krn Posted January 22, 2011 Report Share Posted January 22, 2011 I'm replacing the timing belt on a 2000 S40 with VVT on the exhaust side. The cam locking tool slipped off (generic cam locking tool and it was hard to get a good fit). Seems as if the exhaust side is spring loaded since it then rotated forward. How can I recover? Do I just move the exhaust cam back (counter clockwise) into position or is there some other recovery process needed to take into account the VVT mechanism? ThanksForgot to mention the intake spun too but I assume that can be put back by just rotating it (counter-clockwise in this case) back into position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fitzy Posted January 22, 2011 Report Share Posted January 22, 2011 I think part of the directions for doing the t-belt on any car with VVT is to mark the cams before removing the belt, then rotate the belt via the crank (with the belt still on) forward half a rotation and then back that amount assuming your using the indicator mark on the crank as your starting point. When you move it back the tension "should" be released. As long as you marked where the cams should line up I would think you would be all set. Definitely need another opinion as I've only done cars without VVT and there is no tension. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krn Posted January 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2011 Thanks. The cams and crankshaft were all lined up in the correct positions. The timing belt wass off when the cams moved so the crank is still at top dead center. I'm thinking there is probably no spring load from the VVT that would have caused the cams to have moved. Instead, when my cam lock tool let go the tension on it probably moved the cams (both moved). But I'm not sure and I want to be cautious. I was using a camclamp cam lock: You slide it into position and tighten the knobs. I probably had too much tension on it when I slid it into position and it popped off spininng the cams. Well,thats my latest theory. Where the cams are now: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krn Posted January 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2011 I think part of the directions for doing the t-belt on any car with VVT is to mark the cams before removing the belt, then rotate the belt via the crank (with the belt still on) forward half a rotation and then back that amount assuming your using the indicator mark on the crank as your starting point. When you move it back the tension "should" be released. As long as you marked where the cams should line up I would think you would be all set. Definitely need another opinion as I've only done cars without VVT and there is no tension. Ah, I missed the rotate past then back. I did not do that. I rotated the engine clockwise into position at TDC then stopped. Hope that doesn't cause me too much pain. Thanks for pointing that step out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fitzy Posted January 23, 2011 Report Share Posted January 23, 2011 That step is not listed for the s40 directions in Vida, but I have read that at least once somewhere else recently. Per vida your cams should be lined up like this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fitzy Posted January 23, 2011 Report Share Posted January 23, 2011 Yeah just found it from a thread on Swedespeed. This is for a 2001 S60, IIRC they only had a single VVT on the exhaust cam not the intake. "When you set the timing with all the marks aligned, VADIS says to turn the crank clockwise 1/4 turn PAST the timing marks, and then turn the crank counter-clockwise to get back to where you want. That is to release the tension on the VVT system on the exhaust cam." I would think on your car if you do not have dual VVT only one of your cams should have moved when removing the belt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krn Posted January 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2011 Thanks Fitzy, thats how they were when I started. Then they slipped. I'm just not sure if I can rotate it back into position since VVT might mean there is more to it than just moving it back (like maybe I have to move it back then unbolt and reset VVT). Or perhaps I can move it back, install the belt, then rotate it forward through a few revolutions and that would reset it (I hope!). In the meantime, I'm leaving it alone while I research it a bit more. I did find a note in VADIS to move it past TDC then rotate back before removing the belt. It was kind of buried under cam seal replacement. I was following the BAY 13 S40 instructions which did not mention it. I supppose if the cam lock tool had not failed then there would not be a need to move past TDC then back. Thanks again. Yeah just found it from a thread on Swedespeed. This is for a 2001 S60, IIRC they only had a single VVT on the exhaust cam not the intake. "When you set the timing with all the marks aligned, VADIS says to turn the crank clockwise 1/4 turn PAST the timing marks, and then turn the crank counter-clockwise to get back to where you want. That is to release the tension on the VVT system on the exhaust cam." I would think on your car if you do not have dual VVT only one of your cams should have moved when removing the belt. Exhaust on VVT only. But i think that was under tension and the cam tool pulled the intake side with it when it let loose (which is why both rotated). Intake should be an easy fix of just putting it back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krn Posted January 23, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2011 After thinking about this overnight here is what I am going to try (I am in California so I'm just waiting for it to warm up a bit): 1. Remove cam sensor (on exhaust cam) so I can see the back of the cam (in particular the groove in the back). 2. Rotate the exhaust cam counter-clockwise back into position from the front (using the cam gear) and verify the cam is actually moving by looking at the back. After it is back, the groove in the rear of the cam should be horizontal (right?). 3. Rotate intake cam clockwise back into position. 4. Re-assemble timing belt, cam sensor, etc. 5. Manually rotate engine a few revolutions to check for interference. 6. Start engine to get oil pressure. Shut down, double check cam timing marks at TDC. (Mostly because I don't know if that moves the cam relative to the gear when VVT first gets oil pressure.) If that doesn't work then I probably need the rear cam holding tool to lock the cams into position from the rear (engine is already at TDC). Then pull the exhaust VVT/front cam gear and re-install with timing mark aligned (so the marks are correct for any future mechanics who open it up). I'm probably over-thinking it <_< Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ihatespeedbumps Posted January 24, 2011 Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 Yeah just found it from a thread on Swedespeed. This is for a 2001 S60, IIRC they only had a single VVT on the exhaust cam not the intake. "When you set the timing with all the marks aligned, VADIS says to turn the crank clockwise 1/4 turn PAST the timing marks, and then turn the crank counter-clockwise to get back to where you want. That is to release the tension on the VVT system on the exhaust cam." I would think on your car if you do not have dual VVT only one of your cams should have moved when removing the belt. VVT on the S60 engine and the S40/V40 is completely different. OP: The CVVT hub is not spring loaded on your vehicle. All you need to do is line up the marks and go. The reason why the cam may have shifted is because the cam may be strait up on a lob causing it to fall to one side of the other. Forget the cam locking tool, they don't work on VVT cars. Get your marks back and you'll be fine, no need for the extra steps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
krn Posted January 24, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2011 VVT on the S60 engine and the S40/V40 is completely different. OP: The CVVT hub is not spring loaded on your vehicle. All you need to do is line up the marks and go. The reason why the cam may have shifted is because the cam may be strait up on a lob causing it to fall to one side of the other. Forget the cam locking tool, they don't work on VVT cars. Get your marks back and you'll be fine, no need for the extra steps. Thanks so much. I just finished it up and it was quite rewarding to hear the engine start right up and then take it for a short drive. It took several tries since the cams would hold the position until you touched them, then they snapped back. Kind of like trying to put a sock on a mouse trap (but eventually I got the hang of it). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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