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Power Braking


blazen244

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If you can brake boost to 2500 your transmission is already ruined.

i never had any problems with my old car in terms of transmissions again i wasnt doing it at every red light, i can count on one hand the amount of times i took that car to the track... i could also be mistaken for 2000-2500 somewhere around ballpark range

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i never had any problems with my old car in terms of transmissions again i wasnt doing it at every red light, i can count on one hand the amount of times i took that car to the track... i could also be mistaken for 2000-2500 somewhere around ballpark range

I know all the OEM TQs had stall speeds well under 2500.

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I know all the OEM TQs had stall speeds well under 2500.

Exactly how I blew a torque converter seal and started a slow trans leak (except add 1500 rpm to that OEM value). Since then fixed, but never a good idea. Honestly unless you have a manual its not worth trying to launch the auto that hard. They perform best on the open road IMO.

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I got a better time without brake boosting. I kept spinning. I had go ease into it and even then I was smoking my 225 potenzas. Need an LSD to launch. Haha

same experience, when i went to the track the second time i tried brake boosting i think around 1800(idk if thats good or bad but its what happened) and it would just sit and spin

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I brake boost my car all the time at the track 8-10psi off the line and having it stall at 2200 RPMs cuts me a 2.1XX 60 ft. time thank God for AWD. When I mess around which isn't to frequent I'll pull fuse #14 and #19 (30amp) which makes the car run FWD and yeah I don't honestly know why anyone would want to have a FWD Volvo these cars have way to much TQ to try launching with any power behind it, hell even a slow 5-10mph roll I would still make smoke pour off the tires when the right foot mashes all the way down. 60 ft. time jumped up to around 2.4xx with trying to feather the gas off the line and resulted in a half second difference at the end of the 1/8th (which is all we have out here).

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If you can brake boost to 2500 your transmission is already ruined.

:lol: I can brake boost to 3k and 12psi. Works wonders for traction. My fluid has 330,xxxkms on it, is black, smells like old diff oil, has chunks of metal in it, and shifts like the day I bought it still. I don't understand how people can kill these tranny's, i've been doing it since I bought the car, trying to kill it, and I can't. I've broken driveshafts in 2 but not kill the tranny. monkey I love these cars

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I can totally see it totally gaining you with awd. But for front I lose traction. Maybe with slicks.

How is the fuse trick? Does that give you more power in the freeway? Or it's still spinning the driveline.....

I don't know exactly how it works, I am ASSUMING the rear diff. is some how electronically controled when those two fuses are removed it then sends all power to just the front wheels. It doesn't lock the back wheels up at all they still move freely. I'm sure that for long time - high speed runs it can't be good, but for a quick burnout and for me a short 1/8th mi. it hasn't leaked one drip of any fluid, the rear diff looks just fine and no tranny problems. You really get a good look at what an everyday FWD deals with in reguards to TQ steer, they feel like a SRT-4 with how bad the car moves around when launching in a my car with the fuses pulled.

As for it giving you more power I haven't dyno'ed the car in either state (fwd/awd) so I couldn't tell you. I don't see a difference when I pull the fuses as far as it feeling faster my friends who've been in the car both ways say they feel a harder acceleration once I gain traction.

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