Zappo Posted May 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2011 Ok, new problem. Seemed to run just fine when I got home yesterday. Today I start it up and it runs like crap. AFRs are going to 16 at idle, but bouncing from 14 to 16. It eventually settled down as it warmed up. Driving it though, it is misfiring and appears to be going lean. At idle it acts like it has a vacuum leak, but a leak would make it to rich, not lean. Can't find anything disconnected and everything is pretty much new. Pulled the plugs and they all look good. Since I had them out, I did a compression test and it was 180 across on cylinders. Codes are for misfires and P0171 lean. I might try changing the front O2 sensor, but I don't have a spare so I will have to get one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zappo Posted May 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2011 Oh, and it is 20" vacuum at idle, and that is the same when it was running correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mdlimy Posted May 30, 2011 Report Share Posted May 30, 2011 Ok, new problem. Seemed to run just fine when I got home yesterday. Today I start it up and it runs like crap. AFRs are going to 16 at idle, but bouncing from 14 to 16. It eventually settled down as it warmed up. Driving it though, it is misfiring and appears to be going lean. At idle it acts like it has a vacuum leak, but a leak would make it to rich, not lean. Can't find anything disconnected and everything is pretty much new. Pulled the plugs and they all look good. Since I had them out, I did a compression test and it was 180 across on cylinders. Codes are for misfires and P0171 lean. I might try changing the front O2 sensor, but I don't have a spare so I will have to get one. a vacuum leak will run lean, not rich....but your vacuum reading makes it sound like not a vacuum leak although i wouldnt rule it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zappo Posted May 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2011 a vacuum leak will run lean, not rich....but your vacuum reading makes it sound like not a vacuum leak although i wouldnt rule it out. Vacuum leaks tend to throw P0172 codes, which is rich. You would think it would be lean, but I have never seen it on a car with a leak. I swapped out the O2 sensor for a new one, but not sure that solved the problem. It seemed to still be there on the first test drive after install, but after I ate and went out again, it ran fine. I did pull the ECU and plug it back in also, so maybe that was it. I have a feeling that the problem hasn't been solved yet. MBC seems to be working, although I still hit 13 psi with it as far down as it will go. Not sure what the wastegate actuator is set at, but I have a feeling it is over 10 and I might also be getting boost creep. However, it is far more driveable for autocross right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herz3mc Posted May 31, 2011 Report Share Posted May 31, 2011 Got to ride along with Zappo at the autocross today and the car is quite impressive. The grip with the LSD is such a huge improvement - he was really able to power through pieces of the course that would just spin the wheel before. The turbo hits really hard and the pulls like mad. I think we need to fix our one wheel drive Thanks for the ride along. m Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zappo Posted May 31, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2011 I think we need to fix our one wheel drive Funny you say that because Chris was talking to me about it when I arrived today. A few things from the autocross. The addition of the MBC made the car much more drivable at the event. The turbo lag was killing me, so I am ordering the .63 exhaust housing right now. That should solve my problem for the most part because the boost would come on at 3500 RPM and I needed it around 3000. The lag wasn't as bad people said it would be, but I am sure I lost a few seconds because of it. When the boost did come on though it went from 3500 to redline very quickly. The LSD was awesome and I highly recommend it. Ran the MBC around 18 psi today, which is similar to the stage III setup I had, but I barely ever lost traction today. I would have been spinning one wheel 20% of the time on the old setup. BTW, I got pulled over on the drive home tonight. Wasn't speeding, it was the tinted plate cover again. I forgot about it when I had put it on for the iPd show. Just a warning, and before he let me go he said, "Hey, this is a really nice car." Thanks. It is like the 4th time I have been pulled over for it, which is the reason I don't normally have it on. Not sure what the deal was with the car yesterday, but I never had those problems today. Maybe it was the O2 sensor I replaced, or maybe it is something else that just happened to work fine today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zappo Posted June 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 Finished installing the new .63 A/R housing on the turbo over the weekend. Pain in the butt since it took me most of the weekend to do, but it is done. Most of it was learning what I needed to do to remove this turbo as it is a pretty tight fit and the water and oil lines are not easy to remove, more importantly, install again. Don't have any pictures yet, but there wasn't much of a change. I couldn't see a difference at all with the .82 vs the .63 housings, other than the .82 had ".82" cast into it. The .63 had something cast in as well, but it was covered up for some reason. I was hoping it was the correct one and I wasn't going through all of this for nothing. Note for the future, always mark the turbo alignment before separating. I didn't and pretty much wasted most of a day trying to find the correct alignment again. The GT30 isn't as easy to do as the Mitsu turbos, so I had to pull it each time I needed to adjust, then put it back in to test. The water and oil connections are so tight on this car you have to line it up perfectly to make it all work. Finally got it all together and took it out for a test. It spools sooner, not 3000 but more like 3100 or 3200. Much better than the .82 though for my needs. It also improved the low RPM drivability of the car, which is something I will enjoy every day. So far, I am happy with the results. I could possibly drop it to 3000 RPM if I ported the