850T5M Posted April 28, 2011 Report Share Posted April 28, 2011 Hey guys, I know this was discussed already, but I keep finding threads about turbo swaps + manifold swaps. My question is, Im gonna be switching my 15G for a 16T angled housing with an OBX exhaust. I currently have the turbo, full exhaust, new oil cooler lines (return and feed), I have about 8 copper crush washers, I believe I have the oil return O-ring. What else will I need? Rubber hangers will fit with the new exhaust? Do I need new studs/nuts for the turbo or the 2 on the manifold? Anyone have any good tips while doing the swap, and how long does it take approx (on the side of my house)? Thanks! Edit: Most posts say to change the 10 studs/nuts/washers of the manifold to block, but how bout the manifold to turbo studs/nuts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jaxx Posted April 28, 2011 Report Share Posted April 28, 2011 you need 3 studs and 3 nuts for the downpipe, and also 4 studs and 4 nuts for the manifold. (total of 7 each) If you're not touching the manifold, you don't need to replace anything on the block. devote a day to it, and don't be afraid to attack some of those bolts with a torch, they get seated in really well. I could probably do a turbo swap in 4 hours, but I've done 2, first time I'd guess maybe 6-8 hours if you're taking your sweet time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
850T5M Posted April 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2011 So i just went outside and loosened 3 DP nuts, and the top 2 turbo/manifold nuts. They arent caked that badly...got them off with not much force, just some WD40. Anyone have the part number for the studs/nuts I need? Is it 100% necessary to replace them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T5wagon1717 Posted April 29, 2011 Report Share Posted April 29, 2011 Just take stud out for the mani, and if you put a different mani on, you can get the studs at a hardware store Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98t5M Posted April 29, 2011 Report Share Posted April 29, 2011 You may need longer rubber hangers at the rear end of the exhaust. Autozone has them for a few bucks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
--Aaron-- Posted April 29, 2011 Report Share Posted April 29, 2011 Be gentle with the hard oil feed line, take your time aligning it with the new turbo. I managed to break mine when I swapped turbos not too long ago, another $40 down the drain. :lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
850T5M Posted April 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2011 Be gentle with the hard oil feed line, take your time aligning it with the new turbo. I managed to break mine when I swapped turbos not too long ago, another $40 down the drain. I have a brand new return and feed line...shouldnt break. Ill be careful, I promise Only line I'm worried about is the coolant feed line...its so rusted and probably brittle. Hope she doesnt snap on me, I dont have another Its the metal hard line that passes right behind the valve cover, I guess its the coolant feed :S Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
--Aaron-- Posted April 29, 2011 Report Share Posted April 29, 2011 I have a brand new return and feed line...shouldnt break. Ill be careful, I promise Only line I'm worried about is the coolant feed line...its so rusted and probably brittle. Hope she doesnt snap on me, I dont have another Its the metal hard line that passes right behind the valve cover, I guess its the coolant feed :S Good move, the ID of the feed line is pretty small and who knows what kind of gunk is in them after 100K + miles. Plus it's nice seeing that line brand new....I'm weird. I posted this in another thread but did you know that when Volvo sells a customer a turbo they will not warranty it unless the hard oil feed line is replaced as well because of the potential for blockage reusing the old line. At least that is true for my local Volvo dealer. I would imagine the rule spreads across the board though. You can actually leave that line connected to the turbo, best thing to do IMO is to cut that brittle rubber hose (a few inches long) and remove the turbo with the section of hard line attached. That will also give you a great opportunity to replace that little section of rubber hose. It'll leak at some point if it's original. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
850T5M Posted April 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2011 Thanks aaron, i was looking at it last night and thats the exact idea i had. I got new coolant rubbers so its perfect Cant believe the exhaust is finally going in. Its 8-9 months its staring at me in my bedroom lmao Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
--Aaron-- Posted April 29, 2011 Report Share Posted April 29, 2011 No problem, best of luck with the adventure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnum46 Posted April 29, 2011 Report Share Posted April 29, 2011 Hi, Gonna piggy back on this thread. What turbo can I easily swap to from a stock 97 850 T5 Auto? What are some of the options that will maximize stock injectors, and a 19PSI ST Tune? Just looking for the most bang for the buck without having to touch other parts of the car... Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
850T5M Posted April 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2011 Ok so 9 hours later, the exhaust is in! Sounds like utter crap lmao I have to fix all the leaks and rattles this week. I had a question tho. I lowered my MBC to 7psi for safety/testing. I havent raised it yet, but the car reacts kinda weird. It just doesnt pull till around 4k rpm, instead of like 3.2k rpm. Also, I dont hear the CBV going swoosh after I let off the throttle :S The turbo I installed is a angled 16T with an OBX exhaust. I also put a new IPD HD CBV. Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted April 30, 2011 Report Share Posted April 30, 2011 Less backpressure with the larger angle flange = later spool it's still a small turbo, though - you should be seeing full boost much closer to 3K, I did even with a angle flange 19T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
850T5M Posted April 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2011 That makes a little bit of sense, I had read that the HP range will be pushed higher up in the rpm band. Im kinda more worried about the no Swoosh from the CBV...how would I know of it wasn't recirculating? Would it make a weird noise? Also, the turbo hot side was white like snow after driving it hard, ive seen red, but never white...anyone experience this? Edit: Maybe I just had to push the gas harder lol...I was kinda skeptical about pushing it right after installing the turbo/exhaust. Im gonna get used to it this week and fix the leaks...I have to install my Wideband also as soon as possible. We'll see how it goes. Any idea on the CBV tho? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
850T5M Posted April 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2011 I made a new thread so others can join in, with a better title... Thx! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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