sconeman Posted February 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2011 (edited) I spent an hour browsing lowes today and then a couple hours making a cam locking too. I took measurements in case anyone wants to save a $100 vs buying the fleabay tool. I just made what was in the Haynes manual as suggested. There's a pin on the side of the engine that I thought about taking out but wound up painting it with a metalic maker and getting the location that way. I don't think 850's have this pin. Used a foot of 1/8" Angle iron and some 1/8" bar for the cams. The slots in the cams are 4mm or ~.158 inches. The bolt shafts are 10mm. I got a 10.7mm or 27/64 drill IIRC. The bolt holes are 29mm down from the center-line (measured off the seam between the head and the cam cover. The bolt holes are 52mm apart on center. I had to over size one of the holes because my drill walked but it worked out pretty good. I intentionally set the angle iron a little higher so there is upward tension on the cams (since the bar is .022 inches thinner than the cam groove) pics. the first two holes are drilled and marking location of pin. Now all I need is my VVT blanking hub. I also thought I would post up this useful info. $1.50 seal drifts: 4" PVC cap for RMS 2" cap for axle seals 1.5" something or other for Cam seals Oh and for while you're degreasing your tranny.. I forget what this was called to but it's in the plumbing section of lowes and it was .50 :D Edited February 1, 2011 by sconeman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johann Posted February 1, 2011 Report Share Posted February 1, 2011 my plan is to drill and tap that blank section. They just left the old block of material there. I have to measure to make sure but I did a quick compare to the 850 engine and it seems to be in the correct location if you mount it as shown. Can't you source a '99-'00 X70 motormount? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sconeman Posted February 1, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2011 Can't you source a '99-'00 X70 motormount? yeah I guess I need to look into it more. Volvo 5.0 is going to help me, he has a few different ones to compare. Black T5 said the later mount he had shifted the mounting point over on his car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volvo5.0 Posted February 1, 2011 Report Share Posted February 1, 2011 I looked at a couple of mount brackets that I have. Johann is correct, the '99 and '00 mount bracket will definitely work. Here is the PN-9186828 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johann Posted February 1, 2011 Report Share Posted February 1, 2011 Johann is correct Just to remind you.. PS, at the distribution side the metal part of the motormount is different also. Same goes here. MY99-00 RN engine has the correct metal mount. The rubber/alloy chassis mount of the car the engine needs to go in to will fit this "RN" metal mount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sconeman Posted February 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 (edited) Just to remind you.. PS, at the distribution side the metal part of the motormount is different also. Same goes here. MY99-00 RN engine has the correct metal mount. The rubber/alloy chassis mount of the car the engine needs to go in to will fit this "RN" metal mount. thanks! I looked around and don't have the mount from the 02 C70. i checked the part number and the mount for the 99-00 V70's is the same as the 99-05 C70's (of course) and obviously the 01+ 70 series and presumably 60 series is the other version. If my engine still had that mount on it I'd be all set. Looks like Volvo 5.0 might have one. So the tranny I pulled this fall... Bad throwout bearing sent it to the yard. It looks like the brearing destroyed the shaft it sits on. It's all scratched to hell and I had to cut/scrape the remains off. It had melted. carnage Shaft Fork now onto cleaning.. btw anyone have: a used shaft/spindle whatever, a used fork, oh and I need a stud for the Clutch master cylinder, mine only came with one.. pm me if you have any of that stuff. thx Edited February 2, 2011 by sconeman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted February 2, 2011 Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 Nice work on the cam tool & seal drifts! Looking at my '98 ancillary brackets & tensioner - it looks like the later timing cover won't fit behind the tensioner. You're using all the later stuff (bracket/ AC compressor/Alt/PS pump) on yours, aren't you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sconeman Posted February 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 (edited) Nice work on the cam tool & seal drifts! Looking at my '98 ancillary brackets & tensioner - it looks like the later timing cover won't fit behind the tensioner. You're using all the later stuff (bracket/ AC compressor/Alt/PS pump) on yours, aren't you? thanks! I'm using all the accessories off the 850. So I'm swapping over the earlier bracket, accessories, Thermostat housing etc. I probably would use the newer stuff if the engine had come with