boxpin Posted April 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2012 So here is my plan. I ran a couple test runs at different heats. The one on the left was the highest heat and seemed to penetrate best. Next I will cut off the EGR section of the manifold where the white line is. Then cut a sliced V in the R manifold like seen here. Weld the EGR section on the R manifold and away I go. I dont see any reason this would not work save the welds dont turn out. Anyone have an R manifold for sale? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dick Dastardly Posted April 21, 2012 Report Share Posted April 21, 2012 Its an interesting idea..I am curious to see how it works out for you. Read up a little on cast welding..I know that high nickle rods are favored and in your case preheating with a torch might be good (I don't have much hands on experience with this..this is just from working with a guy who can repair cast). You could try brazing too, this was suggested to me by a someone I know today when I asked him about what you were trying to do. Isn't california's rule with engine swaps that it has to follow the most modern guidelines? IE: if its a 95 with a 2003 engine it has to meet the 2003 guidelines..and if you put a 95 engine in the 2003 chassis it still has to meet 2003 guidelines? something to that effect... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
98t5M Posted April 21, 2012 Report Share Posted April 21, 2012 Which welding process are you planning to use? Tig would be much better than mig in this situation. Normal filler materials don't work well on cast and will probably crack in short order. You should look for the proper filler rod or wire for welding cast and preheat your work and allow it to cool very slowly. (I.e. in an oven) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxpin Posted April 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 22, 2012 Cut the piece off. Pretty thick in that area. Has me a bit concern. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryan850-t5 Posted April 23, 2012 Report Share Posted April 23, 2012 Did you have to take it to an official smog check place? Not sure how else to say it. I had to do that once cause my car wasnt passing. I found out i just needed to change my computer. Regular smog places ive gone to havent always checked all the visual stuff. They just do the test and thats it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lookforjoe Posted April 23, 2012 Report Share Posted April 23, 2012 Cut the piece off. Pretty thick in that area. Has me a bit concern. You don't have to cut that much off the new manifold - as long as exhaust gases can enter the port (which they will), it will pass through the attached tube. Shame you couldn't have cut that off flatter - would make it easier to weld. I'd just drill a hole @ the wide end of the slot (in the new mani), and leave it at that... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
550 Posted April 23, 2012 Report Share Posted April 23, 2012 You don't have to cut that much off the new manifold - as long as exhaust gases can enter the port (which they will), it will pass through the attached tube. Shame you couldn't have cut that off flatter - would make it easier to weld. I'd just drill a hole @ the wide end of the slot (in the new mani), and leave it at that... Yeah, what he could do is just cut that "boss" flat, and then drill a hole into the mani at the same spot. It is a PITA to drill into cast, but it's do able. Go slow, and PM'ed you on the welding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxpin Posted April 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2012 Did you have to take it to an official smog check place? Not sure how else to say it. I had to do that once cause my car wasnt passing. I found out i just needed to change my computer. Regular smog places ive gone to havent always checked all the visual stuff. They just do the test and thats it. Yes, yes, yes. I am unfortunately experienced with the California's Bureau of Automotive Repair (BAR). I failed the VISUAL inspection a year ago and had to take my car to the State BAR to have it approved. I learned a ton about the standards of whats allowed and whats not. My car passed emissions wise but failed visually because of the exhaust having the AFR bung welded in it and a Chevy CAT. But, being a 95 I was able to have all my intake components on the car when it passed(intake, Sconeman, RIP, etc). What I had to change was the exhaust from the turbo back. Problem was I had an angled turbo flange. Had to improvise by attaching an angled flange to the conical downpipe. Bottom line, I passed but it wasnt easy. Before and after: You don't have to cut that much off the new manifold - as long as exhaust gases can enter the port (which they will), it will pass through the attached tube. Shame you couldn't have cut that off flatter - would make it easier to weld. I'd just drill a hole @ the wide end of the slot (in the new mani), and leave it at that... Yeah, what he could do is just cut that "boss" flat, and then drill a hole into the mani at the same spot. It is a PITA to drill into cast, but it's do able. Go slow, and PM'ed you on the welding. Thats probably the best option. Punch a hold in the manifold then flatten the part I cut off to fit flush on the manifold then weld it on. Thanks guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burnout8488 Posted April 23, 2012 Report Share Posted April 23, 2012 At this point does that EGR boss even need to be functional? Can't you just weld it on, make it LOOK like exhaust flows through it, when in reality it's just tacked on to the manifold with no hole underneath? You said they only test functionality of the EGR solenoid, but didn't specifically say whether they test if exhaust gasses are going IN to the EGR. Correct me if I'm wrong.Then again, you've gone this far, it would only make sense to skip drilling the R manifold if it was a complete b*tch to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxman142001 Posted April 23, 2012 Report Share Posted April 23, 2012 question on this topic. I live in AZ and will be removing my EGR when I swap the R Manifold on. Lucky has deleted it from my BLUE tuned ecu. Do I simply plug the port in the intake manifold and unplug the sensor? Should be pretty easy, just not 100% as to whats involved since I havent done one before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxpin Posted April 24, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 24, 2012 question on this topic. I live in AZ and will be removing my EGR when I swap the R Manifold on. Lucky has deleted it from my BLUE tuned ecu. Do I simply plug the port in the intake manifold and unplug the sensor? Should be pretty easy, just not 100% as to whats involved since I havent done one before. Yes, thats what you do. At this point does that EGR boss even need to be functional? Can't you just weld it on, make it LOOK like exhaust flows through it, when in reality it's just tacked on to the manifold with no hole underneath? You said they only test functionality of the EGR solenoid, but didn't specifically say whether they test if exhaust gasses are going IN to the EGR. Correct me if I'm wrong. Then again, you've gone this far, it would only make sense to skip drilling the R manifold if it was a complete b*tch to do. They will put a vacuum pump on the EGR and manually open the valve seeing if the engine is affected. So even if I just tacked it on they would find me out. Its best to make it functional. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
burnout8488 Posted April 24, 2012 Report Share Posted April 24, 2012 They will put a vacuum pump on the EGR and manually open the valve seeing if the engine is affected. So even if I just tacked it on they would find me out. Its best to make it functional. Ah, drat! Might as well go for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D s50r Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 You failed because u had a wideband sensor?!?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boxpin Posted April 25, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 You failed because u had a wideband sensor?!?! Ya, I just stared at the guy in disbelief. He said I had modified the downpipe between the manifold and the cat and that was a no no. But, when I went to the BAR they said that it was ok and that I got lame smog guy. The BAR did fail me for the cat I was using. The BAR said i can do anything I want after the rear O2, even straight pipe would pass. Thats why I put the stock exhaust back on. I keep it in the garage for future smog tests. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D s50r Posted April 25, 2012 Report Share Posted April 25, 2012 Wow Cali is very tough.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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