer as I suspect they atleast have a 30 day warranty. If they dint fix it then you shouldtake legal action. Get the stealership!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pheromone Posted November 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2010 Sounds like you need to bring it back to the dealer as I suspect they atleast have a 30 day warranty. If they dint fix it then you shouldtake legal action. Get the stealership!!! from what experience i have, MAF has been a thought in the back of my head here....but a vacuum leak seems plausible too. I am getting boost now when i depress the accelerator, but when i press it to the floor the rpms just shoot. As for the dealership, i visited them today, it has been 18 days and i pretty much got told to go F*** myself. They took the car on a "test drive" and said nothing was wrong with it, that my turbo was fine...and there was no vibrations, etc...which is all I'm dumb. Noted: on cold start this morning it was sputtering like i said, but once i got it running passed 40ish mph (later today) it started running better (not 100% but better, but better then where i started) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan A Posted November 3, 2010 Report Share Posted November 3, 2010 Sounds like you need to bring it back to the dealer as I suspect they atleast have a 30 day warranty. If they dint fix it then you shouldtake legal action. Get the stealership!!! +1 I wouldn't even touch the car before trying to work it out with the dealer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted November 4, 2010 Report Share Posted November 4, 2010 Doesn't matter if the dealership was being rude. They have a legally binding contract to fix it, unless you bought the car As-Is with no implied warranties. Get to it before the warranty runs out and then you will be the one having to pay to fix it instead of them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big Will Posted November 4, 2010 Report Share Posted November 4, 2010 from what experience i have, MAF has been a thought in the back of my head here....but a vacuum leak seems plausible too. I am getting boost now when i depress the accelerator, but when i press it to the floor the rpms just shoot. As for the dealership, i visited them today, it has been 18 days and i pretty much got told to go F*** myself. They took the car on a "test drive" and said nothing was wrong with it, that my turbo was fine...and there was no vibrations, etc...which is all I'm dumb. Noted: on cold start this morning it was sputtering like i said, but once i got it running passed 40ish mph (later today) it started running better (not 100% but better, but better then where i started) Next time sit in the car with the tech on the test drive. Most of the time, dealerships say they "test drive" the car but that means they pull the car into the garage or onto the lift and no one actually goes for a drive in it. Insist on being in the car and pointing out the problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pheromone Posted November 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2010 Next time sit in the car with the tech on the test drive. Most of the time, dealerships say they "test drive" the car but that means they pull the car into the garage or onto the lift and no one actually goes for a drive in it. Insist on being in the car and pointing out the problems. Doesn't matter if the dealership was being rude. They have a legally binding contract to fix it, unless you bought the car As-Is with no implied warranties. Get to it before the warranty runs out and then you will be the one having to pay to fix it instead of them. -------------------------------------------- it was an as is warranty, but I gave them the BOTD of having some decency as to not treat me like a piece of s***, sadly that was not the case. I also did take the car on an extensive test drive and examined the car to the best of my knowledge before hand, it's appearance backed up the flawless carfax report it had. literally the car had been inspected at a volvo dealership by one owner at least twice every ten thousand miles....i cant figure out how i am having problems if this car has been taken care of so well. On a good note though, driving to and from from college today (35 miles one way) my car seemed to be driving better; but the turbo still just seems to be not operating at what it used to. I think the battery had a severe affect on the problems ive had so far, but i still think there is another factor involved, the MAF or alternator is what my opinions are. ideas? at this point i have not had the opportunity to disconnect the MAF and run it, but from my knowledge/experience wouldn't that make it run worse? TL:DR My car (bought it 16 dyas ago) has been having issues lately, the battery died 4 times in two weeks...i trickle charged it for two days and its running better, but not 100% yet; specifically the turbo is not creating the boost it used to, and on a side note im feeling vibrations (i describe it as a clunking noise/feeling) in the brakes from time to time. The car stuttered really badly and couldnt hold a solid idle after a cold start before fully charging the battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burn-E Posted November 10, 2010 Report Share Posted November 10, 2010 I'll just restate what I said before. Likely you have the misfortune of multiple issues that have surfaced that are likely separate and unrelated. 1. Battery charging issues - could just be a bad battery depending on the age of the battery. If it's not the battery it could equally be the alternator. 2. Not boosting - you quite possibly have a hole in a vacuum hose or blew a hose off one of the connectors. That or your car is in limp mode. 3. Spluttering on start-up - I'm going to say ETM or MAF here. With a 2000 engine you're guaranteed to have issues with the ETM at some point. But equally possible you have a clogged fuel filter or need a new check valve for the fuel line. The point of removing the MAF is that if the car actually runs better without it then the MAF needs cleaning or replacement. Easy job to do. 4. Brakes - you've got an issue here and it's probably a seizing caliper where the pins need cleaning and maybe the caliper needs replacement. If the dealer you bought it from isn't going to do anything about this then you need to start down the path of diagnosing and resolving the issues you're seeing. So the car isn't kicking on the CEL but have you pulled the codes to see what issues might be lurking without actually giving you a CEL? This is where I would start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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