atefitty Posted April 15, 2012 Report Share Posted April 15, 2012 So I bought a power bleeder and bled the clutch but when I try to put it into gear it wont engage and the car tries to move forward..The shifter goes through the gears fine with the car not running..I checked all the connections and everything is tight, no leaks...I have a new OEM clutch master and slave cylinder and high pressure hose.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jardim Posted April 15, 2012 Report Share Posted April 15, 2012 how does the pedal feel when you depress it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atefitty Posted April 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2012 The pedal feels pretty good but if I open the bleeder when the pedal is to the floor to let air out and then close bleeder the pedal doesn't come back up, is that normal? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jardim Posted April 15, 2012 Report Share Posted April 15, 2012 means its not bled lol, Make sure the bleeder is facing upwards or at least in a upward angle when installed in the car..... You need to do it until you open the bleeder and nothing but fluid comes out, takes a while manually, i dont know how power bleeders work. I had someone at the bleeder opening and closing it all the time as i pressed...took almost an hour and a half to get it good.It could be that or your master or slave is no good, used or new?nvm you said new OEM :idiot: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atefitty Posted April 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2012 means its not bled lol, Make sure the bleeder is facing upwards or at least in a upward angle when installed in the car..... You need to do it until you open the bleeder and nothing but fluid comes out, takes a while manually, i dont know how power bleeders work. I had someone at the bleeder opening and closing it all the time as i pressed...took almost an hour and a half to get it good. It could be that or your master or slave is no good, used or new? nvm you said new OEM Wow, an hour and a half...I think I must have been doing mine for at least 45 min..So, is it normal for the car to try to move forward when I try to go into first gear? this is because I still have air correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jardim Posted April 15, 2012 Report Share Posted April 15, 2012 Honestly if you can get a buddy to help you do it manually i would do it, the clutch is easy just gotta be patient, unlike brakes.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atefitty Posted April 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2012 Honestly if you can get a buddy to help you do it manually i would do it, the clutch is easy just gotta be patient, unlike brakes.. Should I use the power bleeder and have someone pump the clutch or is someone pumping the clutch good enough? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tightmopedman9 Posted April 15, 2012 Report Share Posted April 15, 2012 No sure how your power bleeder works but I rigged one up using a cap for a gasoline tank that pressurized the brake fluid reservoir. Once there was pressure on the reservoir I opened the bleeder screw and waited until just fluid came out. If you do it this way it's pretty easy, just make sure to keep an eye on your fluid so it doesn't go too low. As for doing it manually, get someone in the car. Open the bleeder screw and tell them to press the pedal down, then with the pedal down close the bleeder screw and tell them to take their foot back up. Keep doing ad nausea until you get 10-15 pumps without any bubbles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
854TGA+ Posted April 15, 2012 Report Share Posted April 15, 2012 Make sure the brake master cylinder reservoir is full full full Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick Dastardly Posted April 15, 2012 Report Share Posted April 15, 2012 Make sure the brake master cylinder reservoir is full full full This this this!! ALL THE WAY FULL...to the Absolute top at all times. The clutch uses the top 1/4 inch or so of the reservoir..if it drops below that you are pumping air into the system and everything you have done is ruined..you will just keep going in circles. Should take 5-10 min tops to bleed the clutch system when you do it right Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goldponcho Posted April 16, 2012 Report Share Posted April 16, 2012 This this this!! ALL THE WAY FULL...to the Absolute top at all times. The clutch uses the top 1/4 inch or so of the reservoir..if it drops below that you are pumping air into the system and everything you have done is ruined..you will just keep going in circles. Should take 5-10 min tops to bleed the clutch system when you do it right So glad I read most of the threads on this board. I've been fighting air in my brakes since buying the wagon a few weeks back. When I bled them again yesterday, I noticed the fluid level wasn't at the top of the reservoir. It's topped off now, might make one more stab at bleeding everything and see how it feels. Manual-swaps sure are fun....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted April 16, 2012 Report Share Posted April 16, 2012 Another way to deal with it if you are solo, is to put a short hose off the slave bleeder into a clear jar full of fluid. Make sure the reservoir is alWays full. Open the bleed nipple & gently stroke the pedal - it will push bubbles out into the jar and suck fluid back in. As long as you check the resv is topped off, you should be done in ten min, the system holds very little fluid. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atefitty Posted April 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2012 So glad I read most of the threads on this board. I've been fighting air in my brakes since buying the wagon a few weeks back. When I bled them again yesterday, I noticed the fluid level wasn't at the top of the reservoir. It's topped off now, might make one more stab at bleeding everything and see how it feels. Manual-swaps sure are fun....... Brakes are a piece of cake..Always start with the wheel that is furthest away from the master cylinder and continue with the next closest wheel.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jardim Posted April 16, 2012 Report Share Posted April 16, 2012 Another way to deal with it if you are solo, is to put a short hose off the slave bleeder into a clear jar full of fluid. Make sure the reservoir is alWays full. Open the bleed nipple & gently stroke the pedal - it will push bubbles out into the jar and suck fluid back in. As long as you check the resv is topped off, you should be done in ten min, the system holds very little fluid. Yeah still took me forever when i did it this way, cause my fluid bottle was white =( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CLobsinger Posted April 17, 2012 Report Share Posted April 17, 2012 I had the same problem when I did my manual swap... I must have bled them 100 times and still the same. Pedal to the floor, trying to engage first and it would try to crawl forward. Turned out that I was sent a faulty slave cylinder. Luckily I had an extra laying around... I would go through and bleed again as everyone has said, resevoir FULL the entire time until you have nothing but fluid. I have a motive power bleeder, so it took about 10 mins(Definitely recommend it for solo bleeding!). If it still doesn't work, I would just contact the store/site you purchased from and tell them they sold you broke sh-! Haha. Hope you get it sorted out, I know how frustrating it can be! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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