New S80 Owner As Well As Member.. Tips Please

[S80T6P_T_M]

Okay today I checked all of the turbo hoses and found a slightly weak clamp or two and replaced. Still running smooth in park, but I let it warm up to get a feel for what’s going on with the exhaust. I know for sure the knocking\ rattle is coming from the resonator (before the rear muffler). I finished peeling the outer casing from it and gave it a few good blows with a hammer to see if it affects the noise. After a few blows to it the noise quieted, but I could still hear it. A few more hits and it stopped, 2 more hits it’s back again. Has anyone ever run into this? Would a good solution be to cut it off and install a straight pipe?? I also have concern as while in idle, the exhaust shakes a lot... Mounts somewhere maybe?? The cat seemed to be letting some steam\smoke\heat off in its area possibly burning off from a P/S leak that was everywhere but I fixed that 2 weeks ago. I am thinking the resonator or something is clogged somehow and I need help to figure the best diagnosis of what it could be...

Any Help is greatly appreciated...

Thanks

[S8ET6]

My questions are:

Did my cats take a dump i.e. rattlingsmellweak acceleration??

Could have... take a rubber mallet and hit the convertors. If they rattle then you need to change them.

What vacuum line is best for smoke testing the system??

I don't know because I did a leak test as opposed to a smoke test. The materials cost me less than 10 bucks (assuming that you have access to an air compressor)

Did you replace the vacuum lines yet?

could the shake be mounts that are shaking the exuast as a part of the noise I hear??

Could be. Are you sure that its not the lifters that you are hearing?

Edit: Missed your last post. Sounds like you may need to invest in a new exhaust. I'd recommend a 2.5" cat-back solution. Don't eff with the down pipe unless you are sure that you have clogged convertors. And if the convertors need to be replaced, insist that they reinstall the O2 sensors in the same position as they are on the stock DP.

[S80T6P_T_M]

S8ET6, You are a big help and I appreciate it, you are in Chicago, I’m in Michigan and I swear if I get this thing on the road and stable, I coming to the windy city for a club meetor show or something and I owe you the first 3 rounds of beer or whatever you favorite drink is....

Okay, the smoke test should work from a hose connected to the intake. I want to replace the vac lines today, but I’ll have to do some searching for and import parts store or maybe home depot. Advanced and AutoZone’s barley have a spark plug or oil filter for this car. Should I look for silicone hoses?? Also there are a few check valves, elbows and T's, can I clean or should I replace??

I will use a dead blow mallet on the cat to listen for a rattle; actually I did tap it lightly and did not hear anything. But I’m positive where the noise is and I’m sure it’s not the lifters. Only sound going on under the hood would be the injectors, which I had to get used to. That sound is not usually good on US cars.

What is the best 2.5 cat-back system for this car? I could I have a custom cat back built cheaper than a kit But I’d like to pick the best sounding/quality components. I would prefer to get a dual tail pipe outlet to go with a rear spoiler that I scoped out for later. I have a little spending money and ready to go shopping...

Thanks again...

[S8ET6]

S8ET6, You are a big help and I appreciate it, you are in Chicago, I’m in Michigan and I swear if I get this thing on the road and stable, I coming to the windy city for a club meetor show or something and I owe you the first 3 rounds of beer or whatever you favorite drink is....

Okay, the smoke test should work from a hose connected to the intake. I want to replace the vac lines today, but I’ll have to do some searching for and import parts store or maybe home depot. Advanced and AutoZone’s barley have a spark plug or oil filter for this car. Should I look for silicone hoses?? Also there are a few check valves, elbows and T's, can I clean or should I replace??

I will use a dead blow mallet on the cat to listen for a rattle; actually I did tap it lightly and did not hear anything. But I’m positive where the noise is and I’m sure it’s not the lifters. Only sound going on under the hood would be the injectors, which I had to get used to. That sound is not usually good on US cars.

What is the best 2.5 cat-back system for this car? I could I have a custom cat back built cheaper than a kit But I’d like to pick the best sounding/quality components. I would prefer to get a dual tail pipe outlet to go with a rear spoiler that I scoped out for later. I have a little spending money and ready to go shopping...

Thanks again...

Thanks. You need to check out the MWC chat thread under the regional section... We meet up on a regular basis and you're more than welcome to attend the next one.

Ive had silicone lines for the past 5-6 years and they've held up well over time. Unfortunately, the company I purchased mine from no longer has a good reputation, so I can't refer you to them. However, if you search VS I'm sure that you can find another source for silicone hoses.

