Tyler T5R Posted February 14, 2012 Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 Well I just ordered IPD sway bars for my 98 V70R. I do most of my own car work but feel like I could use help with these, especially the front one. Anyone in VA willing to help install them? Obviously you will be compensated. If car has 200k, should I consider replacing motor mounts at the same time? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scania Posted February 14, 2012 Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 Their really not that bad to do at all. I did mine & the understudies both in less tham a day. . . . .Off jack stands no less. Take's a little wiggling to get the front in. just be patient & it'll go fine. & Def a good time to atleast check your motor mounts for failure. Best of luck ! .................Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyler T5R Posted February 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 If car has 200k, should I consider replacing motor mounts at the same time? I think I meant to say subframe bushings, since I've read you need to jack up the subframe a bit to get the front bar in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piston Slapper Posted February 14, 2012 Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 Jack it down, really, and only the back of it. I didn't mess with them, adds alot more trouble. But checking the motor mounts is good. Also, VA is pretty general... NoVA? Richmond? Norfolk? BFE mountains? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NEU Posted February 14, 2012 Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 Hey Tyler, I was going to respond to your email, but here you go... I can help you at my place, but like I said before it won't be until I get back from travel toward the end of next month. Rear bar is easy as can be, jack up and 4 bolts to remove the old one... You reuse the old endlinks and use the new poly bushing. Like I said I'll show you the endlinks I'm making for the rear bar at the Mad Fox. The front, well for me it took a long time (several hours), mainly due to the downpipe/cat and driveshaft/bevel being in the way. I remember I had to loosen the rear subframe mounts and maybe the steering rack to get enough room to snake it in, and several times it would end up being backwards. I think the '98 have a different cat then the '00 so you might have an easier time then I did. And like Dave said, do the motor mounts if you haven't done them yet, that will save your new driveshaft front cv joint from dying sooner than it should. The ones on either side of the engine, they are pretty easy, top mount easy, front mount is a bit harder then the rest cause it's under the intake, but doable... If your mounts are worn, when you replace them you'll feel alot more power out of the motor as its not putting energy into flexing the worn mounts. As for subframe mounts, I think I told you the story about mine before our Skyline Drive drive. Took Autoscandia 2 days to do them! And with those replaced you'll feel the steering and suspension flex less and be crisp and tight, especially with your new sways.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tyler T5R Posted February 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 Also, VA is pretty general... NoVA? Richmond? Norfolk? BFE mountains? BFE Culpeper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Betty Posted February 14, 2012 Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 I didn't have much trouble with mine once I got to here: but in all seriousness I can probably help at Neu's sometime Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survolvo Posted February 14, 2012 Report Share Posted February 14, 2012 I didn't have much trouble with mine once I got to here: but in all seriousness I can probably help at Neu's sometime Thats the only way I know how to. And man is it easy. Now just find a reason to remove your engine and you got it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan A Posted February 15, 2012 Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 As far as the back one goes its pretty straight forward except I had rust issues and ended up having to cut shit up to remove the old one. So it came out in a couple of pieces. Install was easy. Front, you have to unbolt the rack and rear subframe mounts and loosen the front subframe mounts. Lower the rear subrame and fish it out. I bought new subframe mounts but ended up returning them because mine looked pretty good still. The hard part with the front is trying to fish the new sway back in. You should also get your alignment checked although my guy said the alignment needed no adjustment when he checked it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piston Slapper Posted February 15, 2012 Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 I had a harder time getting the old front out than putting the new one in myself... and I didn't unbolt the rack. But I also used a lift. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan A Posted February 15, 2012 Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 I'd also consider new front end links if needed or wish to upgrade Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NEU Posted February 15, 2012 Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 You should also get your alignment checked although my guy said the alignment needed no adjustment when he checked it. Why would you need an alignment for swaybars? Unless you needed on before you should need one after. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
survolvo Posted February 15, 2012 Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 But I also used a lift. Thats cheating! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan A Posted February 15, 2012 Report Share Posted February 15, 2012 Why would you need an alignment for swaybars? Unless you needed on before you should need one after. Very well may be and my experience may also support that, however it does state that in the IPD install instructions and I believe in the Bay 13 writeup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piston Slapper Posted February 16, 2012 Report Share Posted February 16, 2012 Why would you need an alignment for swaybars? Unless you needed on before you should need one after. Because you're unbolting the subframe and it might shift enough to throw angles off. My instructor for steering & suspension said to always align after touching subframe for that reason. Thats cheating! Cheating, winning, same difference. I wasn't just installing it... I was swapping them between two cars, so doing it on lifts was sooooo much easier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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