Johann Posted June 10, 2011 Report Share Posted June 10, 2011 Didn't realize it was an S60. Thought 850. Still I don't think the rear should be that stiff. At least the tire pressure setting should be changed as suggested. For autoX sell the S60 because it's turning radius is gigantic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzimark Posted June 10, 2011 Report Share Posted June 10, 2011 Johann, did you edit what you said? I could swear your post said the opposite when I read it earlier A firmer front is just gonna make his problem worse! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johann Posted June 10, 2011 Report Share Posted June 10, 2011 Johann, did you edit what you said? I could swear your post said the opposite when I read it earlier A firmer front is just gonna make his problem worse! No, didn't edit and I said firmer front and softer rear. Totally against Civic settings yes. But that is also because I don't like an overly happy rear of the car. I like the car to turn in a bit heavier and the rear to slowly initiate a slide. I grew up with Civics and then changed to Volvo and to me the impression with the Volvo's have always been that the "turning center" of the Volvo never was in the middle but more somewhere between the engine and the driver. The whole car is hanging on the front wheels so to speak. Maybe I adjusted my driving style to match this behavior and maybe this is why I never really made such a big issue of the understeering behavior a higher powered FWD car often shows. For the suspension I mostly concentrate on traction. With KW's I adjust the rebound adjustable shocks in such a way that wheels are between hop and spin when launching hard. Camber set to negative. Depending on suspension used this is often between -0.5 and little over -1 degree but because it is a street car this is enough. More negative will make it a very nervous exercise in daily traffic. For the S60's I have driven 3 S60's. One R and two T5's. For the R I used Eibach Prokit and IPD Track spec sways. Added 10 mm spacers and balance was good with 4C being the main deal breaker. For both the T5's I used the Prokit combined with Koni shocks. Rear set to 270-360 degree from full stiff. Front adjusted for wheel spin/hop like mentioned. Looking at the settings I would say the front was set 180 to 270 degree from full stiff. These settings gave me a very nice mix between good high speed, 135 mph+, stability and quick cornering response. On tight corners the car showed understeer partly due to a missing LSD and due to the extreme turning radius of the car. Often it felt like the corner was to harp for the steering capability of the car and the only way to overcome this was to change the driving habits. Knowing when to apply throttle is a large part of those habits. Tire pressure depends a bit but the only time I used low pressure in the front and very high pressure in the rear was during drag racing. All other same pressure front rear to a couple of point lower in the rear. With different tires sometimes near no pressure in the rear. ;) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzimark Posted June 10, 2011 Report Share Posted June 10, 2011 Nice descriptive post, I'm glad there are at least a few people around here who actually have experience with different suspension setups on these cars. At the end of the day, it all comes down to personal preference and making it work for your driving style, doesn't it? :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keep Calm Chive On Posted June 10, 2011 Report Share Posted June 10, 2011 back to sway bars, they work in the 4th power in terms of stiffness 21mm sway (stock) = 24*24*24*24 = 194481 23mm (ipd rear) = 23*23*23*23 = 279841 In terms of stiffness, a 2mm difference sounds small but in actuality is 43.89% stiffer than the stock sway bar. 25mm (P80 only) = 100% stiffer (obviously equal stiffness as front bar thus "neutral") 28mm (P80 only) = 216% stiffer (this ass slide out-ism) A little increase goes a long way, ask Viagra Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbodor3 Posted June 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2011 okay well I'm working on my throttle control constantly... it's really the only pedal I have any control over but I'll be looking to pick up a stocker sway, tire psi changed and it seems the front end breaks loose way more often (38/35 psi and tried 40/35, too big of a gap imho). Will change the settings in the rear konis to full soft and see what happens also. Will report back with more results Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herz3mc Posted June 11, 2011 Report Share Posted June 11, 2011 Turn early, turn less. Really Really early. You should be thinking why am i turning already? Slow down going into corners, wait to get on the gas until the car is pointed in the right direction. Hit up some local autocross events and play around with different inputs and see how it feels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keep Calm Chive On Posted June 11, 2011 Report Share Posted June 11, 2011 basically from a starters point of view. Think of all the weight balance transfers with each motion... breaking going into the corner late will cause the weight to shift to the front causing the rear to be light and give the ability to kick out & less control over the front wheels in both braking & turning cause it is now triple tasking (braking, turning, weight transfering), I am a fan of "straight line braking" as much as I can so that I know all 4 wheels are planted and then sorta staying in the throttle at my intended speed through the apex of the corner. properly turning will help you out it because you will then transfer the weight to the rear of the car keeping your ass planted where you want to be through the remainder of the turn and the front will pull you out. Given the right speed it is much easier to drive through a turn on throttle than trying to brake. Trying to brake through a corner because you brake late means your trying to stop the wheel from its forward motion, your trying to turn on a wheel moving forward that doesnt want to stop and now wants to go straight on top of it, your weight majority is on 2 wheels that are already busy trying to sort out 2 different things. The best place to see this in a safe setting is a winter parking lot. Try braking & turning at the same time even at 5-10mph vs trying to go & turn. FWD cars pull through turns not push so you cant re-direct your ass end once you have lost it you need to get it back before you can get back in it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gideon35T Posted June 11, 2011 Report Share Posted June 11, 2011 i dunno about u rbod but i have way too much low rpm torque to go higher pressure on the fronts - my 235/35/18 hankooks have almost no sideway movement so i dont worry about rolling to the side in a turn - but i cant give it throttle on high psi fronts, the spin makes for oversteer X 1,000,000, lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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