FAST850R Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 Hello, This morning, I found black oil under my car. I jacked it up and checked it. I found a small crack where the oil pan and transmission housing meet. Right next to the transmission mount. I don't know how it got cracked.... What is my option to fix this problem? Can I use a some kind of metal sealant?? Here are few pictures of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dimka18 Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 Looks like the Rear main crank seal took a dump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FAST850R Posted May 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 Looks like the Rear main crank seal took a dump. If you look at the pictures, there is a hole. Is it supposed to be like that? I checked the real main seal, and it seemed fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmorse Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 That hole is a weep for the rear main seal. If oil is coming out of it, your RMS took a dump, s stated above. Sorry man. :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FAST850R Posted May 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 Oh, ok. My bad. I guess the real main seal is gone, then. Um....is it going to be worse? Can I drive like this for a while? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zappo Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 Um....is it going to be worse? Can I drive like this for a while? Yes and yes. :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Betty Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 BEFORE you say its the RMS check the cam seals They like to leak down onto the tranny and appear as an RMS leak. Pull your distributor and the cam position sensor. You should also be able to see if they are leaking by just looking at the side of the head. I recommend cleaning the head and checking back in a few days to see if any buildup has occured. It would suck to have the RMS replaced only to learn it was some cheap cam seals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FAST850R Posted May 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 BEFORE you say its the RMS check the cam seals They like to leak down onto the tranny and appear as an RMS leak. Pull your distributor and the cam position sensor. You should also be able to see if they are leaking by just looking at the side of the head. I recommend cleaning the head and checking back in a few days to see if any buildup has occured. It would suck to have the RMS replaced only to learn it was some cheap cam seals. cam seals are on the timing belt side, correct? I think it's been leaking because when I replaced the timing belt, I saw wetness below water pump area. Um....if it's the RMS, I guess it's time for manual swap? I think one of a members here can do it at his house. I don't know how much he charges though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Betty Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 cam seals are on the timing belt side, correct? I think it's been leaking because when I replaced the timing belt, I saw wetness below water pump area. Um....if it's the RMS, I guess it's time for manual swap? I think one of a members here can do it at his house. I don't know how much he charges though. there are cam seals on the timing side and the transmission side. The timing side IIRC is refered to as the front cam seals and the other side as the Rear cam seals. If you replace the RMS and have the $$ to manual swap by all means do it, there's not a better time. If you remove the timing belt cover (one 10mm or 12mm bolt) you can see better where the wetness is coming from. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FAST850R Posted May 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 there are cam seals on the timing side and the transmission side. The timing side IIRC is refered to as the front cam seals and the other side as the Rear cam seals. If you replace the RMS and have the $$ to manual swap by all means do it, there's not a better time. If you remove the timing belt cover (one 10mm or 12mm bolt) you can see better where the wetness is coming from. Thanks for the info. I have been using synthetic for about a year...should I change it to conventional oil for now so the leak can be less? or it doesn't really matter anymore. Yeah...I am thinking what I should do with my car. I can sell it for cheap...or pay $1000 to fix the RMS issue, or bring it to a member here and do manual swap... But it's either I will sell it or pay a mechanic to do it since I don't have time and a place to do it myself... I really hope it's not RMS issue... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 You can try switching oil grades and types to see if any help. Also as a slim chance you can try an auto-rx treatment. How is your PCV system? That can also cause this to leak more. You could drive the car like this forever, just keep adding oil and only change the filter. I have been doing the same on my T5M just because i have not gotten the time to get it on the lift yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FAST850R Posted May 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 You can try switching oil grades and types to see if any help. Also as a slim chance you can try an auto-rx treatment. How is your PCV system? That can also cause this to leak more. You could drive the car like this forever, just keep adding oil and only change the filter. I have been doing the same on my T5M just because i have not gotten the time to get it on the lift yet. I have one bottle of auto rx. I am going to change the oil to conventional one and see whether it helps. The entire PCV system was replaced 1 year ago. Change the filter every 3000 miles correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 sure 3K whatever, up to you. I wouldnt go that extreme but filters are cheap... you can also try a high mileage which MIGHT help. Also going with a 40-50 weight also MIGHT help. It's all just a very slim chance much of anything will help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_HighVoltage_ Posted May 13, 2011 Report Share Posted May 13, 2011 Here is how I fixed my RMS. It was leaking exactly like yours. I was losing 1 quart per 1000 miles. 1. Switch to Valvoline MaxLife (semi-synth) 10w-40 2. Remove flame trap (if you haven't already) 3. Add bottle of Bar's Rear Main Seal Fix and drive the car for at least 100 miles without turning off the engine. I underlined that part because it was the most crucial step for my car. Previous attempts didn't work because I didn't let the engine run long enough. My result is that for the past year I have not seen a single drop of oil in my driveway and I haven't had to top up at all. Some people are against using Bar's stuff in their engine or any other additives. That's completely up to you. I'm just telling you my story, and how I saved $600. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted May 13, 2011 Report Share Posted May 13, 2011 2. Remove flame trap (if you haven't already) If hes got a turbo then no flame trap... All the rest sounds like good advice as it's all just a crap shoot and if you are willing to screw around with it then heck no reason not to! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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