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Oil Pump Failures


BlackBeast

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Since my engine build I have gone through 2 oil pumps, these are remanufactured new units from Volvo. Each pump has done roughly 3k miles, they both show very similar wear. The pressure release valve also shows wear, which is now plastic and not metal like on the older pumps. Oil pressure is fine until oil temps increase over 80ish deg C then they drop lower than the vadis recommended pressure of 3.5bar @ 4k rpm @ 100deg C.

We suspect these remanufactured pumps are out of tolerance and are causing the associated wear.

Gears below show a set taken from a 100k mile pump on the left and my 3k mile set on the right.

Im now on a 100k+ mile old oil pump as a control to try and ascertain if the problem is with these new pumps or with my engine. Ive not tested what the pressures are over 80 degrees yet on this pump.

A spec list:-

Pre ME7 '97 V70 T5

Sump - pre me7, pre me7 pick up tube now with 2 o-rings

Block - me7 block from an '02 C70, pre me7 oil pump, me7 cambelt tensioner, me7 crank pulley

Oil cooling - pre me7 oil thermostat removed, but casing still in place, Setrab front mount oil cooler

The rest - me7 pistons, forged rods, standard bearings, standard crank, billet flywheel, paddle clutch

Head - pre me7 head, n/a cams

Turbo - Garrett GT3071r without oil restrictor

Oil - Redline 15w50, genuine Volvo oil filter

Any ideas???

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I blew my bottom end on build engine.

About 3 month ago after putting new crank bearings and brand new oil pump don't have any issues 3k on new stuff. In my case I used na crank bearings that's why it went.

New pump that I bought for 95 block , had 1997 date stamped on it. Just order part for older motor . It will be probably better quality then new plastic junk.

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You're running an external oil cooler with no t/stat to regulate the oil to the cooler?

I'm with Maciek, just get an old oil pump & replace all the seals. The old pumps don't seem to suffer failure - my local dealer has NEVER sold an oil pump on -98 motors.

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Not that it should hurt the pump, but 15-50? I would not run a motor with hydraulic lifters on 15-50. If I worked at volvo and you said you were killing pumps and running 15-50 I'd probably look at you funny. Put 10-40 at the heaviest.

I did run 20w50 on mine for 25k , that shouldn't heard the motor

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It shouldn't be the oil as I know of 3 other Volvos that use the very same oil without any problems.

Im now running an old oil pump that has done 100k+ miles for 3k miles. From Volvo dealerships in the UK, you cannot buy an old design oil pump anymore, they are all .

Yes, the car doesn't have an oil thermostat anymore as we did think that it was stuck in the open position. The me7 engines don't use one either.

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It shouldn't be the oil as I know of 3 other Volvos that use the very same oil without any problems.

Im now running an old oil pump that has done 100k+ miles for 3k miles. From Volvo dealerships in the UK, you cannot buy an old design oil pump anymore, they are all .

Yes, the car doesn't have an oil thermostat anymore as we did think that it was stuck in the open position. The me7 engines don't use one either.

Don't ME7 oil coolers water/oil though? If so, they don't need an oil thermostat, because the engine already has a coolant thermostat. Cold coolant is not pumped through the heat exchanger so you don't need a t-stat on the oil side. With an air-air you need a t-stat as you can't keep air from passing through the core.

I'm not saying there are no issues with the pumps, but it sounds like your overall setup isn't doing you an favors, either. With 15-50, and air/air oil cooler with no cooler t-stat, your oil pressure releif valve is bypassing like crazy for quite a long time on start up since the oil is thicker than it should be to begin with, AND it's taking way longer to heat up than it would if the cooler was set up correctly.

Either problem by itself would not be great, but these 2 issues are additive and are working against the goal of oiling the engine properly.

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I

Yes, the car doesn't have an oil thermostat anymore as we did think that it was stuck in the open position. The me7 engines don't use one either.

Yes, but... the ME7 design is directly attached to the sump, the cold oil isn't traveling a meter or more through lines... I wouldn't run an external cooler with no t/stat control is all I'm saying...

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Sounds like contamination in the block or maybe the gasket is mounted wrong..

15W-50 shouldn't be a problem but maybe it is a better idea to use 5W-40 during the run in stage.

You are using an adapter ring at the oil filter for the oil cooler?

NA GLT sumps come with a blocking plate in place of the turbo's thermostat housing.

Plate part no. is 1366780

Gasket part no. is 1366791

Bolts are 975880, 2x

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I had the same trouble as Steve IE a faulty new oil pump, only mine took a big end out and the crank this was on a brand new built engine.

I got paid out from Volvo for all the parts I needed to rebuild my motor but I wasn't happy having to do all the work again.

And the ''new re manufactured oil pumps'' only come with one screw holding the pump together and are fitted with cheap plastic oil pressure relief valves, in other words 'crap'.

I've fitted an SPA oil temp/pressure gauge in my car now and watch it like a hawk as I don't trust the replacement they sent me if its made like the last one.

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I had the same trouble as Steve IE a faulty new oil pump, only mine took a big end out and the crank this was on a brand new built engine.

I got paid out from Volvo for all the parts I needed to rebuild my motor but I wasn't happy having to do all the work again.

And the ''new re manufactured oil pumps'' only come with one screw holding the pump together and are fitted with cheap plastic oil pressure relief valves, in other words 'crap'.

I've fitted an SPA oil temp/pressure gauge in my car now and watch it like a hawk as I don't trust the replacement they sent me if its made like the last one.

Sounds like you have been unlucky Alan what reading's are you getting on idle from cold start and after 20 mins driving on idle ?

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This is the case on most volvo parts now from what I have seen they arent built like they were from factory anymore, because suppliers to volvo have either cheapend standards or product is made in a cheaper labor country with no quality control. Unless you can find a build date on the part as around the same time the model was released those are the parts to use. My friend has been through 3 volvo heater cores and hit orignal one lasted 10 years.

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My temps at first start up are 5.8-6 bar and after a short run with temps around 80c the pressure is around 2 bar.

If Steve takes his oil pump off after 3000 miles and if it looks OK' I'm going to remove mine and strip it to see what its like.

I want to make dam sure that it doesn't happen again to me or anyone else's car' btw mines a P2 T5 with a stock oil cooler system and I'm using Recline 15/40 oil.

Scootdiggity

I think your right there mate outsourcing parts on the cheap or cheap re manufactured parts

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