jschaefer7406 Posted July 24, 2011 Report Share Posted July 24, 2011 Hello all, Posted this a while back and didn't get much, figured I'd try again. Wife's 2000 XC has had a hard starting issue for a while now. Long crank, stumble and stall. Crank again and it'll usually start. Acts like when the immobilizer disables starting, but I've watched that during starting and the key is recognized. Starter will occasionally kick back also, implying an ignition issue. Kicker is, once running, the car runs fine. No DTCS, no drivability problems at all. Tach bounces around randomly during cranking also, jumping from 0-4k rpm and anywhere in between. This led me to attempt to check the RPM signal (with VADIS) while cranking, but the few times I've been able to have the car for a day, it started quickly ... Replaced the BADLY corroded B+ cable with no change . Don't think this is a residual pressure problem, as when my S70 had the check valve failure, it didn't crank nearly as long (also didn't have the tach bouncing or stumbling). Thoughts? Thanks guys, Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
r850glt Posted July 25, 2011 Report Share Posted July 25, 2011 Fuel Pressure regulator ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRL Posted July 25, 2011 Report Share Posted July 25, 2011 You probably need to buy an aftermaket Check Valve for the fuel pump 2000s seem to take a crap. http://www.amazon.com/SUR-Auto-Parts-SRRCKV5-Check/dp/B000YOVLBO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jschaefer7406 Posted July 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2011 Hello again, Thanks for the replies guys, really appreciate any suggestions. What seems funny to me is the tach behavior and starter kickback. That leads me to believe this isn't just a fuel pressure problem. Will recheck the pressure though just to be sure . Thanks again, keep 'em coming Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ihatespeedbumps Posted August 12, 2011 Report Share Posted August 12, 2011 ABS light been on? Any codes stored, especially for something like the RPM sensor? As mentioned, checking fuel pressure would be wise. Check running, cranking and residual pressures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrWinkey Posted August 13, 2011 Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 Hello all, Posted this a while back and didn't get much, figured I'd try again. Wife's 2000 XC has had a hard starting issue for a while now. Long crank, stumble and stall. Crank again and it'll usually start. Acts like when the immobilizer disables starting, but I've watched that during starting and the key is recognized. Starter will occasionally kick back also, implying an ignition issue. Kicker is, once running, the car runs fine. No DTCS, no drivability problems at all. Tach bounces around randomly during cranking also, jumping from 0-4k rpm and anywhere in between. This led me to attempt to check the RPM signal (with VADIS) while cranking, but the few times I've been able to have the car for a day, it started quickly ... Replaced the BADLY corroded B+ cable with no change . Don't think this is a residual pressure problem, as when my S70 had the check valve failure, it didn't crank nearly as long (also didn't have the tach bouncing or stumbling). Thoughts? Thanks guys, Joe Common Joe tell the whole story ....Your not stupid Clean the ETH and make sure you have proper battery voltage......how old is the battery? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jschaefer7406 Posted August 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2011 Common Joe tell the whole story ....Your not stupid Clean the ETH and make sure you have proper battery voltage......how old is the battery? Well, I guess that depends on who you ask ... I assume you mean ETM? Cleaned it right after we bought the car last summer. It is original (white sticker) and occasionally gives an idle hiccup, but that's the extent of it. No other problems or codes set. Battery was replaced last winter... Thanks, Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jschaefer7406 Posted August 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 Okay guys, haven't had the chance to mess with the car lately (working 12-16 hr night shift ). May try a used ETM, as it recently began taking off VERY slowly (only done this a couple of times, but was nearly floored, and of course only happens when something's coming toward you ). Anyway, I had always heard these were programmed to the car and couldn't be interchanged, but recently remember reading here that they CAN be swapped, as long as it is to another turbo car. True? I have an ad in the wanted section, but as long as we're on the subject, does anyone have a good yellow-labeled ETM from a turbo car they'd part with cheap? Thanks, Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gottarollwithit Posted August 19, 2011 Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 Might want to check your fuel pressure. Maybe a fuel pump that's dying? