jroot Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 Does anyone know the length of both driver side and passenger side rear brake lines that run from the caliper? I believe the pipe is 3/16" and has a M10 x 1.0 bubble but I'm not sure on the lengths... Thanks, Jay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cn90 Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 Does anyone know the length of both driver side and passenger side rear brake lines that run from the caliper? ... Curious why you want to replace the metal line. In my case, HEAT solved the problem (it allows you to separate the hose from the line, use Propane torch, about $10-12 at hardware store)! I wrote it up here: http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=37721 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jroot Posted June 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 Curious why you want to replace the metal line. In my case, HEAT solved the problem (it allows you to separate the hose from the line, use Propane torch, about $10-12 at hardware store)! I wrote it up here: http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=37721 Mostly because the flare nut is destroyed on the caliper side and I'd rather not play around with flaring the existing line and just get new line to replace the old one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cn90 Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 Mostly because the flare nut is destroyed on the caliper side and I'd rather not play around with flaring the existing line and just get new line to replace the old one. One option is to cut the line right at the nut and flare it. Of course use new nut. Your other option is to use a string and strecth it along the metal line, then measure total distance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burn-E Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 Curious why you want to replace the metal line. In my case, HEAT solved the problem (it allows you to separate the hose from the line, use Propane torch, about $10-12 at hardware store)! I wrote it up here: http://www.matthewsv...php?f=1&t=37721 You keep telling people this and while I completely respect your write-ups and technical abilities, it's worth considering that sometimes that nut just isn't separating from the caliper. It may be that we salt way more in Chicago but that line was FUSED. I used HEAT and the correct size flare wrenches and PB blaster and several other penetrating oils and ultimately the only way to remove the brake line was to cut it from the passenger's side caliper and use a long socket to remove it. Had that same issue with three out of the 4 flexible brake lines as well. In fact, Volvo's design with the aluminum spacer and the braces that hold the flexible hose connection in place against the body specifically lead to corrosion into the hard brake lines. OP, if you're going to install new lines, string is the right route to get the correct measurements. And make sure you get a good bender (Rigid makes very nice one) that is dedicated to the specific diameter tube. The generic or 3 in 1 tools don't get you decent bends, in fact, you'll need more line to do the driver's side if you attempt to use a bender that doesn't do clean 90 degree angles. And the lines are double flared. cn90, as for removing the middle flexible hose that runs along the delta links, you need a security torx head remove the two screws that hold the brackets down on either end of the flexible hose. With PB blaster, and a small socket set with the proper size torx head (20 I believe), I then was able to remove the two hard brake lines on either side of that flexible line and then work with it at the worktable rather than under the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cn90 Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 For future reference for those who want to try HEAT: ---> HEAT + Vice-Grip not HEAT + flare wrench! This HEAT + Vice-Grip combo works in 95% of the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burn-E Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 For future reference for those who want to try HEAT: ---> HEAT + Vice-Grip not HEAT + flare wrench! This HEAT + Vice-Grip combo works in 95% of the time. and then you destroy the nut in the process. WTF! Seriously, I respect your efforts but that is just bad advice right there. Because even after you get it off you're going to have to install a new brass nut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cn90 Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 and then you destroy the nut in the process. WTF! Seriously, I respect your efforts but that is just bad advice right there. Because even after you get it off you're going to have to install a new brass nut. How do you know this is bad advice if you have not done so. I have! Nope, the flare wrench actually destroys the nut faster! With Vice-Grip, all you have is "bite mark" from the Vice-Grip on the nut. And Yes the nut can be re-used safely. Been there done that, taught that trick (HEAT + Vice-Grip) by the pro mechanic has has been wrenching for 30 years! PS: I always start out with flare wrench, the minute I feel that it does not work (starts to slip), I switch to HEAT and Vice-Grip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cn90 Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 Mostly because the flare nut is destroyed on the caliper side and I'd rather not play around with flaring the existing line and just get new line to replace the old one. What are you trying to do: - replacing existing line(s). Is your line corroded? vs - replacing caliper...in this situation, you can leave the line alone, just replaced the seal/boot for $14 total and you are done.. (see DIY above) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Burn-E Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 How do you know this is bad advice if you have not done so. I have! Nope, the flare wrench actually destroys the nut faster! With Vice-Grip, all you have is "bite mark" from the Vice-Grip on the nut. And Yes the nut can be re-used safely. Been there done that, taught that trick (HEAT + Vice-Grip) by the pro mechanic has has been wrenching for 30 years! PS: I always start out with flare wrench, the minute I feel that it does not work (starts to slip), I switch to HEAT and Vice-Grip. You're making assumptions now. I know it's bad advice because once the nut started to slip I too went the route of using a vice-grip. Depending on how seized the nut is you don't wind up with just bite marks on the nut but instead a crushed nut that is going to be even harder to remove. If you cut the line once you realize it's not coming off you can easily remove it with a socket. The best move with a seized nut if you can work it is to put a vice grip around the flared wrench and secure it to get a tighter purchase on the nut. Been there done that, taught the trick by a similarly experienced mechanic who works on nothing but Volvos. Further, one of the other keys is understanding that a violent quick force against the wrench is more likely to break the nut loose than trying to slowly apply that same force - which will lead to stripping. And last, brake fluid in a line with no escape route is explosive when it boils so the wise mechanic knows that applying excessive heat can lead to exploding lines with catastrophic results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cn90 Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 RE Heating line, you are correct, brake fluid can explode. The key thing is to drain brake fluid out of the caliper first (clamp supply rubber hose upstream so no fluid goes to caliper, then vacuum suction fluid out of the bleeder screw). During heating process, have a hose to feed bleeder screw so any fluid coming out is channeled away into the catch bottle located away from the heat source. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jroot Posted June 16, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 Thanks for the replies guys. I just got a new line from Volvo for $30, less headache and it took me literally 10 minutes to remove the old line and have the new line in...also I didn't want my car to be the first car that I try a bubble flare on... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cn90 Posted June 16, 2011 Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 If you change the rear metal line, it is a good idea to change the rubber hose on top of the delta link too. About $14 for the ATE hose online. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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