850T5M Posted August 24, 2011 Report Share Posted August 24, 2011 LED Footwell Lights – HOW TO So I finally decided to install some LED footwell lights this morning, so I’m gonna write a how to for anyone who likes my results What it does: I basically wanted to have my footwells light up 100% whenever I open up my doors, but have them really dim (like 15-20% on) when I’m driving, just for show purposes… Things Needed: -Multimeter -LED SMD Strip (can be purchased on e-bay for pretty cheap) -Couple feet of wire (different colors, up to you, 18AWG is fine) -5 Pin Relay -200 to 500 Ohm, 3-10W Resistor (the higher the ohm, the less bright the lights, I used 220Ohms) -Basic Tools (Wire cutters/strippers, torx drivers, etc…) -Wire Solder + Solder + Electrical Tape Difficulty: Hardest part was figuring out the diagram below, and finding the source of the dome light power…once this is found, the rest is pretty simple. If you have just basic knowledge of electricity you’ll be fine. If not, well I hope this guide is enough to guide you through the installation. **First things first, always disconnect the battery terminals so you don’t get electrocuted or burn any circuits in the car** So start off by removing the driver side footwell from the car (3 torx screws), then remove the drivers window pillar from the car, this can be done by simply pulling it away from the car. Start near the dash, and work your way up. Once this is removed there should be 6 wires attached in 2 bundles. One bundle has 2 wires, the other has 4. Set the bundle of 2 aside, we will only be working with the 4 wire bundle. In the set of wires, there are a black, red, grey and red/black wire. The wire we need is the RED/BLACK wire. This wire controls the dome lights in the car. When the doors/lights are open there will be 0V, when the doors/lights are closed there will be 12V (weird lol…) Splice the Red/Black wire and weld a new piece of wire to it. Don’t cut the new wire too short, it has to reach the footwell. Once welded, pass the remainder of the wire through the side of the dash into the footwell. The wire I used is a blue/pink wire which you can see below. This new dome wire will connect to the relay on contact P1 or P2 (doesn’t matter which one, the other will be ground). Next we will need to find a constant power source and a power source that goes on with the ignition. To do this, I found the easiest way was to go into my radio harness and grab them from there. To do this, remove the stock radio (Push on the two side tabs and then pull out), locate the solid yellow wire, solid red wire and solid black wire. What you will do is cut into these three wires (red, yellow and black) and pass 3 new wires into the footwell area. It’s better to color code these wires or just write on a paper which is which for reference. Now the hard part: You’re gonna want to connect the black wire (ground) to P1 or P2 (opposite of what you did with the dome wire), connect the Constant power (red) wire to the default off position on the relay (In 2 in diagram) and the ignition power (yellow) wire to the on position on the relay (In 1 in the diagram). The best way to check which is the default off for the relay is by either looking at the diagram on ur relay or by using the continuity function on your multimeter to see which contact is default off. Once this is done, you can pass a final wire from the output of the relay (Out on the diagram) to the positive of your LED SMD strip. The negative wire from your LED strip will go into any ground (like the black ground you passed to the relay for example). Finishing off: Tape your LED lights under the kick panels in the footwell or anywhere you like them using double sided tape. Enjoy showing off your new lights! Results: I don't have any picture of what they look like because its still day light, but I installed them a week ago on my friends Chevy Cobalt and they really light up the entire footwell area very nicely. They only complaint he had was they were too bright while driving, this is why I now have a resistor on them when the car is running (doors closed), it makes them just barely noticeable while driving. Hope you like my How-To, any questions just ask me. I'll try to help as best as I can. Enjoy!!! -TomPS: The picture of my relay has different color wires which should not be used as a reference, the picture is just there to show everyone an example of a relay with 5 pins looks like... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bah Posted August 24, 2011 Report Share Posted August 24, 2011 Question about your relay connections listed... If the relay is on (Doors CLOSED), it should be outputting Input 1 correct? If the relay is off (Doors OPEN), it should be outputting Input 2 correct? I'm not all too familiar with 5 pin relays, so i apologize if it sounds dumb, but if that is the case, with the car on, doors closed, the relay should be ON(energized)...but the on position is outputting ignition power, which has no resistor on it based on the diagram. If that was the case, while driving they would be bright unless you drive with the doors open Is that just a misprint on the diagram? I think it is based on your further comment, but just wanted to confirm. Overall nice writeup...i'm a little curious why you didn't just tap into the light down by the footwell already, unless you felt that the extra draw to energize