exhaust housing to the manifold. I can see it on the housing I just removed. The R manifold has been machined to remove the raised part for the stock turbos. I will leave that for something to mess with in the future if I need to pull the turbo again. Too much work to do right now. I also installed a heat shield on the turbo while it was out. I had to modify it to fit the internal wastegate I am using. I can post a picutre of it on the car later. One last thing, I think my lean issue is actually the MAF. It fired up and ran fine the first time when I finished. I let it idle for 10 minutes checking for leaks, then shut it off and went upstairs to get cleaned up before taking a test drive. Started it again and the problem was back even worse than before. It barely wanted to idle at all and I thought I had missed a clamp and had a big air leak. Everything was tight though. I tapped on the MAF with my flashlight and it started running better. Not where it should, but noticably better. Smacked it a few more times and it mostly went away, so I will try cleaning the MAF first, and if that doesn't work replace it. Until then I will carry a little deadblow hammer to do the redneck fix. :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackT5 Posted June 6, 2011 Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 Did you Loosen both the compressor and turbine housings? That would allow all the center cartridge to rotate freely from the housings so you could get it lined up. I know mine is a bit of a bitch with the lines also, things have to go on in a specific order and there is little to no room to get your hands or a wrench in there. Very nice to hear about the Quaife. I'm dying to install mine, just need to get a singlemass clutch! When do you hit full boost? I can make 7psi at 3k under heavy load but won't normally see full boost til 4k. The 3076R was my turbo of choice at the time but came upon a deal on the 35R that I couldn't pass up. Ideally, I think the smaller turbo would be better suited for the street. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zappo Posted June 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 Well, I thought about it but I didn't want to mess with the compressor side. Josh had some AN fittings installed for the water connections so I can take it off there without trying to mess with the banjo bolts. When we first installed the engine one of those bolts was loose and coolant was pouring out as we filled. It was a pain to tighten in the car. As it turns out, even the lower AN fitting is a pain to get back on, so I ended up pulling both water lines off the car with the turbo as well as the upper oil line. Once the turbo is on the top of the engine it is a lot easier to remove. I don't like the fact that everything is standard also and not metric. On the .82 housing I would see maybe 2-3 psi at 3k but it really wouldn't start climbing until 3500. At 4000 there are no spool issues at all. I have a log were it goes from 0 psi at 4500 to 25 psi at 4800 RPM, so drag racing with it would be awesome. I haven't tested it much with the new housing, but I suspect it is down around 3600. I didn't bring the laptop along when I tested it last night so I didn't log. Michelle rode along with me during the last autocross and was really impressed with the Quaife. Chris was already talking to me about it when I got to the autocross, so there might be one in the future for the battle wagon. :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JDMS60R Posted June 6, 2011 Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 Cool George I'm glad you got that swapped out and that it made a big difference. Looking for a co-driver for time only this Sunday.? The LSD has totally changed your car, powering out the corner is a million times better for sure.,to bad you didn't have this all done 3 months ago, oh well still 5 more events to go. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zappo Posted June 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 I just emailed you about co-driving your car. I will say that I dropped 2 seconds in fun runs just because the tires warmed up. That combined with the new exhaust housing could have put me in the 55 second range instead of the 59. I might have to go big time and get tire warmers. :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dublin14 Posted June 6, 2011 Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 What did you have before this setup? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zappo Posted June 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 What did you have before this setup? IPD Stage III with automatic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dublin14 Posted June 7, 2011 Report Share Posted June 7, 2011 IPD Stage III with automatic. Going by the butt dyno this is big jump over the 18T for you then. Im always interested to see the response from guys that came from an 18T setup to a turbo like a 3076 which is similar to what I have HP wise now up to 22-24psi. After that the 3076R has a litte more on the top, but 24psi is as far as I will go if that. I also had an 18T stage 3 setup prior so it makes it even more interesting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zappo Posted June 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2011 Going by the butt dyno this is big jump over the 18T for you then. Im always interested to see the response from guys that came from an 18T setup to a turbo like a 3076 which is similar to what I have HP wise now up to 22-24psi. After that the 3076R is has a litte more on the top b ut 24psi is as far as I will go if that. I also had a 18T stage 3 setup prior so it makes it even more interesting. Well, I also went from auto to manual with LSD, so part of what I am feeling is the power gain from that also. i also don't see a need to go above 24 psi, and I would really only go that far just for some dyno numbers. Way too much power for autocross and I have the current setup limited to 17-18 psi. I might have to adjust that again with the new exhaust housing. I noticed a big difference even at the lower boost numbers. 10 psi on this setup feels like 15-16 on the old stage III with auto. Still in the process of tuning it so there is more to gain. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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