andyb5 Posted March 12, 2012 Report Share Posted March 12, 2012 I'll be installing my amp this week, and had a few questions before I go ahead and begin. The amp in question is a Polk Audio PA1100.5, a 5 channel amp. I will be running it at 85 watts x4 channels RMS @ 4 ohms and 600 watts x 1 channel RMS @ 1 ohm, for a combined total of 940 watts RMS. 1) I plan on using only oxygen-free copper (OFC) wires, 1/0 gauge for power and ground. I'm trying to make up my mind as to which brand to buy for power cables. I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts or input in regards to wire selection. I've installed Rockford Fosgate wires in the past, and have been impressed by their quality. Very nice, high strand count and very flexible. I've done 3 installs with Rockford wires, and no complaints so far, even years later. Current plans are for KnuKonceptz Kolossus Fleks cables as I've heard a lot of good reviews, and the price is appealing. It claims to offer the highest strand count, for what its worth. Are there any downsides I'm not seeing? I've also heard about Stinger wires, which are excellent quality, but they're definitely pricey. I don't mind paying for quality, but it seems I'd be overpaying compared to the competition. 2) In the past I've just used the RCA cables included in the amp install kit, and bought matching ones if more are needed, but since I'm assembling individual components, I want to select good quality cables. I know shielded, twisted pair RCA cables are recommended, but anything to consider beyond that? 3) What size speaker wire is recommended for each channel? 4 channels will be run from the trunk of my wagon directly to the speakers, so no more than 13' run per channel at 85W RMS amp output. The 5 channel (sub) will be on the opposite side of the trunk, so call it a 5' run at 600W RMS amp output. And last but not least, a couple other more generic questions: 4) What is the best way to cut and strip wires this size? 5) Are crimped-on ring terminals sufficient for battery and ground connections, or is there a better way of doing things? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Che'_Moderator Posted March 12, 2012 Report Share Posted March 12, 2012 A. What speaker are you running at 1ohm and why so low? 1. Copper is copper for car audio. 2. Depends on length of run but any name brand compnay will be fine. I would treat all the contact with Deoxit. If you do not have any do not buy a giant can just buy a kit like this: http://www.amazon.com/CAIG-SK-AV35-Audio-Survival-Kit/dp/B0002E55GI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1331570205&sr=8-2 3. I would run 12ga unless you just have a hard on about 10ga and think you may eventually upgrade. 12ga goes throught the doors a lot easier. For the sub match it to the amps outputs. IE go as large as you can 4. Wire strippers. If you do not have them then you will be forced to use a band saw/hack saw, and razor. 5. They should be screw down again treated with Deoxit, but you can get away with crimps. If you go the crimp route, tin the ends of the wires, after crimping, and use liquid electrical tape under the insulator boots. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyb5 Posted March 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2012 Thanks Che A: I got a pretty good deal on a new Kicker Solobaric L7 with dual 2 ohm voice coils. The voice coils will be run in parallel to present a 1 ohm load. Since the amp makes its 5th channel's highest RMS output at 1 ohm (versus 400 RMS @ 2 ohms) I see no issues with that setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Che'_Moderator Posted March 12, 2012 Report Share Posted March 12, 2012 Thanks Che A: I got a pretty good deal on a new Kicker Solobaric L7 with dual 2 ohm voice coils. The voice coils will be run in parallel to present a 1 ohm load. Since the amp makes its 5th channel's highest RMS output at 1 ohm (versus 400 RMS @ 2 ohms) I see no issues with that setup. Just less stable, more heat, and more distortion. You also probably should go to a second battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyb5 Posted March 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2012 The amp, although technically is 5 channels, is actually a 4 channel and a mono amp in 1 case with separate circuit boards, so there is a reduced chance of interference between channels. The sub channel is rated at 1% THD at 600W RMS power, with a 98 db signal to noise ratio. Just to reiterate, the sub is the only channel running at 1 ohm, the rest are all 4 ohms. Although I don't have any first hand experience, I doubt I'll be able to hear the difference in distortion between the mono channel running at 4 ohms versus 1 ohm. As far as I can tell, heat shouldn't be an issue--the amp case is a heatsink (32" L x 10" W) and I can add fans for active cooling if needed. The install will be in the trunk of my wagon, with ~3' airspace over the top of the amp, which should provide plenty of airflow for heat exchange. I have a 3 month old Volvo battery, and almost never have the stereo on without the engine running, so I should be alright for a few months. For what its worth, I'm planning on upgrading the "big 3" in the near future. What criteria determines whether a second battery is needed versus an upgraded alternator? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Che'_Moderator Posted March 12, 2012 Report Share Posted March 12, 2012 Heats always the issue with amps. As for do you need a second battery or a larger alternator, depends of your lights dim or your battery/s go dead. If you are running any computers or HIDs , or ahything else pissy about voltage, I would still say run a second battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyb5 Posted March 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2012 Ok great. Thanks for all the advice Chuck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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