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Changing Tbelt On 2000 With Vvt And Exhaust Cam Slipped Forwar


krn

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I'm replacing the timing belt on a 2000 S40 with VVT on the exhaust side.

The cam locking tool slipped off (generic cam locking tool and it was hard

to get a good fit). Seems as if the exhaust side is spring loaded since it

then rotated forward.

How can I recover? Do I just move the exhaust cam back (counter clockwise) into

position or is there some other recovery process needed to take into account

the VVT mechanism?

Thanks

Forgot to mention the intake spun too but I assume that can be put back

by just rotating it (counter-clockwise in this case) back into position.

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I think part of the directions for doing the t-belt on any car with VVT is to mark the cams before removing the belt, then rotate the belt via the crank (with the belt still on) forward half a rotation and then back that amount assuming your using the indicator mark on the crank as your starting point. When you move it back the tension "should" be released.

As long as you marked where the cams should line up I would think you would be all set. Definitely need another opinion as I've only done cars without VVT and there is no tension.

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Thanks. The cams and crankshaft were all lined up in the correct positions.

The timing belt wass off when the cams moved so the crank is still at top dead center.

I'm thinking there is probably no spring load from the VVT that would have caused

the cams to have moved. Instead, when my cam lock tool let go the tension on it probably

moved the cams (both moved). But I'm not sure and I want to be cautious.

I was using a camclamp cam lock:

KDT-3840.jpg

You slide it into position and tighten the knobs. I probably had too much

tension on it when I slid it into position and it popped off spininng the cams.

Well,thats my latest theory.

Where the cams are now:

afterCamMoved.jpg

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I think part of the directions for doing the t-belt on any car with VVT is to mark the cams before removing the belt, then rotate the belt via the crank (with the belt still on) forward half a rotation and then back that amount assuming your using the indicator mark on the crank as your starting point. When you move it back the tension "should" be released.

As long as you marked where the cams should line up I would think you would be all set. Definitely need another opinion as I've only done cars without VVT and there is no tension.

Ah, I missed the rotate past then back. I did not do that. I rotated the engine clockwise into

position at TDC then stopped. Hope that doesn't cause me too much pain. Thanks for pointing

that step out.

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Yeah just found it from a thread on Swedespeed. This is for a 2001 S60, IIRC they only had a single VVT on the exhaust cam not the intake.

"When you set the timing with all the marks aligned, VADIS says to turn the crank clockwise 1/4 turn PAST the timing marks, and then turn the crank counter-clockwise to get back to where you want. That is to release the tension on the VVT system on the exhaust cam."

I would think on your car if you do not have dual VVT only one of your cams should have moved when removing the belt.

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Thanks Fitzy, thats how they were when I started. Then they slipped.

I'm just not sure if I can rotate it back into position since VVT

might mean there is more to it than just moving it back (like maybe I have

to move it back then unbolt and reset VVT). Or perhaps I can move it back, install

the belt, then rotate it forward through a few revolutions and that would reset

it (I hope!). In the meantime, I'm leaving it alone while I research it a bit more.

I did find a note in VADIS to move it past TDC then rotate back before removing

the belt. It was kind of buried under cam seal replacement. I was following the

BAY 13 S40 instructions which did not mention it. I supppose if the cam lock tool

had not failed then there would not be a need to move past TDC then back.

Thanks again.

Yeah just found it from a thread on Swedespeed. This is for a 2001 S60, IIRC they only had a single VVT on the exhaust cam not the intake.

"When you set the timing with all the marks aligned, VADIS says to turn the crank clockwise 1/4 turn PAST the timing marks, and then turn the crank counter-clockwise to get back to where you want. That is to release the tension on the VVT system on the exhaust cam."

I would think on your car if you do not have dual VVT only one of your cams should have moved when removing the belt.

Exhaust on VVT only. But i think that was under tension and the cam tool pulled the

intake side with it when it let loose (which is why both rotated). Intake should be an easy fix

of just putting it back.

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After thinking about this overnight here is what I am going to try (I am in California

so I'm just waiting for it to warm up a bit):

1. Remove cam sensor (on exhaust cam) so I can see the back of the cam (in particular

the groove in the back).

2. Rotate the exhaust cam counter-clockwise back into position from the front (using

the cam gear) and verify the cam is actually moving by looking at the back. After

it is back, the groove in the rear of the cam should be horizontal (right?).

3. Rotate intake cam clockwise back into position.

4. Re-assemble timing belt, cam sensor, etc.

5. Manually rotate engine a few revolutions to check for interference.

6. Start engine to get oil pressure. Shut down, double check cam timing marks at TDC. (Mostly

because I don't know if that moves the cam relative to the gear when VVT first gets oil pressure.)

If that doesn't work then I probably need the rear cam holding tool to lock the cams into

position from the rear (engine is already at TDC). Then pull the exhaust VVT/front cam gear and

re-install with timing mark aligned (so the marks are correct for any future mechanics

who open it up).

I'm probably over-thinking it <_<

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Yeah just found it from a thread on Swedespeed. This is for a 2001 S60, IIRC they only had a single VVT on the exhaust cam not the intake.

"When you set the timing with all the marks aligned, VADIS says to turn the crank clockwise 1/4 turn PAST the timing marks, and then turn the crank counter-clockwise to get back to where you want. That is to release the tension on the VVT system on the exhaust cam."

I would think on your car if you do not have dual VVT only one of your cams should have moved when removing the belt.

VVT on the S60 engine and the S40/V40 is completely different.

OP: The CVVT hub is not spring loaded on your vehicle. All you need to do is line up the marks and go. The reason why the cam may have shifted is because the cam may be strait up on a lob causing it to fall to one side of the other. Forget the cam locking tool, they don't work on VVT cars. Get your marks back and you'll be fine, no need for the extra steps.

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VVT on the S60 engine and the S40/V40 is completely different.

OP: The CVVT hub is not spring loaded on your vehicle. All you need to do is line up the marks and go. The reason why the cam may have shifted is because the cam may be strait up on a lob causing it to fall to one side of the other. Forget the cam locking tool, they don't work on VVT cars. Get your marks back and you'll be fine, no need for the extra steps.

Thanks so much. I just finished it up and it was quite rewarding to hear the engine start right

up and then take it for a short drive. It took several tries since the cams would hold the

position until you touched them, then they snapped back. Kind of like trying to put a sock on a

mouse trap (but eventually I got the hang of it).

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