sdvdriver Posted April 6, 2011 Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 My 850 turbo is coming up on 121K miles, so I bought a timing belt and tensioner kit, water pump, and camshaft seals for preventative maintenance. My question is, how much time would it take for a 1st timer to do all this? I've changed the turbo, manifold and cv axles, so I kind of know my way around this car, but I've never done a timing belt job before. I've read a bit of the how-to's and from people's posts here, and it looks a bit intimidating. (wouldn't want to mess up my engine due to a bonehead move!) A local shop is quoting me at ~600 to do the job, but it seems a bit steep to me. Are there any precautions I need to take? Are the cam seals difficult to replace without some kind of special tool? My cam seals and water pump are fine, but after searching around on the forums, it seems like it would be a good thing to do since they might leak around the 150k mark, and I'd hate to have to go back into the side of the motor again for a $10 and $60 part. Any tips/suggestions? If it's possible for a noob to get it done in a weekend, I may try to tackle this instead of paying a shop. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the commissar! Posted April 6, 2011 Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 If you are reasonably competent, you can do it in a day taking your time (first time) but allow a weekend just in case. The timing belt and water pump are not really a problem just tedious at times but...BE AWARE: You will need some way to re-set the timing on the cams if you do the front seals since you have to take the sprockets off to get to the seals. I can think of several ways you might do that including special tools or a cam timing tool. Figure that out before you undo those sprokets or you will be in a pickle. Or just wait till they leak...there is no 150k rule...mine lasted a whole lot longer, yours may die today... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phunktified Posted April 6, 2011 Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 If you are reasonably competent, you can do it in a day taking your time (first time) but allow a weekend just in case. The timing belt and water pump are not really a problem just tedious at times but...BE AWARE: You will need some way to re-set the timing on the cams if you do the front seals since you have to take the sprockets off to get to the seals. I can think of several ways you might do that including special tools or a cam timing tool. Figure that out before you undo those sprokets or you will be in a pickle. Or just wait till they leak...there is no 150k rule...mine lasted a whole lot longer, yours may die today... hey my friend, getting my rig back together soon and I'm curious about reinstalling cam cover and cams with sprockets attatched.. What is the proper procedure for reseating the seals, will I want to remove the sprockets to install them conventionally or should I just position the seals while reinstalling the cam cover? This is one of the only bits I'm still unclear on for this whole fandango.. :monkey: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikv11 Posted April 6, 2011 Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 I repositioned the new cam seals when installing the cam cover. So I actually never removed the sprockets during the head reconditioning. I was very careful and attentive that the seals stay in place, but worked fine for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdvdriver Posted April 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 Thanks for the info! I'll check into the cam timing stuff and decide from there if I really need to do it. I really just want to change the pump and belt since the P.O. sorta slacked on maintenance, and I have no idea how many miles are on the current timing belt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the commissar! Posted April 6, 2011 Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 hey my friend, getting my rig back together soon and I'm curious about reinstalling cam cover and cams with sprockets attatched.. What is the proper procedure for reseating the seals, will I want to remove the sprockets to install them conventionally or should I just position the seals while reinstalling the cam cover? This is one of the only bits I'm still unclear on for this whole fandango.. I'd do this...I'm not sure how having the seals in place during assembly would impact proper seating/torquing of the cover especially if you are using makeshift tools. I cannot say what the proper way is but this would definitely not be wrong. Possibly abundantly cautions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phunktified Posted April 6, 2011 Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 I'd do this...I'm not sure how having the seals in place during assembly would impact proper seating/torquing of the cover especially if you are using