As for the exhaust, a custom solution would be your best/cheapest bet. I purchased a magnaflow muffler online for about $70 with shipping and had my local guy replace the old system with 3" piping from the cat back. I also deleted the resonator. I don't suffer from drone at any rpm with this setup

Edit: oh, and keep in mind that bad cats should throw a code. So if you don't have a CEL then I guess you can assume that they are not clogged.

[S80T6P_T_M]

So I fixed the resenator rattle issue and there is not a clog in the Cat.(no CEL) I have the car running smooth in idle a little rough when the rpms get higher, and while driving. It still seems to be in limp mode and is very sluggish while accelerating and the car does not want to go. So with that said, I want to look for my next task at hand.

I want to perform a vacuum leak test on the whole system, what would be the best method smoke or presure test? I will also look to get a new tank of gas and a new filter as the gas in the tank is almost empty and is at least a year old. One question I have is what is the best way to rest the computer to have the computer re-adapt to the engine?? I read that I can disconnect the negative terminal and touch it to the positive for 30 seconds and that will clear it. Not sure if that works but by me just disconnecting the battery for 20 minutes did nothing. Is there anything else I should be looking at or testing.. getting close to a brick wall here.. I an greatful for any help..

Thanks

[S8ET6]

So I fixed the resenator rattle issue and there is not a clog in the Cat.(no CEL) I have the car running smooth in idle a little rough when the rpms get higher, and while driving. It still seems to be in limp mode and is very sluggish while accelerating and the car does not want to go. So with that said, I want to look for my next task at hand.

I want to perform a vacuum leak test on the whole system, what would be the best method smoke or presure test? I will also look to get a new tank of gas and a new filter as the gas in the tank is almost empty and is at least a year old. One question I have is what is the best way to rest the computer to have the computer re-adapt to the engine?? I read that I can disconnect the negative terminal and touch it to the positive for 30 seconds and that will clear it. Not sure if that works but by me just disconnecting the battery for 20 minutes did nothing. Is there anything else I should be looking at or testing.. getting close to a brick wall here.. I an greatful for any help..

Thanks

Cheapest to make would be the pressure tester - assuming that you have an air compressor already. To reset the computer, hold the negative terminal to the positive one for 30-60 seconds.

Change the fuel filter and buy some fresh gas (get premium). Change the air filter too if you haven't.

Also, does your temp guage work? If so, is the issue you're describing occuring while the motor is cold, or does it occur once the car is at normal operation temps too?

Where in Michigan are you located?

[S80T6P_T_M]

Yes I a in Michigan. The car does this cold as well as hot, the temp gauge works I've let it idle for a good while to make sure there wasn't a over heating issue. When I start the car it starts right up idles at 2000 rpm for about 5 seconds and then down to 650-750rpm steady.. I know its problaby something dumb, I had the same issue on my explorer and it was a $5 elbow..lol it ran crappy until I found it..I have a compressor so ill try to get the parts, I found a write up on it. Correct me if I'm worng but I believe you were the author and weather true or not I thank you and the author... I want to cover all the simple thing for now so ill be back at it some time in the AM.. ill post an update around noon..

Thanks

[burnout8488]

This sounds exactly like an ETM problem, I think you should put your efforts towards investigating it further unless you're 100% sure it's not the problem for some reason. Does yours have a yellow or white (original ETM) label on it? Any time the car feels like it's in a limp mode, ETM is a logical culprit.

[S80T6P_T_M]

Thanks for the tip Burnout I was hoping to get to stage 0 with all the basics but if not I got to do it, so I have checked for the tag I did not see one. Would it be on the ETM facing the front of the car? I'm assuming I will need an ETM gasket and some good TB cleaner and a brush per some of the write ups.. ill start getting tools/parts and possibly get to it by wed..

Thans

[burnout8488]

Yup, the label should be on the front facing the radiator, albeit upside down. It will say Volvo on it in big letters. Perhaps it's filthy and you can't see the color?

The gasket is metal, and for diagnostic purposes you shouldn't need to replace it unless it has visibly failed. Cleaning the ETM may help a small small amount, but they fail electronically on the inside, so if it's exhibiting the limp home symptoms, cleaning it most likely won't help. I just sold a 2008 ETM I had laying around that worked perfectly. If I still had it I'd let you use it for diagnostic purposes. Any ETM from a turbocharged Volvo of your generation will work without any dealer programming necessary.

[S80T6P_T_M]

Okay thanks for the Info, I will be in search of an ETM to change out and test. I have some new information since I reset the computer and a scan after words. After the reset I drove the car around for a while, and the car actually had more acceleration and power until the CEL came back on. This time after it came on, during take off the CEL would flash while accelerating, once I back off and cruise it would stop flashing. I went to a friends and scanned it right away.. Same codes. what Im thinking now since Im positive of the misfire Im while looking for an ETM, I will test the coil packs. My thoughts are that the codes I am getting are false caused by the misfire.. I've seen this in other cars and I also want to rule out coil packs..

