Piston Slapper Posted April 17, 2012 Report Share Posted April 17, 2012 Ya, it should not move at all when you put it in gear if the clutch it working properly. If it is, it means the clutch is not fully disengaged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atefitty Posted April 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2012 I had the same problem when I did my manual swap... I must have bled them 100 times and still the same. Pedal to the floor, trying to engage first and it would try to crawl forward. Turned out that I was sent a faulty slave cylinder. Luckily I had an extra laying around... I would go through and bleed again as everyone has said, resevoir FULL the entire time until you have nothing but fluid. I have a motive power bleeder, so it took about 10 mins(Definitely recommend it for solo bleeding!). If it still doesn't work, I would just contact the store/site you purchased from and tell them they sold you broke sh-! Haha. Hope you get it sorted out, I know how frustrating it can be! Thanks for your comments..I have a new slave cylinder from the dealer, if I cannot resolve this soon I will retirn it.. Ya, it should not move at all when you put it in gear if the clutch it working properly. If it is, it means the clutch is not fully disengaged. It won't even engage the gear, just tries to move forward while I'm tring to shift to first gear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
(n)A-GAME Posted April 17, 2012 Report Share Posted April 17, 2012 I'm going to go out on a limb and suggest you bleed it again. Just because you used a power bleeder does not mean you got all the air out. Use Hussein's method or have someone help you out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick Dastardly Posted April 17, 2012 Report Share Posted April 17, 2012 Yep. Not bled properly...probably not keeping reservoir all the way full and reintroducing air. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boost_Junky Posted April 17, 2012 Report Share Posted April 17, 2012 Gravity bleed it, it's the best way to bleed. IMHO power bleeders introduce more issues than they fix. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ihatespeedbumps Posted April 18, 2012 Report Share Posted April 18, 2012 You tried the oil can idea I posted in another thread? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxpin Posted April 18, 2012 Report Share Posted April 18, 2012 Oil can method (reverse bleed) works great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atefitty Posted April 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2012 Gravity bleed it, it's the best way to bleed. IMHO power bleeders introduce more issues than they fix. I bled nearly 2 large bottles of brake fluid with my Motive power bleeder last night and still it wont go into gear while running..Still tries to creep forward..I'm going back to the old fashined way and get a helper to pump the brakes and drop the power bleeder.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted April 18, 2012 Report Share Posted April 18, 2012 I bled nearly 2 large bottles of brake fluid with my Motive power bleeder last night and still it wont go into gear while running..Still tries to creep forward..I'm going back to the old fashined way and get a helper to pump the brakes and drop the power bleeder.. That's your problem right there - you're pressing the wrong pedal Seriously, though. This should be a very straightforward process, as long as the reservoir is completely full. You did remember to cut the end of the reservoir nipple before attaching the hose that feeds the master, right? Long, gentle strokes, no rapid pumping, either. This ain't a quick fck :lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boost_Junky Posted April 19, 2012 Report Share Posted April 19, 2012 Are there pedal adjustments on these cars? I know my s2k has one and it needs to be in the right spot or "it no worky." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jardim Posted April 20, 2012 Report Share Posted April 20, 2012 none that i know of, i simply swapped the pedals in and the way they are on worked out with no issues Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boost_Junky Posted April 21, 2012 Report Share Posted April 21, 2012 none that i know of, i simply swapped the pedals in and the way they are on worked out with no issues see if there is a rod that has threads in it that connects the pedal to the slave cylinder, if it does spin that thing to adjust the pedal throw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atefitty Posted April 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2012 You tried the oil can idea I posted in another thread? Tried the oil can thing and still nothing...It does force the fluid back up though...makes a hell of a mess... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
atefitty Posted April 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2012 A mechanic at an Independant Volvo shop told me to put my finger over the slave cylinder bleeder hole and untighten and have someone pump the clutch This prevents air from getting sucked back in...he said it will all of the sudden just catch and start working..after about 300 pumps or so..ha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick Dastardly Posted April 23, 2012 Report Share Posted April 23, 2012 As I and others have stated before, this should take no more than 5 or 10 minutes MAX. Keep the reservoir full and push pedal down while nipple is open, pull up while closed. This is so simple. No need for secret tricks just do it the right way. Or If you want to gravity bleed, stand there for @20 min with the nipple open and keep fluid at the top while pedal is up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.