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FAST850R

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Those EVAP hoses are 8mm, but I don't know what length you'll need for yours. We've got an S70 and a V70, but I've only had to deal with EVAP stuff on the V70 where the canister's at the back. I changed the hose from the canister up to the front of the car on that one, and just bought 10 ft of line and cut it where I needed it.

Stylin motors has a kit for ALL hoses, but it's muy expensive.

Some people had input here about where they got bits and pieces from:

http://www.___.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=33001

Thank you for the reply.

I will check the hoses and I will just replace them all....

I just went through the same deal on my 850 NA. P0440 and P0172 along with an unstable idle for 6 months now. Checked for vacuum leaks and couldnt find any. Then one day I was under the hood and could hear air rushing near the EVAP valve. Couldnt find any leak though. Then my guess was that the EVAP valve was stuck open. So I took a pair of pliers and crimped the vacuum hose shut (the one between the intake and evap valve) to test my theory. Bam, idle changed drastically and the air rushing sound went away.

New evap valve fixed it. Its been a solid 2 weeks now and no codes and the idle is rock solid now. I also notice the old evap valve clicked very loudly.

Um....I don't have any idle issue, but yeah, evap valve can be faulty.

Can you tell me when do you hear the loud click sound? Does it do that all the time?

I checked the valve and it seemed work fine, but I am not sure.

So use a piler to crimp the hose? I guess I will try that too...

Did u have really bad MPG?

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Thank you for the reply.

I will check the hoses and I will just replace them all....

Um....I don't have any idle issue, but yeah, evap valve can be faulty.

Can you tell me when do you hear the loud click sound? Does it do that all the time?

I checked the valve and it seemed work fine, but I am not sure.

So use a piler to crimp the hose? I guess I will try that too...

Did u have really bad MPG?

Yeah the bad idle only started to happen in the last month or so. But the codes started showing up way before the idle problem. Pretty bad MPGs for an NA, maybe low 20's mostly highway. Now Im back in the upper 20's.

That clicking can be heard during idling. If you put your hand on it (the EVAP valve) you can actually feel it clicking. There's a electro magnet thing inside there that is opening and closing the valve very quickly. When it stops clicking, the valve would get stuck open. Thats when I tested the flow by crimping off the air supply and noticed the change in idle. There shouldnt be any major amount of airflow through the hose, just tiny pulsating blasts of air when teh valve is functioning properly.

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Yeah the bad idle only started to happen in the last month or so. But the codes started showing up way before the idle problem. Pretty bad MPGs for an NA, maybe low 20's mostly highway. Now Im back in the upper 20's.

That clicking can be heard during idling. If you put your hand on it (the EVAP valve) you can actually feel it clicking. There's a electro magnet thing inside there that is opening and closing the valve very quickly. When it stops clicking, the valve would get stuck open. Thats when I tested the flow by crimping off the air supply and noticed the change in idle. There shouldnt be any major amount of airflow through the hose, just tiny pulsating blasts of air when teh valve is functioning properly.

Thank you for the reply.

I will check the valve again. I checked it briefly yesterday, but I couldn't hear any clicking sound. I will touch it this time and feel whether it clicls or not.

I can just buy evap valve and o2 sensor and replace them, but I really want to pin point what causes those problem...

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  • 10 months later...
Guest blackbrick

Was getting the code P0440 off and on for the last year. I kept taking off the purge valve (behind radiator) and either spraying it out or soaking it in carb cleaner. That would cause the P0440 to go away for a couple months. Now I'm getting the P0172 code. It makes sense that the purge valve has gone south and is stuck open (the carb cleaner probably didn't help!). Car is 14 years old with 115,000 miles. I have decided to order a new one and will post if that helps.

These threads are great help, even 1 year later!

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Was getting the code P0440 off and on for the last year. I kept taking off the purge valve (behind radiator) and either spraying it out or soaking it in carb cleaner. That would cause the P0440 to go away for a couple months. Now I'm getting the P0172 code. It makes sense that the purge valve has gone south and is stuck open (the carb cleaner probably didn't help!). Car is 14 years old with 115,000 miles. I have decided to order a new one and will post if that helps.

These threads are great help, even 1 year later!

PS Was getting terrible mileage when I was getting hte P0440 (17.4 mpg), but now that I'm getting P0172 and the car is running lean, I've jumped up to 18 mpg! ;-)

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  • 1 month later...

I know it's been a while, but I just want to report that I think I found the problem.

I've had those 2 codes about 10month, and I couldn't find what causes the codes.

Last week, I went to junkyard to check parts, then I only could get a purge valve. I just replaced it with the one in my car, and reset the codes.

Now it's been more than a week, and the codes haven't come back yet.

Usually whenever I reset the codes they came back within 3 days.

If they don't come back next week, then I am confident to say that the purge valve was the problem.

Wish me luck!

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