sconeman Posted January 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 (edited) Nice shortening lesson...I want to do that but at this point I have NO patience..maybe I'll chop it with a grinder and put a momo knob on it!! BTW short shift kit feels NICE now...gonna turn the key tomorrow on mine..hope it starts! haha I understand completely. I actually had that thought tonight when I was doing it That would be significantly faster and easier : ) oh and good luck tomorrow. Edited January 6, 2011 by sconeman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzimark Posted January 6, 2011 Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 Can't tell from this whether the upper ear for the cam sensor is even still there. I'm thinking it isn't, simply because the later torque mount base is exactly where the ear is on my old head... I don't have a pic of it, but I am 99% sure there is a cam sensor ear on the cam cover. The torque mount has a recess for the sensor on the inside iirc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volvo5.0 Posted January 6, 2011 Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 (edited) I don't have a pic of it, but I am 99% sure there is a cam sensor ear on the cam cover. The torque mount has a recess for the sensor on the inside iirc. The early cam sensor should bolt on no problem.... The only modification I needed to do was enlarge the hole on the back of the cam to accept the piece that bolts on the cam sensor.... Edited January 6, 2011 by Volvo5.0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sconeman Posted January 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 The early cam sensor should bolt on no problem.... The only modification I needed to do was enlarge the hole on the back of the cam to accept the piece that bolts on the cam sensor.... Awesome thanks for the pics. So is it better to leave the newer style torque rod mount or to swap on the older type? I was planning to swap but haven't looked carefully yet at what needs to happen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted January 6, 2011 Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 Awesome thanks for the pics. So is it better to leave the newer style torque rod mount or to swap on the older type? I was planning to swap but haven't looked carefully yet at what needs to happen I don't have that lower half bracket for the torque mount I'm going to see if the early style will fit, it makes it so much easier to access the cam sensor if needed. The lateral brace pin that bolts to the top of the head would be the issue, I think. The newer style appears much more rigid, but the factory mounts don't last any longer than the old style :lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chilled man Posted January 6, 2011 Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 Sawzall / hotglue Let me fix that . :lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NEU Posted January 6, 2011 Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 I don't have that lower half bracket for the torque mount I'm going to see if the early style will fit, it makes it so much easier to access the cam sensor if needed. The lateral brace pin that bolts to the top of the head would be the issue, I think. The newer style appears much more rigid, but the factory mounts don't last any longer than the old style I'll going to chime in on the newer style upper mounts bushings. On the older style (-'98) there seems to be more selection in terms of solid poly vs. slotted or Swiss cheese holes... I've found only one manufacturer Elevate, that makes solid poly mounts for the round ('99-'04) and even newer square version (+'05). They come with a lifetime warranty and can be had in different duros for the round style, but cost like $60. The other manufacturers all put holes in there. My post on newer style poly mounts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sconeman Posted January 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 (edited) not too much exciting happened today. stripped old engine and cleaned up some parts, who wants my EGR! JK BTW I wouldn't recommend buying Euro brand PCV kits. Installed 2 years ago and the plastic is hard, elbows have holes, and the drain seal softened/loosened up causing a significant (1 of many) oil leak. I'm replacing the hard lines with copper as recommended by someone on the board earlier this year. Anyone interested in copper breather pipe kits? I could potentially put something simple together. I just hate seeing this crap get installed only to fail 1 year later. PCV is something you shouldn't have to do every two years Also I don't think I'm going to use the cheap ebay catch cans anymore. I might experiment with something nicer later but I'm planning to install the engine with no catch can. here's come oil carnage pics there was also oil leaking all over the back of the engine. At this point I really don't know where it was coming from... maybe a crack in the head. Edited January 6, 2011 by sconeman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted January 7, 2011 Report Share Posted January 7, 2011 What a mess! I was going to ask where all the oil was coming from in the first pic, but nvrmnd! I used 1/2" straight copper pipe for the breather pipe off the box - with a 1/2" elbow - so that a 3" straight piece of VO 949701 hose could be used to connect the two. I'll going to chime in on the newer style upper mounts bushings. So.. what did you end up with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sconeman Posted January 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2011 What a mess! I was going to ask where all the oil was coming from in the first pic, but nvrmnd! I used 1/2" straight copper pipe for the breather pipe off the box - with a 1/2" elbow - so that a 3" straight piece of VO 949701 hose could be used to connect the two. So.. what did you end up with? I didn't get that far yet. Saturday I'll be doing some more work on it and will finish stripping down the 02 . I'm waiting on parts until the end of next week so I've got a week to get everything sorted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volvo5.0 Posted January 7, 2011 Report Share Posted January 7, 2011 (edited) I saw Neu's post about the lack of choices for the newer style upper engine mounts. I was messing around after work today and it looks like if you take the "guts" out of the newer style round mount but leave the outer ring in the housing that the early style (98 and earlier) mount will fit perfectly inside.... Edited January 7, 2011 by Volvo5.0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NEU Posted January 7, 2011 Report Share Posted January 7, 2011 So.. what did you end up with? I ended up getting one from I think the manufacturer is MTC??? It looks like the IPD spiral slotted, but in a harder duro, like plastic! I saw Neu's post about the lack of choices for the newer style upper engine mounts. I was messing around after work today and it looks like if you take the "guts" out of the newer style round mount but leave the outer ring in the housing that the early style (98 and earlier) mount will fit perfectly inside.... THAT'S genius! I couldn't do that as I cut mine out long time ago and was running IPDs version before it turned to jello. I tried as i have 2 solid -'98 versions and it was just a little too small. That's the best way to get a solid poly mount. But do they go thru all the way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Volvo5.0 Posted January 7, 2011 Report Share Posted January 7, 2011 I tried as i have 2 solid -'98 versions and it was just a little too small. That's the best way to get a solid poly mount. But do they go thru all the way? The later style aluminum housing is slightly wider than the early style metal housing. So when it's all put together the metal sleeve that slides inside the 2 half's of the mount, comes up a little short (maybe a 1/4"). As wide as the lip is on the poly mount that I have, I'm sure each side of it could be narrowed slightly. Either that or add a spacer to the metal sleeve so it extends fully through the mount. The metal strut from the firewall does fits nicely over the mount even though it's slightly wider.... WOW Kristian!!! That was a nasty oil leak! I'm sure that new engine will never look like that :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted January 7, 2011 Report Share Posted January 7, 2011 Excellent Idea on the torque mount! See my 2nd reply to your PM :rolleyes: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sconeman Posted January 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2011 Excellent Idea on the torque mount! See my 2nd reply to your PM I'm trying to find one like what is shown online. Are all the aftermarket replacement versions square? It sure looks like it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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