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Downpipe Issue


c_long20

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First, I installed a k24 a couple months back. We "engineered" the downpipe and such temporarily. I am having an issue with routing the downpipe I got and keeping my AWD.

This is what I got. OBX cat delete stainless downpipe for an S60R. I knew it was gonna be an issue. But it was the only dp I could find for a k24 reasonably priced.

downpipe

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k24

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Sorry about the pictures, my camera is old and cheap.

I thought of cutting the passenger floorpan and flipping the cut piece to weld it into the hole.

There was talk of running it out the fender. :ph34r:

Im open to any ideas that will keep me from the $400 :blink: I was was quoted from the muffler shop.

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$400 OMG!!! I had mine made in like 2 hours full 3" with a race cat welded in and O2 bungs also welded for $180 at a custom muffler shop. Now of course it isn't polished as nobody ever looks under the car but still yikes $400 is a lot.

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Tell me about it. He told me "it was gonna be a lot of crap to deal with". He said if I dump the awd that it would be about $100. I could do it of it weren't awd that's why I'm here dumass. Anyways, I may go to Nashville and try there. It's just kind of a pita to drive almost 2 hours with no exhaust.

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The flange isnt really the issue. I bought that dp hoping that it would work better for the AWD and its 3". I had it rigged up with a couple of other pipes, but it looked like immortal shit. I am really trying to make things look better. In the past I make shit work and dont really care if it looks good. Im trying something new.

DSCF2394640x480-cutout.jpg

Its rumored that this section of the floorpan/firewall is getting cut today. If I cut a 8" x 12" section out the dp will fit without any other issues. Just flip the section over, weld into place, flip heat shields over and enjoy -maybe-. I really dont want to do it this way b/c I want it to look nice.

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This is where it's hitting. I dont know if I could cut the dp under the flex joint and maybe get the muffler shop to go from there or what. Frikkin asswhores.

The motor isnt built in the manner that most people here do. I used mostly Volvo parts. New rods, pistons, "R" multi-layer head gasket, head bolts, new style oil p/u tube and oil pan, new lifters and cams. All from different crap that I have written down somewhere :wacko: . Seems to run good at the moment, but I really need to get the exhaust fixed.

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You'd be far better off cutting and re-welding the downpipe than messing with your firewall. You want the downpipe to look more like Lookforjoe's.

Note that this DP is for a 20G, not a K24. It is a 3" DP with AWD though.

XCV7020G0020.jpg

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Dont cut your firewall if your going for something that looks good than cutting and rewelding that will eventually look like HELL all for what to get a shiney pipe back there where nobody looks anyways... doesn't make sense.

Chock that shiney DP as a loss resell it as it and have a shop fabricate a custom well fitted DP for you if it doesn't look to your standards then ground the welds down and throw some paint or completely hide it by heat wrapping the sh!t out of it. Again that's just my 2 cents and what I did. did it only took 2 hours to complete the job and I was back on the road yes, I didn't do it myself but somethings I'd rather just get done than try to waste days buying an off the shelf part from OBX which is what I think you have there and try to make that fit and look good.

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I am taking it to an exhaust shop in Nashville next week. It's gonna be about $850 from the turbo to the bumper all welded no clamps. With Flowmaster 50 series muffler and all 2.75" stainless tubing. I could get the 3" stuffed in there, but he told me it was much more difficult and would be about $200 more. Whatever. Thanks for the advice. Hopefully I will post up some update pictures soon. ^_^

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