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Lots Of Misfire Codes After M56 Swap


98glt-5

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So I just swapped my m56 in 3 weeks ago. My car has never had any misfire codes ever before, after the manual swap itll happen at stoplights, decelerating down hills, not in boost, in boost, anytime, And its in all 5 cylinders according to the VST. If I even rev at an idle i can watch both knock sensors count go up to 2. I torqued the flywheel and pp to spec and greased all the pivot points, and put the volvo manual tranny fluid in the transmission. This is driving me insane, any ideas?

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So I just swapped my m56 in 3 weeks ago. My car has never had any misfire codes ever before, after the manual swap itll happen at stoplights, decelerating down hills, not in boost, in boost, anytime, And its in all 5 cylinders according to the VST. If I even rev at an idle i can watch both knock sensors count go up to 2. I torqued the flywheel and pp to spec and greased all the pivot points, and put the volvo manual tranny fluid in the transmission. This is driving me insane, any ideas?

Did you remove the TCU? if not start there.

If its anytime that sounds like a fuel problem, possibly spark..

I would start by checking your plugs for unusual wear and regapping/buying new ones. its a cheap fix and rules out a few problems..

let us know

your buddy,

LB

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Could be crank sensor related... If the sensor sits a few thousandths further away from the trigger ring on the manual bellhousing, it may have thrown it off.

Remedy for that? Try another crank sensor, if not then try shaving down the mounting flange on the sensor itself to get it a little closer to the trigger ring.

Just where I would look... If it didn't do this before, and it's not only doing it at peak boost, it's more than likely not plugs. Check to make sure no plug wires got damaged in the swap, check to make sure all the connections in and around and pertaining to the coil and its power stage are secure and intact.

Think about anything you touched that could have been disrupted during the swap. All intercooler hose connections intact? Vacuum line to FPR?

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Ahhh crank sensor. I forgot about that little guy. It makes sense now. The cap/rotor/plugs/wires and coil are all new, triple checked them. I even pulled the plugs Saturday to check them out. All are good, only have about 10k on them, no flaking on them at all thank god, went through that with my stupid DSM. Im going to check the crank sensor, I drove around with the fuel pressure guage no problems there. the crank sensor makes the most sense to me, Ill report back after I check it on lunch break. Is there a difference between manual and auto ones, the mount I mean, not the sensor.

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Ahhh crank sensor. I forgot about that little guy. It makes sense now. The cap/rotor/plugs/wires and coil are all new, triple checked them. I even pulled the plugs Saturday to check them out. All are good, only have about 10k on them, no flaking on them at all thank god, went through that with my stupid DSM. Im going to check the crank sensor, I drove around with the fuel pressure guage no problems there. the crank sensor makes the most sense to me, Ill report back after I check it on lunch break. Is there a difference between manual and auto ones, the mount I mean, not the sensor.

I doubt it. I didn't change mine (CPS mount) when I did my M66 install, and have had no such issues.

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I left a part out of my original problem like an idiot and it all makes more sense now. Every once in a while the car would just cut out like someone shut the key off, but then pick right back up where it left off. It's gotta be the crank sensor, if it didn't do that i'd think differently. Could be wishfull thinking that it's the sensor but its easy enough to get to so I'm gonna give it a run, may as well do the easy things first.

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Check that your knock senors are tight. I removed mine when I swapped my car because I didn't think to just unplug them from the wiring harness. Didn't have one tight when I put it all back together and it through it in to limp mode for knock events. Doesn't sound like what you have going on but its work a look.

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I left a part out of my original problem like an idiot and it all makes more sense now. Every once in a while the car would just cut out like someone shut the key off, but then pick right back up where it left off. It's gotta be the crank sensor, if it didn't do that i'd think differently. Could be wishfull thinking that it's the sensor but its easy enough to get to so I'm gonna give it a run, may as well do the easy things first.

That makes sense - moving the CPS harness during the install would easily account for the symptom - I had a CPS fail when I was working in my intake plumbing - I just moved theCPS integral harness with the engine running, and it died immediately. Restarted fine, moved the harness again, car dies. Replaced sensor, all good.

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Definitely makes sense to me, I'm going to wiggle the harness with it running, if that doesn't make it stall im gonna pull it out and shave a little off to get it closer. I'll let you guys know, just incase this happens to someone else down the road.

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I doubt it. I didn't change mine (CPS mount) when I did my M66 install, and have had no such issues.

Seems to happen with some people but not with others. I've never personally had issues, just read about them.

It may just happen when peoples' sensors are on the ragged edge of the end of their life span, and the slight differences between the trigger ring on the flexplate and the trigger holes on the flywheel sides worsens its functionality with the flywheel.

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Seems to happen with some people but not with others. I've never personally had issues, just read about them.

It may just happen when peoples' sensors are on the ragged edge of the end of their life span, and the slight differences between the trigger ring on the flexplate and the trigger holes on the flywheel sides worsens its functionality with the flywheel.

I'm thinking mine may be on its way out, its got 150k on it. I shaved a little off the spot where the sensor sits in the bracket and I'll see what happens tonight, if not I think I might just replace it. I drove a little and no codes so far.

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