FAST850R Posted October 4, 2011 Report Share Posted October 4, 2011 Hello, I am sorry posting lots of questions. My car is going to get a big surgery in a few weeks, which is RMS job. During the surgery, I am going to change all the engine mounts. What else should I replace? Sub frame mounts? Rear engine torque road? My car is 1995 850R with 149k miles. Stage 0 was done 1 year ago. Any advice would be great. Thank you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OptimusGlen Posted October 4, 2011 Report Share Posted October 4, 2011 if you're doing a RMS, might as well do the transmission input shaft seal (transmission pump seal on autos) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FAST850R Posted October 4, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 4, 2011 if you're doing a RMS, might as well do the transmission input shaft seal (transmission pump seal on autos) Thank you for the reply. I will check that out. Anything else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick Dastardly Posted October 4, 2011 Report Share Posted October 4, 2011 are you pulling the engine and trans or are you taking just the trans out? If pulling engine, might as well do the rest of the seals (cam, front crank etc...) and do the oil O-rings too. Much easier with engine out. Water pump been done yet? Also, how old is T-belt? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikv11 Posted October 4, 2011 Report Share Posted October 4, 2011 Consider doing the oil pump pickup tube o-rings. You have to drop the pan for this so getting into some more work, but it is much much easier with the engine out of the car. If you intend to keep the car for a long time, and likely you are since you are doing the RMS, then I would do the o-rings, they are usually failing by the time a turbo 850 gets to 200k. The parts are cheap ($15 for o-ring kit, about $20 for the Volvo pink gasket sealer).oops I see this wast posted while it sat on my computer ... I agree on timing components too, especially water pump is way easier with the engine out. Cam seals I sort of feel like you can do any time but your call. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FCP Euro Posted October 4, 2011 Report Share Posted October 4, 2011 If you are pulling the engine, then do all the seals you can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FAST850R Posted October 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2011 Stage 0 was done 1 year ago. It will be just dropping the transmission, and a member will do this job for his spare time so he can't spend too much time on other things excpet RMS. Transmission and engine mounts are easy to replace while sub frame is dropped so they are no problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TaskMule Posted October 5, 2011 Report Share Posted October 5, 2011 I know that many have recommended against this sort of thing, but I put a 20$ bottle of rear main seal sealant (cant remember the name, but autozone has it) into my oil 2 years ago, and that ended any leaks I had, after a couple of days. Not a drop on the ground since. Oil has been changed a few times since then, and still no leaks. Just sayin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FAST850R Posted October 5, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 5, 2011 I know that many have recommended against this sort of thing, but I put a 20$ bottle of rear main seal sealant (cant remember the name, but autozone has it) into my oil 2 years ago, and that ended any leaks I had, after a couple of days. Not a drop on the ground since. Oil has been changed a few times since then, and still no leaks. Just sayin. I actually put Stop Leak real main seal sealant last week. I am about to check whether it will stop leak. If I am lucky, I can drive my car without leak for a few more years. I doubt it though. Well, I am getting a real good deal for RMS job so I am going for it. I need to change all the mounts and other stuff while the tranny is dropped anyways. Thank you for the suggestion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cn90 Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 When I did my RMS, I also replaced the Trans Seals x3 (Input x1, Output x2). Use ONLY Volvo OEM seals, unless you want to do them again LOL. Since the Axles are out, you may as well replace the CV Boots: http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=29716 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FAST850R Posted October 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 Thank you for the good advice. Yes, when the transmission is dropped, we will check all the trans seals, and cv boot too. If anything needs to be replaced, we will replace them with OEM parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikv11 Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 I would not touch the CV boots unless they are on their last legs. They don't fail that often, and this is a California car. Plus, taking out an axle is simple, you can do that any time. Replacing a CV boot is a long, PITA job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cn90 Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 erik, CV Boot is an easy job. See my DIY listed in post #10 above. Clamp it on a Vise and tap it with a drift. The OUTER CV Boot in any FWD car, any weather, any city in the country usually fail around 60-90K interval. CV boot fails (the OUTER boot always fail first) because the car turns R and L. This process creates flexing and bending of the rubber (at the crease) thousands of times ---> crack. The O.P. has 150K miles, I guarantee you the CV boots (if not already replaced) are cracked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FAST850R Posted October 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 erik, CV Boot is an easy job. See my DIY listed in post #10 above. Clamp it on a Vise and tap it with a drift. The OUTER CV Boot in any FWD car, any weather, any city in the country usually fail around 60-90K interval. CV boot fails (the OUTER boot always fail first) because the car turns R and L. This process creates flexing and bending of the rubber (at the crease) thousands of times ---> crack. The O.P. has 150K miles, I guarantee you the CV boots (if not already replaced) are cracked. What are basic symptoms of cracked or bad CV boot? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Che'_Moderator Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 What are basic symptoms of cracked or bad CV boot? It has cracks in it LOL. Same as anything rubber. It will looks cracked, faded, or both. CV boots are a 30 minute job tops. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.