FAST850R Posted May 29, 2011 Report Share Posted May 29, 2011 Hi, I have 1996 850R and I changed oil from 10w-30 synthetic to 20w-50 conventional oil. Is it ok for the engine? Real main seal is leaking so I wanted to see whether changing oil would help. It is leaking much less, but I don't know whether the oil is ok for the engine. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vagabond Posted May 29, 2011 Report Share Posted May 29, 2011 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FAST850R Posted May 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 29, 2011 Hum....it should be ok for 3000miles. I'll change it to 15w-40 after 3000miles. Thanks for the link. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted May 29, 2011 Report Share Posted May 29, 2011 How much do you go through due to the RMS? If you are adding oil then you can extand you OCI. I go 10k due to my RMS leak since i add a Qt every 1K. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jablackburn Posted May 29, 2011 Report Share Posted May 29, 2011 That's thick as hell; I wouldn't use that once it gets colder again. 20W-50 is mostly for older engines that burn a lot of oil - most engines are designed for much thinner oils. I had a Saab that did NOT like 20w-50 run in it - it got very noisy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
misa Posted May 29, 2011 Report Share Posted May 29, 2011 It would be ok if your car is non-turbo.Turbo models needs synthetic or at least semi-synthetic oils because of the turbo. In non-turbo engines 20w-50 would be ok as long as ambient temperatures alows you.That said...if ambient(outside)temperature is in range from -5 to 40 degrees Celsius it would be ok.If it's colder than -5C i wouldn't use it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanVee Posted May 29, 2011 Report Share Posted May 29, 2011 How much do you go through due to the RMS? If you are adding oil then you can extand you OCI. I go 10k due to my RMS leak since i add a Qt every 1K. No. The rest of the oil in your crankcase is still breaking down, and regular oil changes are still necessary. Your oil filter is still filling up with crud, too. I know it seems like that would make sense because you;re putting "fresh" oil in, but...it doesn't really work that way. I'm sure my reply to this will cause controversy and 80 people will tell me I'm wrong, but I know better. If you're using a good synthetic and a GOOD oil filter (wix, purolator, oem possibly, amsoil) you don't need to change your oil until 7500 anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted May 30, 2011 Report Share Posted May 30, 2011 No. The rest of the oil in your crankcase is still breaking down, and regular oil changes are still necessary. Your oil filter is still filling up with crud, too. I know it seems like that would make sense because you;re putting "fresh" oil in, but...it doesn't really work that way. I'm sure my reply to this will cause controversy and 80 people will tell me I'm wrong, but I know better. If you're using a good synthetic and a GOOD oil filter (wix, purolator, oem possibly, amsoil) you don't need to change your oil until 7500 anyway. Your opinion, just go and do more reading and you will see why I do what I do. I stated OCI not filter change. I change the filter out more often IF the motor isnt that clean. 5K-8K for the filter. As for the oil, the quick info is that you are raising the additive pack in the oil back up with the added Qt. If you look at most oil analysis you will see the primary reason for oil changes is due to depleted additives. As it is 10K OCI is perfectly fine if you are using a quality synthetic, your PCV system is working and you do 50%+ highway driving. Personally I don't do many start and stop city driving. It's all highway most times. Even if I didnt have to add a Qt every 1K, I would still be running 8K-10K OCIs. Anyway, I have done my time with research and that's up to the individual person to figure out what's really going on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted May 30, 2011 Report Share Posted May 30, 2011 It would be ok if your car is non-turbo.Turbo models needs synthetic or at least semi-synthetic oils because of the turbo. In non-turbo engines 20w-50 would be ok as long as ambient temperatures alows you.That said...if ambient(outside)temperature is in range from -5 to 40 degrees Celsius it would be ok.If it's colder than -5C i wouldn't use it. Nope, not really, you are fine with a dino oil IF you do correct OCIs. Dino is perfectly fine as long as you understand that you wont be able to run it for as long as a full syn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanVee Posted May 30, 2011 Report Share Posted May 30, 2011 Your opinion, just go and do more reading and you will see why I do what I do. I stated OCI not filter change. I change the filter out more often IF the motor isnt that clean. 