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I got an idea. Let's ship the cams in with the head order, however don't reassemble the top valve cover. Let's leave that off at the shop and just secure the cams to the top of the head with plastic wrap.

Somebody dropped it Cam Gear-first from what would appear to be a pretty good height

The cam snapped, but continued to beat the hell out of the head along the way.

It would be safe to assume the remaining cam is lobbed.

Got a crack on the intake cam seal area and total debauchery on the exhaust side, raised compressed alloy area, deformed sleeve, multiple impact scores.

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Guess this should be in The "What Peed u -Off" today section. But 'm cool. Just thought I'd share.

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Dispute time on that one. That's not even an oversight, that's just ignorant. But, a lot of people are clueless on packing or just plain lazy.

Who was the seller?

A scrapyard guy on ebay ...he lists his pulled parts there. Shipped from MI. I won't tarnish his name yet. I sent him pictures plus pix of the box and told him the head is worthless. I'll give him a chance to get back to me.

Between the seller, ebay, Paypal, and my American Express, somebody will have me reimbursed most promptly. No shortage of arms to twist on this one, and that's nice for a change.

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Hello,

Not that it changes things (because it's still the sellers fault), but the crack in the second and fourth pictures was probably done when removing the cams, not during shipping. I've seen this multiple times. Cam is lifted from the transmission end only and cracks the land like that. Some have said it doesn't really hurt anything, but that is also the thrust surface for the cam. Seems pretty important to me ;). Anyway, hope things work out for you.

Joe

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wow, what a rip!!

Talked to him today. Filed an ebay "not as described" for documentation purposes. He says I don't need to return the whole head, just pull the valves. Not sure if he just wants proof I am not going to use them in my head, or he's just a pennypincher looking for some return. Since it ships back on my dime before I can get a refund, I'd rather just send the valves.

I wanted him to pay return shipping but before the phone call I had already noted refund terms stating client will pay 'return shipping fees" in the listing dialogue to recover the refund. I bitched a little and he said " you could get at least $10 for that aluminum block at the scrapyard"

I asked what made him conclude that a guy who paid $250 for a $100 scrapyard head delivered to his door ... would have any interest in going down to the scrapyard to drop off a head for $10 ?

Anyway all looks good I just need somebody to tell me the trick to compressing the springs so I can get the valves out. I need the experience anyway. I have new valve stem seals with my gasket kit so I may as well just practice removal on his block and then do valves on my original head. I've done v8/rocker arm/ lifter/ stuff before. I did search can't seem to see any diagram on the DOHC. Or removal procedure. I am s70 N/A 1998

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Hello,

Not that it changes things (because it's still the sellers fault), but the crack in the second and fourth pictures was probably done when removing the cams, not during shipping. I've seen this multiple times. Cam is lifted from the transmission end only and cracks the land like that. Some have said it doesn't really hurt anything, but that is also the thrust surface for the cam. Seems pretty important to me ;). Anyway, hope things work out for you.

Joe

Possible. But with the teeth imprints of both cam gears on the face of the block there's plenty of evidence of both theories. Like I said he did not include the valve cover so when the cams were laying in position and the box fell face-first; the tail-end of the cam could have swung up and exactly caused that aforementioned event you described . I'll take heed of your input since I will obviously be handling these cams when positioning on reassembly.

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Talked to him today. Filed an ebay "not as described" for documentation purposes. He says I don't need to return the whole head, just pull the valves. Not sure if he just wants proof I am not going to use them in my head, or he's just a pennypincher looking for some return. Since it ships back on my dime before I can get a refund, I'd rather just send the valves.

I wanted him to pay return shipping but before the phone call I had already noted refund terms stating client will pay 'return shipping fees" in the listing dialogue to recover the refund. I bitched a little and he said " you could get at least $10 for that aluminum block at the scrapyard"

I asked what made him conclude that a guy who paid $250 for a $100 scrapyard head delivered to his door ... would have any interest in going down to the scrapyard to drop off a head for $10 ?

Anyway all looks good I just need somebody to tell me the trick to compressing the springs so I can get the valves out. I need the experience anyway. I have new valve stem seals with my gasket kit so I may as well just practice removal on his block and then do valves on my original head. I've done v8/rocker arm/ lifter/ stuff before. I did search can't seem to see any diagram on the DOHC. Or removal procedure. I am s70 N/A 1998

I hope it all works out! Any plans to get a new head? I have a head, but its for a turbo.

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I was thinking the same thing on those cracks. I've done that.

Hello,

Not that it changes things (because it's still the sellers fault), but the crack in the second and fourth pictures was probably done when removing the cams, not during shipping. I've seen this multiple times. Cam is lifted from the transmission end only and cracks the land like that. Some have said it doesn't really hurt anything, but that is also the thrust surface for the cam. Seems pretty important to me ;). Anyway, hope things work out for you.

Joe

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7mm or 6mm stems? I've got a set of the latter that I may not need..

Hey Ozzie. 1998 S70 Non Turby . B5254s . I may have interest. If I had the tool to remove the valves I would measure them. Everyone's got the rocker-style remover. NAPA had nothing at all but blank stares. Disadvantage Auto had a few particular styles, but the fingers have to fit under the lock ring and grab the spring...and there won't be enough room to do so since they are seated inside the cylinder. There's a punch-type tool I'd like to find..

[HTTP]http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-287369117248322292&hl=en[HTTP/]

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Those are 7mm stems. If you don't care about the head, or your hands, you can do what I did:

Getting the keepers off is the hard part. Once you do that, the spring retainer and spring come right out of the head and the valves are free to fall out of the combustion chamber.

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Those are 7mm stems. If you don't care about the head, or your hands, you can do what I did:

Getting the keepers off is the hard part. Once you do that, the spring retainer and spring come right out of the head and the valves are free to fall out of the combustion chamber.

Saw your homemade tool doesn't look bad. It looks like I'll be configuring my own tool so thanks for the link. Seeing how others tackled it helps the idea factory.. I already decided last night I'm going to Sears this AM to get a nice big C Clamp. I'll create a lug with a cutout design so I can have reinstall capabilities. I'll post a photo.

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Purchased a $15 eight inch C clamp from Sears. ... and created "The Gizmo"

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Used a nail at the end of the magnet. Good for delivering the magnet for pinpoint fishing and occasionally encouraging the keepers off.

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The intake lifters are kaput, exhaust lifters are ok

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This was actually incredibly simple and easy.

Who knows how to pull the valve stem seals out ?? like without a vale stem puller?

My gasket set came with new ones. May as well pop em in....

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