Jack8745 Posted June 5, 2011 Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 ok replaced my alternator. 13.97v are coming out of it at idle optima red battery the battery only shows charging at 12.5v plus the positive cable is hot to the touch. WTF? what am i missing here, i been having to jump it all the time because the battery isnt getting charged Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
--Aaron-- Posted June 5, 2011 Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 i would say volt drop your alt to battery cables but it sounds like theyre shot due to the heat the hot to the touch means uber resistance and it will completely kill the battery if left go Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack8745 Posted June 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 you're right after i posted last i went out and did some investigating and found this after i pulled off the "corrosion sleve" the charging went from 12.5 to 13.5 i ruled out corrosion because of the optima - i was wrong anyone know the part number for this cable or is it the whole harness? if the whole harness then does anyone recommend any good terminals? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bergmjs Posted June 5, 2011 Report Share Posted June 5, 2011 You already have your answer, that cable should not be hot. Replace it asap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
--Aaron-- Posted June 6, 2011 Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 There's actually two cables between the alternator and battery. The one in your picture meets the other at the starter. My guess is that the other cable is shot as well but that's just a theory. I would replace the one pictured and then volt drop from the alternator to battery, that will tell you if the other needs replaced. Their are P/N's in my Voltage thread, it's in the maint. section linked in the common repairs thread which is stickied at the top. You can make your own, I opted to just buy one because I am impatient and it was easier. If you do buy a new, Genuine cable it will come in it's own wire loom and protective wrap because it's designed to route outside of the engine harness. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted June 6, 2011 Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 Just replace the fitting. Cut, clean crimp/solder on a new end. A lot cheaper and quicker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
--Aaron-- Posted June 6, 2011 Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 I'm going to have to respectfully disagree with that. Who knows what kind of nasty corrosion is going on under the cable's covering for the 2 feet or so that it runs. It'd be a shame to replace the end only to find that there is still massive voltage drop going on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keaton85 Posted June 6, 2011 Report Share Posted June 6, 2011 True, BUT the thing is, when you replace the fitting you will have to cut back the exposed wiring to get to the hopefully clean wiring under the sheathing. You can even cut back the sheathing to inspect it before even buying the fitting. If it's clean for the first half inch then it will be for the rest of the run. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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