boxpin Posted January 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2012 someone already mentioned that you should check your cam positioning sensor wire in relation to the spark plug wires as this CAN cause interference. I had this issue and I ended up running the cam sensor wire under something to be sure it wouldnt come anywhere close again. I would just check to make sure that the securing bolts are still tight as with a lot of vibration i can see them working their way out because I am pretty sure no one has ever lok-tite'd these bolts A couple have recommended that and I will check and make an effort to move them regardless. I have a second flywheel sensor and cam sensor...I could swap them both out??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gideon35T Posted January 6, 2012 Report Share Posted January 6, 2012 Swap 1 at a time then try. No use potentially making things more complicated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
broken041 Posted January 6, 2012 Report Share Posted January 6, 2012 I had a misfire issue, sometimes a gentle surging, other times it would act like it stalled under wot. Lifting the foot just off of the floor gave me back power, but obviously not full power due to keeping the foot off of the floor. Much searching and scratching of my head led me to the air injection pump being full of water. No wonder the air filter had a rust stain. I did the bypass and have not had a problem since. Just a thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxpin Posted January 6, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2012 I had a misfire issue, sometimes a gentle surging, other times it would act like it stalled under wot. Lifting the foot just off of the floor gave me back power, but obviously not full power due to keeping the foot off of the floor. Much searching and scratching of my head led me to the air injection pump being full of water. No wonder the air filter had a rust stain. I did the bypass and have not had a problem since. Just a thought. Its a 95 w/egr...no pump. You had my attention though. Your description is excellent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fastwagonhawaii Posted January 7, 2012 Report Share Posted January 7, 2012 MAF, when was it changed or checked last. If it was fuel you wouldn't get misfires you would just loose power. If like you said everything is new or has been checked. the maf would be where I look. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboTA Posted January 7, 2012 Report Share Posted January 7, 2012 I use to get that CEL also and then I replaced my plug wires with NAPA brand Volvo specific wires. It went away and it also has a lifetime warranty against wear and tear. It cost 55 something dollars. It also has a very low resistance per foot. It looks very well made. Goodluck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keep Calm Chive On Posted January 7, 2012 Report Share Posted January 7, 2012 Boxpin idk much about your car other than it runs like 13's or something but perhaps you just have the unfortunate fate that the orientation of your plugs once installed & torqued happen to align the open face of the plug directly to the intake runner causing blow out at higher levels? Or that the injectors are at WOT dumping copious amounts of fuel into the cylinder and to sum it up in general terms... R.Kelly is your injector and the open face of the spark plug pointed toward the intake runner is a 17 yr old girls face... and its just peeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeing all over her causing the spark to be washed out? if your gap is TOO small the flame kernal never has a chance to grow or cant grow in time to hit the ideal a/f mixture? also and you added the MSD to eliminate this issue but all you did was provide with with a more intense pulse but still didnt actually allow the kernal to grow to the point tharrr be explosion? What coils are you using (sorry for not fully re-reading again). I know some people have stated that after market coils are meh in regards to perfect timing. aftermarket coil (including MSD BlasterShaster) arent the OEM one which the the ignition system was designed with and unless it happens to be a PERFECT replication of the product it might have a curve in regards to accuracy & at higher RPM it is pushing the limits. One last thing and I know you said you have tried both ARD & IPD tunes... Depending how much information / detail you gave to the tuner there might be an issue with dwell time on the ignition coil. If your really winding out the motor the coil might not be set for the right dwell inbetween pulses resulting in either a late timed pulse or a weak one if it hasnt recharged fully before it is once again demanded to fire. Dwell time is basically the recovery time from when ignition coil busts its nut and when its ready to rage again. If its dwell timing is wrong it might wanna fuck back to back to backs on racks on racks on racks but its kinda hard with a limp noodle cause the electro-testies havent replenished the electro juices to start up the cylinder orgy resulting in Mr Electricity not making it to the cylinder party resulting in cylinder getting a fuel bukakke and everyone goes home sad after that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prasamin Posted January 7, 2012 Report Share Posted January 7, 2012 OEM plugs are platinum, right? have you tried copper plugs gapped down to .028? i've been using Champion RC7YC (something like that) for the last 5-7 years....no misfires even at crazy boost...in between there Aaron had installed some NGK copper plugs and I didn't have any issues with them, but they did go bad more quickly than the Champions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snabb T5M Posted January 7, 2012 Report Share Posted January 7, 2012 For an 850, OEM plugs are not platinum. And the NGK plugs he was running are V-Power copper. OEM plugs are platinum, right? have you tried copper plugs gapped down to .028? i've been using Champion RC7YC (something like that) for the last 5-7 years....no misfires even at crazy boost...in between there Aaron had installed some NGK copper plugs and I didn't have any issues with them, but they did go bad more quickly than the Champions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prasamin Posted January 7, 2012 Report Share Posted January 7, 2012 what is the heat rating on the V-powers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snabb T5M Posted January 7, 2012 Report Share Posted January 7, 2012 NGK 7E heat range is 7 and is a step colder than Volvo OEM plug. http://www.ngk.com/m...AAIA=&pid=32418 OEM comparable NGK plug (BKR6E) is a 6. what is the heat rating on the V-powers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted January 7, 2012 Report Share Posted January 7, 2012 what turbo & boost are you running? Have you tried lowering the boost setting (if you have an MBC or EBC)? what gas are you using? Did it do this when the weather was warmer, or did it start as the ambient temp dropped? Every time I had this sort of issue it was either worn cap, rotor or plugs. You could try the NGK race plugs, they may be an improvement, but with the MSD6a box, you really don't want to run a narrow gap no matter what plug - I would keep them at least .030" I even ran .034-.036 for shits & giggles. Maybe you should try going wider, not narrower. Got any pics of the plug tips when you pull them? Might help us see how it's running... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxpin Posted January 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2012 I just had them out last night to regap them. I did set them to .026 reluctantly but I am searching for a resolution. I really think the MSD6a and MSD Blaster coil can play on the .030 gap just fine. I also moved the cam and flywheel sensor wires as far away as possible. These plugs are only a week old. Tips were white, out section black. I was careful when pulling them and am holding the plug in the exact position it was in the head based on the intake port. What you see is what the incoming air/fuel sees. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the commissar! Posted January 7, 2012 Report Share Posted January 7, 2012 I had that crap once...in addition to what youve done i cleaned plug seats really well, and made sure plug wires are routed property and that none of the sensor wires are near the plug wires...seems crazy easy but it worked you might try degreeing your plugs to help too but idk too much about that... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted January 8, 2012 Report Share Posted January 8, 2012 Those do look like they're sooting - these were my NGK race plugs R5672A-8 gapped @ 032 these are two steps colder then the Volvo - I'd say gap them wider Is your tune properly set for the injectors you're using? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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