makeshift tools. I cannot say what the proper way is but this would definitely not be wrong. Possibly abundantly cautions. Thats what I was figuring on, new seals, conventionally.. although I wasnt initially thinking I'd have to remove the sprockets when I took things apart On the flip side, I know alot of people use the cam holder tools to keep the cams attatched to the cover, so wouldnt they in fact be torqueing the cover with the seals in place during assembly? :huh: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the commissar! Posted April 6, 2011 Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 Thats what I was figuring on, new seals, conventionally.. although I wasnt initially thinking I'd have to remove the sprockets when I took things apart On the flip side, I know alot of people use the cam holder tools to keep the cams attatched to the cover, so wouldnt they in fact be torqueing the cover with the seals in place during assembly? My curiosity got the best of me so I used the search feature and I found info cribbed from VADIS which confirms my thoughts...see post #3 in this thread for details.no because the holder simply holds the cam to the cover...there are a couple of races that hold it longitudinally. Then once the top and bottom are "glued" together and properly torqued you do the seals... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gilhuly Posted April 6, 2011 Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 I'm sure the procedure is to take the sprockets off, but I never have and will bet my last dollar that it does not affect torque values. Do you know how many bolts there are on that cover? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cn90 Posted April 6, 2011 Report Share Posted April 6, 2011 SEARCH forum, is has been discussed 100x before. If you plan to keep the car long, then at 121K, I'd do the whole thing: - TB: Contitech is OEN - WP: Ainsi or Hepu - Tensioner: mechanical vs hydraulic (Ainsi) - Tensioner Pulley - Idler Pulley - FRONT cam seals x2: Volvo OEM - Crank seal x1: Volvo OEM - Change the thermostat too (Wahler or Behr). PS: If you have an air tool, then mark the TB first at TDC, then undo the crank bolt (just loosen it). Then undo the sprocket bolts. Then remove TB etc, This way the above bolts are loose by the time you need to remove the CAM Sprocket or CRANK Sprocket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the commissar! Posted April 7, 2011 Report Share Posted April 7, 2011 I'm sure the procedure is to take the sprockets off, but I never have and will bet my last dollar that it does not affect torque values. Do you know how many bolts there are on that cover? Not for sure without counting but it is a bunch maybe 28 or so? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troyhyde Posted April 8, 2011 Report Share Posted April 8, 2011 SEARCH forum, is has been discussed 100x before. If you plan to keep the car long, then at 121K, I'd do the whole thing: - TB: Contitech is OEN - WP: Ainsi or Hepu - Tensioner: mechanical vs hydraulic (Ainsi) - Tensioner Pulley - Idler Pulley - FRONT cam seals x2: Volvo OEM - Crank seal x1: Volvo OEM - Change the thermostat too (Wahler or Behr). PS: If you have an air tool, then mark the TB first at TDC, then undo the crank bolt (just loosen it). Then undo the sprocket bolts. Then remove TB etc, This way the above bolts are loose by the time you need to remove the CAM Sprocket or CRANK Sprocket. Review the above carefully. Personally, I would look at the timing belt components and not worry that much about the water pump and cam seals. No aftermarket cam seals will work as well as your ancient Volvo OEM's. These water pumps are hardy and seem to go a long way. 225-250k is probably not out of the question. Replacing the water pump is a pain (think gasket scraping in very limited sight areas) - I wouldn't bother unless it is leaking or feels weird when the belt is off and you spin it by hand. Spin the idler pulley and carefully inspect the tensioner. The idler pulley is probably getting worn out and will be a bit noisy and dry. DO NOT REPLACE CAM SEALS WITH ANYTHING BUT OEM VOLVO OR YOU WILL BE DOING THEM AGAIN! I think RMEuropean and EEuroparts carry OEM. If you do replace them, you'll have to remove the cam gears. I would suggest getting an IPD cam tool, check your settings prior to removal, then replace to original settings... Take your time, it is straight forward but requires a careful spot check before restarting the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cn90 Posted April 8, 2011 Report Share Posted April 8, 2011 If you don't want to do this job again for the next 80-100K, then do what I said above. WP lasts anywhere between 140-200K: http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=34639Sorry, Ignore Link above. The Link about WP lifespan should be this: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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