bdimag Posted July 3, 2011 Report Share Posted July 3, 2011 I've never actually used the speaker level feature of an amp just one less part that could fail is all... I pulled out my wiring book here (for 2000) and I'm getting the same numbers/colors. the plugs also show the numbering scheme as a double-check... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
--Aaron-- Posted July 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2011 I've never actually used the speaker level feature of an amp just one less part that could fail is all... I pulled out my wiring book here (for 2000) and I'm getting the same numbers/colors. the plugs also show the numbering scheme as a double-check... Excellent, thanks so much for confirming. It took a while but I think I got the general hang of reading those schematics. I got the information I need, good deal. Oh, that's cool. If the plugs also show what I need to know then that's even better! I used to be a fan of aftermarket HU's and Pre Amp Outputs and honestly, I'd go with a nice flashy HU if my wife and I didn't live in the city. I like the low key, no attention getting stock radio. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
--Aaron-- Posted August 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2011 I forgot to toss in an update. Everything's installed and working as it should. JL's response in regards to using a line level convertor was simply that it's quite acceptable to do. They also said the amp is designed to take the high input signal straight through splicing RCA's into the speaker wiring. Either way is acceptable by their standards. As posted above this is the convertor I used, pretty nice unit. Here is how the install turned out, I may or may not hide the speaker wiring. I sort of like the speaker wiring on top of the carpet for ease of box removal. Components used: Tsunami 4 AWG wiring kit PAC line level convertor Streetwires 1 Farad Capacitor JL Audio 500/1v1 Class D Mono Amplifier 12" Eclipse Aluminum Cone Subwoofer/Sealed Enclosure I have to pull the sub out of the box to figure out which imparticular model it is. I can confidently say that it handles what it's being given with ease and sounds amazing. The sound quality is very comparable to a JL 12W3. I'm pretty sure the amplifier has a lot to do with that as well. I plan on pulling the subwoofer out to check on model information before too long, I'd like to see if it's wired properly depending on resistance ratings. Mainly because if it is a dual 4 ohm subwoofer I need to make sure it's not wired in series at 8 ohms. No one likes losing power. I'm pretty sure it's this one: http://www.eclipse-w.../sw/sw6200.html Which would be 500 RMS and 1500 MAX. None the less though I will have to confirm when I get around to doing so. I'm assuming that it's wired correctly, I bought the amp and sub setup from the original buyer that purchased both from Tweeter and had them handle the install. Tweeter was the main stop for JL Audio around here prior to closing their doors. I would love to replace it with a JL 12W6 or two W3's and will look more into that when money allows. I honestly am thinking about staying with what I have, it does such a nice job of loading the cabin full of bass without rattling my car barely at all. I don't want to get into Dynamat and other methods of insulation. We'll see. Happy Thumping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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