the relay would have been too much for the wiring? That would have been a bit easier imho. Also, since that would pretty much be a guaranteed 12V-on GND-off wiring, that would prevent drawing extra from the battery when the car is off. I doubt the relay consumes more then a few mA tops if even, but again i'm not sure. Not sure why the car is wired like that (i know the power stage uses a similar method..hate mixed logic!!) , I've never delved too far into the lighting though.. Not trying to sound critical and i apologize if i come off that way...i've been going through it and it is a great write-up...just trying to figure a few things out and learn it myself :P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobT5M Posted August 25, 2011 Report Share Posted August 25, 2011 Results: They only complaint he had was they were too bright while driving So wait.... your saying they are constantly on now when the door is shut, but not on when it is open? or just always on as long as the car is on? Thought this was, door closed = off door open = on like the stock set up until I read that last part. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
850T5M Posted August 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2011 Lmao, I honestly didn't even notice I had a light in the footwell already, I guess my bulb is burnt lol. Going back to ur question about the diagram, it is correct except I didnt put a picture of the resistor in the diagram. Thats actually just a basic "relay" diagram found on most relays. To answer ur question tho, the resistor would have to be placed between In 1 and the thick yellow ignition source. RobT5 - As long as the car is in Ignition 2 mode (running or just switched to the II position on the key), the lights will be at 15% brightness. As soon as the car is shut off and a door is opened, the lights will be on 100%. My friend had no resistor on his car before, nor did he have a relay, his car just had LEDs on 100% all the time...my configuration is much nicer. I'll see if I can get a picture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobT5M Posted August 25, 2011 Report Share Posted August 25, 2011 Ah ok I see now. Why not wire the lights to the existing foot well wires though? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
850T5M Posted August 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2011 Lmao, I honestly didn't even notice I had a light in the footwell already, I guess my bulb is burnt lol. Read my previous post lol... Pics: Doors Open: Doors Closed, Ignition On: PS: Sorry my carpets are hideously dirty lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thewhiteguy1 Posted August 25, 2011 Report Share Posted August 25, 2011 this is dope. good write up dude! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobT5M Posted August 25, 2011 Report Share Posted August 25, 2011 Yeah I like it, not saying I dont. and I noticed your post. just saying, now that you know... do you think this would work if you just wired it to those lights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
850T5M Posted August 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2011 Yeah I like it, not saying I dont. and I noticed your post. just saying, now that you know... do you think this would work if you just wired it to those lights. I'd have to check, tomorrow is supposed to rain here all day. If I get a chance on friday, I'll take a look. I would guess its the exact same thing except instead of grabbing the wire from the A-Pillar, we grab the wire off the light in the foot well. I'll have to check to confirm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bah Posted August 25, 2011 Report Share Posted August 25, 2011 now that i see pictures, running them while the car is on is not nearly as bright as i expected. Looks good man! I think most people would probably just wire it into the light down there and not even use a relay...but for those who want it on all the time, this is the best way to go! Definitely a good call to use the resistor!!! Oh and my comment about the diagram, is in the text you put "IN2 = Red wire + 200-700 Ohm resistor" , for anyone who does use a resistor that resistor should be on IN1 correct? If i was into light with the car running, i'd be on this...unfortunately my eyes would get bothered with as much night driving as i do. If possible, could you snap a pic of where you mounted the lights? If you put them on the kick panels, i might do this and wire a molex connector so it would be easy to take the panels on and off. +1 to this all.... I have been looking at the $1-$2 SMD strips on eBay and wondering what i could do with them...i think this would be worthwhile ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
850T5M Posted August 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted August 25, 2011 Oh I see where I made the mistake, sorry I was tired lol, Umm the resistor should go with the yellow wire on In 1. I can change the diagram, but I cant edit my post...I'll post it here tho: I dont know if a Mod can edit my post for me up top. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpilotz Posted August 25, 2011 Report Share Posted August 25, 2011 Mine are just on a simple kill switch taken before spring, didnt have my summers on ;( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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