[S80T6P_T_M]

Thanks to all here that responded, I nailed the misfire issue. J J..I had a bad #3 and #4 coil pack. I replaced them and the new toy has balls and potential.. Made me smile from ear to ear that its good now. Although I am having another issue and I am thinking and hoping its small. At the beginning of the test drive as I pulled away slow but steady there was a stumble during acceleration, but right after it took off.. I on the way back I cruised at about 40mph and sopped, I know there’s an ETM but when I went to take off again it pulled very little but it was as if there was no cablesignal to the ETM at all, pedal goes to the floor and no go. All while this is occurring the car is at Idle with little to no change in idle as I pressed the pedal. I was lucky I was still rolling about 25 yards from the garage. I looked to see what was up and I noticed while I was putting it all back together I had an issue with the intercooler hose clamp which was resolved but this made me forget to tighten the turbo intake hoses. So after Tightening them up I cranked the car and had like a weird idle, but after a few restarts it was good again. Did not have time to test drive again or scan for codes so Ill shoot to do this tomorrow..

Does anyone know what might have happened here?? I believe it was the intake hose possibly making the MAF act up but would love some input or other opinions.

I have completed the following to the car and would like to hear what should be my next replacementmaintenance or Mod. Keep in mind I will get to the trans and will at least flush and fill, but what else should I go for?? Thanks to All Again

Changed:

Plugs + #3,#4 coil packs

Oil & filter

Clamps, and a few hoses

Air filter&fuel filter

Silencer (want to go with Cat back system but not sure on a muffler or pipe size to go with)

So far not bad for $1000 for the car and $200 in parts…. In my book anyway.

[S80T6P_T_M]

I wanted to add that I still did not see the sticker on the ETM. But I did call the dealer to have them look up my VIN. The guy I talked to was helpful and stated that my car Did not show it called for a recall on the ETM.. I asked him again if it was ever recalled for my car would he see that.. his reply was if it was ever recalled it would show in his system.. I dont want to jump the gun but I just wanted to be sure, im not quite there but If I were a service advisor I would find a way to get you in somehow.. after all thats how they make money. Anyways my car is out of warranty and they want like $89 an hour to scan all of the software on the car.

[S8ET6]

Thanks to all here that responded, I nailed the misfire issue. J J..I had a bad #3 and #4 coil pack. I replaced them and the new toy has balls and potential.. Made me smile from ear to ear that its good now. Although I am having another issue and I am thinking and hoping its small. At the beginning of the test drive as I pulled away slow but steady there was a stumble during acceleration, but right after it took off.. I on the way back I cruised at about 40mph and sopped, I know there’s an ETM but when I went to take off again it pulled very little but it was as if there was no cablesignal to the ETM at all, pedal goes to the floor and no go. All while this is occurring the car is at Idle with little to no change in idle as I pressed the pedal. I was lucky I was still rolling about 25 yards from the garage. I looked to see what was up and I noticed while I was putting it all back together I had an issue with the intercooler hose clamp which was resolved but this made me forget to tighten the turbo intake hoses. So after Tightening them up I cranked the car and had like a weird idle, but after a few restarts it was good again. Did not have time to test drive again or scan for codes so Ill shoot to do this tomorrow..

Does anyone know what might have happened here?? I believe it was the intake hose possibly making the MAF act up but would love some input or other opinions.

I have completed the following to the car and would like to hear what should be my next replacementmaintenance or Mod. Keep in mind I will get to the trans and will at least flush and fill, but what else should I go for?? Thanks to All Again

Changed:

Plugs + #3,#4 coil packs

Oil & filter

Clamps, and a few hoses

Air filter&fuel filter

Silencer (want to go with Cat back system but not sure on a muffler or pipe size to go with)

So far not bad for $1000 for the car and $200 in parts…. In my book anyway.

Turn off traction control by pressing and holding the DSTC button until the light goes off. Try accelerating from a stand still again and report back

[burnout8488]

That's interesting the ETM sticker is gone! But, by the sounds of what the service advisor said, it probably hasn't been replaced at Volvo. Given that your car has ~181,000mi, there's a miniscule chance it's the original white-label ETM....but I suppose it is possible.

If you ever run across a known working turbo ETM, grab it, because you'll inevitably need it. My original 1999 ETM just started stumbling at idle today with 145,500 on the clock. This is above average life for an ETM, and I consider myself lucky.