5K-8K for the filter. As for the oil, the quick info is that you are raising the additive pack in the oil back up with the added Qt. If you look at most oil analysis you will see the primary reason for oil changes is due to depleted additives. As it is 10K OCI is perfectly fine if you are using a quality synthetic, your PCV system is working and you do 50%+ highway driving. Personally I don't do many start and stop city driving. It's all highway most times. Even if I didnt have to add a Qt every 1K, I would still be running 8K-10K OCIs. Anyway, I have done my time with research and that's up to the individual person to figure out what's really going on. All true. As long as you're changing out the filter and the oil isn't black, you're doing alright (I know you know that) I do a LOT of city driving and short distances, so even though I run a full synthetic and a good wix filter, I still have to change my oil something like twice a year. It has cleaned up considerably from when I first had the car, though. It's getting to be about time again..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FAST850R Posted May 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2011 Thank you for all the advice. Yes, my car is turbo, but I think it should be fine with the oil for now till 3000miles. The weather here is not really extreme and I don't drive my car hard, well for now. I'll change the oil to semi synthetic when next oil and filter change. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted May 30, 2011 Report Share Posted May 30, 2011 Thank you for all the advice. Yes, my car is turbo, but I think it should be fine with the oil for now till 3000miles. The weather here is not really extreme and I don't drive my car hard, well for now. I'll change the oil to semi synthetic when next oil and filter change. Don't bother with semi-syn. Just go full or dino, in between is just a joke in my opinion... just half assing it :lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanVee Posted May 30, 2011 Report Share Posted May 30, 2011 Don't bother with semi-syn. Just go full or dino, in between is just a joke in my opinion... just half assing it I hate to do a "me too" post but yeah, I agree, go full or nothing at all. Turbo engines benefit the MOST from full synthetics of any gasoline engines. They run hotter and harder on a regular basis. I won't make any recommendations, but many of the current production synthetics are very good oils. The only one I caution against is Castrol because it's actually not a "true" synthetic in the way that most synthetics are. For the same price, there are other brands that ARE true synthetics. This is not my information - this is information I got from someone who imports and tests oil and is an expert in the field. Whether or not it's "that big" of a difference I don't know, but...with that info...might as well get something else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted May 30, 2011 Report Share Posted May 30, 2011 Almost all off the shelf "synthetic" is not true synthetic. Its not just Castrol that made the switch. Actually Castrol is one of the only "regular consumer" oils that still make the GC series that is true synthetic. Dont get me wrobg though as i dont recommend any brand of oil as its all personal prefference unless your in a fighting mood haha. Use any name brand synthetic and a quality oil filter and you cant go wrong. Even dino is fine, just change your OCI accordingly. Just to name a few off the top of my head: True group-4 synthetic: Amsoil Redline Royal purple German castrol Hydrocracked group-3 "fake" synthetic: Mobil1 Castrol Penzoil Valvoline And pretty much any house brands (although the are likly made from one of the above companies) Feel free to ad to the list as thats just off the top of my head without doing much thinking haha! Also keep in mind that the group-3 synthetics are fine, its just something to keep in mind thats all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanVee Posted May 30, 2011 Report Share Posted May 30, 2011 Almost all off the shelf "synthetic" is not true synthetic. Its not just Castrol that made the switch. Actually Castrol is one of the only "regular consumer" oils that still make the GC series that is true synthetic. Dont get me wrobg though as i dont recommend any brand of oil as its all personal prefference unless your in a fighting mood haha. Use any name brand synthetic and a quality oil filter and you cant go wrong. Even dino is fine, just change your OCI accordingly. Just to name a few off the top of my head: True group-4 synthetic: Amsoil Redline Royal purple German castrol Hydrocracked group-3 "fake" synthetic: Mobil1 Castrol Penzoil Valvoline And pretty much any house brands (although the are likly made from one of the above companies) Feel free to ad to the list as thats just off the top of my head without doing much thinking haha! Also keep in mind that the group-3 synthetics are fine, its just something to keep in mind thats all. I'm so glad there are other people who know this. Sometimes I think almost everyone relies on anecdotal evidence and hearsay. Big - you might like his write-up. He makes a few points related to Corvairs, but the information is general enough to be good for any car, really. http://www.widman.biz/Corvair/English/Links/Oil.html (discalimer, I did not write this. Richard Widman did. I take NO credit for it.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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