Boxman Posted October 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2011 Ok that does look quite like the coating mine had.I'll go look this afternoon for the markings on my block. Who kwows, maybe they're all the same and I can just use 1 size fits all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxman Posted October 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2011 OK so my block is 1BAABBB, but where do I find the markings on my crank? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted October 5, 2011 Report Share Posted October 5, 2011 Ok that does look quite like the coating mine had. I'll go look this afternoon for the markings on my block. Who kwows, maybe they're all the same and I can just use 1 size fits all. Pigs might fly, also - The odds of Volvo assembling your mains with only 1 sizing for all are probably one in a million. EDIT: Good luck with this, all jokes aside! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wizzard_al Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 The back of the crank also has size markings on it. As I said, my block is 1BBBBBB, my crank has 1CCCBBB. You cannot see the crank markings unless it is out of the engine, the counterweight has them, but if the bottom of the block (intermediate carrier) is bolted on, it covers the markings. Boxman: remember, the 10 X 1.5 mm main bolts that hold the intermediate carrier to the block are torque to yield, in other words, use once, then throw away! You need to buy 12 more! That is why I am checking out ARP for studs to use. I've gotten close, but need to call one more time to find the right stud. Got one sample, and the threads in the block were too short, in spite of what ARP tech support told me. Bought another test stud, and it still isn't long enough. Figure I'm going to have to buy a stud that is about 5.5" long, and the one I have is 4.9" and I have part numbers for ones up to 5.25". Now that I've actually put one into a block, I can figure out what size I need. Spoke this afternoon to a major engine shop where I ordered my sample AP stud. They bore, balance, put in sleeves, balance crank/rods, valve jobs, rebuild heads, port heads, etc, and then they build engines. Very impressive shop, and they have a lot of experience in big block domestic engines, as well as foreign engines. When I discussed Vovlo's main bearing schema, he told me that Honda and others do the very same. Domestic manufacturers used to have one size fit all, but later went to offering sets of bearings with slightly under or oversize. What they do with engines is measure the crank and block, and then put in bearings to match to get the proper clearance. They may use up to three sets of main bearings to get all of them into the proper clearance range. He said using the Honda or Volvo system of colored bearings would save time, and is basically what they do with high performance engines they build. Also said I may be close to right on my guess in size difference between different colored bearings. they typically measure bearing shells and will switch them for as little as .0005" difference, about half of what I was suggesting, but they are looking for very tight tolerances. Not to say that what Boxman or Hussein did was wrong, shop owner also told me this is exactly what they did for domestic engines for years, and then when they had options, they started sizing bearings to the engine. But in many cases for street engines, it is probably close enough, unless you have an engine that is at the maximum for tolerances. If anyone is interested, when I finally size the studs for the intermediate carrier, I can let you know what they are. Also, I've checked on head studs as well, and have that number, but I want to talk to ARP about those one more time, as well. VIVA has head studs for sale, and I think I can get them cheaper going locally through this shop, but I have to do the work to find the correct ones. The ones I know about have been used in a V70, probably about a '98, but I think the threads in the block are slightly too short, so want to check that out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxman Posted October 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 I was afraid of that, but really? I just bought those.. I only put them in there once, just let them sit, and haven't run the engine with them ofcourse. Does that still mean I need new ones? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JCviggen Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 As for the horror story; i've actualy heard several. One from a Dutch guy who said those Glyco's were bad, others from someone on eBay who spun them, but had no problems with OEMS, and another on here who had them fall apart, badly damaging his crankshaft. Not all Glyco's are the same. That's only the brand name. For our cars they have standard bearings and sputter bearings. Standard is around 30 euros, sputter is around 200 euros. Same box, same name, only the sticker on it is different. But a huge difference in bearing quality. I would not assemble an engine using glyco standard. A friend of mine accidentally did and after a few thousand miles they were gone (rod bearings, they have much less surface area than mains so they get most abuse) the sputters are similar to OEM volvo bearings which are also sputtered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxman Posted October 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 Thought as much. Only question remains; how can the Volvo OEM's be 30 euro's, while the GLyco sputters are 200? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B Mac Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 If you're rebuilding the motor just get the oem bearings...you'll be kicking yourself if something happens that could have been avoided by spending a little extra cash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JCviggen Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 I don't know about over there but here in Belgium and Germany the OEM volvo turbo bearings cost a lot more than 30 for a set (unless prices changed dramatically compared to 2yrs ago) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxman Posted October 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 Weird though.. How much do you pay for them? What volvo partnumber do you use for them?I'm located in the Netherlands by the way, so shouldn't really make much difference those prices.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan M Posted October 7, 2011 Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 Genuine turbo bearing sets for 5 here in the UK were around £140 with a good 15-20% discount from the dealer on Volvo UK prices. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JCviggen Posted October 7, 2011 Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 Weird though.. How much do you pay for them? What volvo partnumber do you use for them? I'm located in the Netherlands by the way, so shouldn't really make much difference those prices.. Don't have the p/n handy, but it's at least 30+ per 2 bearing halves (cylinder) 170-180 euro for 5 iirc. Make sure you are not getting quoted the wrong bearings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johann Posted October 7, 2011 Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 71-3926/5 STD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dublin14 Posted October 7, 2011 Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 I went with OEM bearings. Thats what you dont cheap out on when doing a build. Don't have the p/n handy, but it's at least 30+ per 2 bearing halves (cylinder) 170-180 euro for 5 iirc. Make sure you are not getting quoted the wrong bearings. Do you still have the 850? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boxman Posted October 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 Right, so I ordered 1 set of 2 shells, and not a set of 10. That makes perfect sense then :P Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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