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jschaefer7406 Posted August 19, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 19, 2011 Might want to check your fuel pressure. Maybe a fuel pump that's dying? Thanks for the suggestion. I've been meaning to, just haven't had time to look at the car lately. When I'm home, she's working . Figured I'd have a used ETM here in case (to swap in mostly for the above concerns, as I don't really think it'll cause the hard starting). As far as the fuel pump, I'm not ruling it out, but the car runs fine after startup. Never stalls, no fuel trim codes, no drivability problems. I know all cars may react differently, but when my S70 had a bad fuel pump check valve (2000 AWD, same everything), even it didn't crank this long. It always stared on the first crank and only took a few seconds... The XC always takes two cranks, as well as the occasional starter kick-back and odd tach behaviour (honestly acts like ignition to me). My S70 didn't do any if that when the residual pressure was bled off. Again, not ruling out a fuel pressure problem, but it doesn't match the symptoms in my experience . Thanks, Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Tomg Posted October 13, 2011 Report Share Posted October 13, 2011 I HAVE THE EXACT SAME PROBLEM. I have been struggling with this for over a year and a half. My symptoms are: Completely Erratic starting. 1-90 second cranks, but it always starts. or the battery dies trying. Runs great once running Tachometer erratically tachs up to 4K+ RPM's while attempting to start Engine almost catches the cranks again, while sometimes it starts immediately Very little to no correlation to prior running conditions, down time, or ambient temperature/humidity SOMETIMES throws a P0300 code "Random Cylinder Misfire", the CEL flashes, but the car runs fine. Weird, Right? Sounds like an intermittent ground, ground loop, voltage issue, ghost electrical problem, or all of the above. *My battery and starter are stronger than an ox. I am on top of maintenance. Properly gaped plugs (0.028in), working coils, clean oil 24/7, fuel filter, clean K&N air filter... the basics. *Money thrown away trying to solve this horrendous issue. $700 ETM and Programming (The old one had a yellow sticker meaning it was a Refurbished unit, upon inspection it was fairly clean internally) $140 ABS Module Rebuild (Cracked board did solve other issues and lights) $180 Cam Position Sensor $150 Crank Position Sensor (Got rid of one CEL Code) $100 2+ Coil Packs $20 Bosch Copper Plugs (Platinum Plugs last longer but provide a crappy spark... knocking and sluggish acceleration) $80 Strongest Battery 800+ CCA (off the top of my head) $20 ECU Ground $30 Fuel Pressure Gage $25 Purge Valve $15 J-hose ...There's probably more I'm not thinking of. On the Horizon. And What I should have done first clearly, cause they are cheaper and the other prior options didn't alleviate the issue. B+ Cable (Aux Battery) (From battery to fuse box) Any and all Grounding Cables (To Engine Block or transmission housing!) Immobilizer Terminal and Antenna/Ring Fuel Pressure Regulator Fuel Relay 107 & 103 Fuel Pump/Check Valve Injectors (Leaking?..prob not) IF YOU CAN OFFER ADVICE OR A POTENTIAL SOLUTION (even if i mentioned it above) DO NOT HESITATE. I would truly appreciate any help in any form. Frustration is an understatement. Words just don't do it justice. Sincerely, Tom G (508)243-3110 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom G Posted October 17, 2011 Report Share Posted October 17, 2011 Did you ever figure out what was causing the intermittent crank problem, Joe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jschaefer7406 Posted October 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2011 Hi guys, Unfortunately, I've not had time to mess with it. I work 12 hour nights, and when I get home, the Wife has already left with the car ... I any case, I know what you mean about frustration. Being a former Master tech, it makes me feel very stupid that I can't figure this one out. It acts ignition related to me (the way the starter kicks back as if timing is too far advanced). Anyway, I hope to mess with it this week. I think she'd like it fixed before winter . If I find anything, I'll be sure to call or post back . Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRL Posted October 17, 2011 Report Share Posted October 17, 2011 Don't want to listen huh? Buy an aftermarket (externally mounted) check valve and your problem should be solvedThis is what you need: http://www.amazon.com/SUR-Auto-Parts-SRRCKV5-Check/dp/B000YOVLBO Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jschaefer7406 Posted October 17, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2011 Don't want to listen huh? Buy an aftermarket (externally mounted) check valve and your problem should be solved Jim, Thanks for the usual eloquent reply . I did see your suggestion above, but I don't think this is a residual pressure problem. I know it's common on the '00 AWD's, as I have already replaced the pump on my '00 S70 AWD for a failed check valve. On the S70 though, there was a definite difference. It always started on the first crank, just took slightly longer than normal. However, the S70 NEVER had the bouncing tach or starter kick back. These two symptoms I think are key. Simple loss of residual fuel pressure should NOT cause the tach to bahave this way or the starter to kick back. I appreciate all suggestions though and will check the pressure again to be sure. Again, haven't had time at all to check anything as she always has the car ... Thanks for the help, Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.