T-RRRRR Posted July 26, 2012 Report Share Posted July 26, 2012 You only need the remote wire if you are using RCA or someone other line leval out. Speaker/power level outs do not need the trigger wire. So this is saying if A) i'm using a converter to get my RCA signal from the rear speakers - then I can forget about running the remote wire Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Che'_Moderator Posted July 26, 2012 Report Share Posted July 26, 2012 So this is saying if A) i'm using a converter to get my RCA signal from the rear speakers - then I can forget about running the remote wire Why would you ever do that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bdimag Posted July 26, 2012 Report Share Posted July 26, 2012 You only need the remote wire if you are using RCA or someone other line leval out. So this is saying if A) i'm using a converter to get my RCA signal from the rear speakers - then I can forget about running the remote wire no, because you're converting it to line level Why would you ever do that? but isn't that the norm if your h/u doesn't have a sub out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Che'_Moderator Posted July 27, 2012 Report Share Posted July 27, 2012 no, because you're converting it to line level but isn't that the norm if your h/u doesn't have a sub out? Then just use powered outs. Converting back to line level is only going to make the quality worse Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98t5M Posted July 27, 2012 Report Share Posted July 27, 2012 Maybe I'm just picky but I would not ground to the chassis either, I would run a proper wire the same gauge as the power from the negative on the battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prasamin Posted July 29, 2012 Report Share Posted July 29, 2012 Maybe I'm just picky but I would but ground to the chassis either, I would run a proper wire the same gauge as the power from the negative on the battery. Isn't the battery grounded to the chassis? A clean ground on the chassis is just as good as the battery, if not better because of the shorter run... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyb5 Posted July 29, 2012 Report Share Posted July 29, 2012 The battery is grounded to the chassis. Running a ground wire to the battery is not a good choice because you want as short a ground wire as possible Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Che'_Moderator Posted July 29, 2012 Report Share Posted July 29, 2012 You are going to have way less resistance to a battery ground than a chassis ground.The path length will be basically the same with either. IE about 13'. If you want to ignore the cost and the PITA it is, a battery ground is better than a chassis ground, and will stiffen the entire grounding of the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prasamin Posted July 29, 2012 Report Share Posted July 29, 2012 You are going to have way less resistance to a battery ground than a chassis ground.The path length will be basically the same with either. IE about 13'. If you want to ignore the cost and the PITA it is, a battery ground is better than a chassis ground, and will stiffen the entire grounding of the car. if you're grounding to chassis, and the amp is in the trunk, then the length of the ground to the amp is less much less, right? if you're diasy chaining the ground, from the negative terminal of the battery, then how is resistance less? I'm not familiar with the principles of resistance....but logically, to me atleast, a shorter ground offers less resistance... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Che'_Moderator Posted July 29, 2012 Report Share Posted July 29, 2012 if you're grounding to chassis, and the amp is in the trunk, then the length of the ground to the amp is less much less, right? if you're diasy chaining the ground, from the negative terminal of the battery, then how is resistance less? I'm not familiar with the principles of resistance....but logically, to me atleast, a shorter ground offers less resistance... 2 connections and OFC Copper vs ?? connections and steel, paint, undercoating, old connections. This is not theoretical, this is very measurable. Does it matter in a car that has garbage acoustics? Probably not, but there is a very significant difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piston Slapper Posted July 30, 2012 Report Share Posted July 30, 2012 if you're grounding to chassis, and the amp is in the trunk, then the length of the ground to the amp is less much less, right? if you're diasy chaining the ground, from the negative terminal of the battery, then how is resistance less? I'm not familiar with the principles of resistance....but logically, to me atleast, a shorter ground offers less resistance... I think I see where you're confused... the chassis itself is NOT the ground, so you're not just taking the distance from amp to chassis, but all the chassis it has to get through to get back to the battery and complete the full circuit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
5cyl Posted July 30, 2012 Report Share Posted July 30, 2012 Off the switched 12v line into the back of the radio? That's where I did mine. this is by far the easiest place and also what i did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prasamin Posted July 30, 2012 Report Share Posted July 30, 2012 I think I see where you're confused... the chassis itself is NOT the ground, so you're not just taking the distance from amp to chassis, but all the chassis it has to get through to get back to the battery and complete the full circuit. thank you....that makes everything clear! I did not know that... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modus Posted July 31, 2012 Report Share Posted July 31, 2012 Added 2 cents, Steel is also a pore conductor. Most people including myself don't do the extra work or expense in running another conductor. Like Che, mentioned, the delay for perfect acoustics you won't be able to hear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T-RRRRR Posted August 4, 2012 Report Share Posted August 4, 2012 Off the switched 12v line into the back of the radio? That's where I did mine. this is by far the easiest place and also what i did. UPDATE- ran my remote wire right into the hot wire (pre-relay) on the antenna. Power on radio... On comes amp. As long as its before the relay, or what volvo calls the control unit, it will remain on untill you turn off the Radio. (i was a little concerned that it would only receive 12v when the antenna motor was operating, however alls well!) EASIEST!!!! Really though, quickest, and best of all most simple Sub install I've ever done. Drilled a hole behind brake pedal/below booster. Ran my fused b+ cable to the trunk - Spliced the output converter/3M double-sided it under side of rear deck.- ground out - done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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