it Edited February 2, 2011 by sconeman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted February 2, 2011 Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 thanks! I'm using all the accessories off the 850. So I'm swapping over the earlier bracket, accessories, Thermostat housing etc. I probably would use the newer stuff if the engine had come with it Have you tried to fit the timing covers behind the 850/98 serpentine belt tensioner? It looks like it won't clear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sconeman Posted February 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 (edited) Have you tried to fit the timing covers behind the 850/98 serpentine belt tensioner? It looks like it won't clear. hmm no haven't gotten to that yet. I'm going over tomorrow for more than two hours finally. Maybe I'll take a look at it then. thanks for the heads up. just checked back in the earlier pics. I bolted it up but didn't have the cover on. Edited February 2, 2011 by sconeman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R o b Posted February 2, 2011 Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 With the 18T and some other mods mine achieved this: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sconeman Posted February 2, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 (edited) With the 18T and some other mods mine achieved this: whoa nice, what are your other mods? I actually wound up ordering a 19t. should be here next week. Edited February 2, 2011 by sconeman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted February 2, 2011 Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 Don't know what the PK conversion factor is... 380 something ft/lbs of torque - that's pretty impressive! I wish we had someone like Fasttech around here! whoa nice, what are your other mods? I actually wound up ordering a 19t. should be here next week. Looking at the different belt tensioner designs, the later one is basically placed where our idler sits now. The '98 tensioner sits directly over where the outer cover bulges out. Either have to shave/notch the cover, or maybe shave the back of the tensioner. I'm going to look at the feasibility of incorporating the later design tensioner with the early ancillary main bracket. Don't throw out that bracket & tensioner you removed from the motor yet! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted February 2, 2011 Report Share Posted February 2, 2011 Looking at the different belt tensioner designs, the later one is basically placed where our idler sits now. The '98 tensioner sits directly over where the outer cover bulges out. Either have to shave/notch the cover, or maybe shave the back of the tensioner. I'm going to look at the feasibility of incorporating the later design tensioner with the early ancillary main bracket. Don't throw out that bracket & tensioner you removed from the motor yet! Cover will need to be notched I'm going to try & fit the newer style tensioner Inner cover has to be notched for the casting intended for old style hydraulic tensioner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sconeman Posted February 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2011 (edited) Hussein It's funny you worked on the same thing today..you're unstoppable For me I won't be notching to inside plastic because the entire engine is the 02 and has the newer Tbelt tensioner. I think the moral of the story if that there are several options if you don't mind doing some trimming and (thinking) So I looked at it this morning and decided (as you had) that it could possibly be altered. I did it one step at a time. and it does all fit. It's an incredibly tight tolerance between the tensioner pulley and the cover (.07") or something like that. But it doesn't hit and I don't think it will in the future. The cover is very hard to put on under the tensioner but it can be done. So I guess I'm keeping the old accessories and the new Tbelt cover. First thing that needs to be removed is the small plastic catch that holds the metal tab. The tab and plastic were getting pushed back by the tensioner and making it so the cover wouldn't mate up to it. I'll probably rivet the tab to the cover but it actually stays on very well once the tensioner is on. Then the cover has to be notched for the tensioner. I used paint maker and then cut it out. Will sand later. Also there is a small piece on the top front edge that can get trimmed. Next there is a rib that has to be removed so that the tensioner can be untensioned for when you install the serp belt. All together and it works. Just barely. Now back apart again hard to see the clearance but it's minimal finished cleaning the head. Now just need to paint it. I'm thinking Gold possibly . not sure yet. got a bunch of other little stuff done. But got hung up on the sleave in the transmission (needs to come out because it was damaged by the release bearing). The bolts started to strip so I to stop :( Edited February 3, 2011 by sconeman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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