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My Setup (Subwoofers)!


Simply Volvo

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The trunk in my old 98 V70, now my younger brothers car.
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Here's the start of my setup for my 99 R, but I'm waiting on carpet to come in to finish up the trunk.
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EDIT: Finished picture:

DSC_0963.jpg

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thats awesome andy. i dont have enough patience to build around the wheel wheels and what not lol. that pretty awesome how you fit your most recent box. how much space did you manage to get out of that?

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thats awesome andy. i dont have enough patience to build around the wheel wheels and what not lol. that pretty awesome how you fit your most recent box. how much space did you manage to get out of that?

Thanks dude! I don't actually know how much internal volume the box has, only that it is more than the 1.3 cu ft I needed for the sub :lol: I actually re-worked the way the floor panels fit on that side of the trunk--the bottom of the box replaces the small panel there, and reuses the stock clips to help secure it in place.

I can't wait to fiberglass a box that fits much better. Its not the stealthiest setup, but it sounds quite good in my opinion.

EDIT: Also, in that picture, the amp's cover isn't on so it looks like dick, but oh well :lol:

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yea cuz when i was trying to build a box for a single 12 sealed. i couldn't manage to get more than .8 cube (not enough) in that area with out putting that extension like you have.

and i did not feel like designing a peice like that to make up some more volume. im happy with my ported set up.

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The first box I built is exactly that, 0.8 cu ft. You can get to around 1.0 cu ft simply by adding the bit towards the tailgate--that's pretty easy carpentry and doesn't take too much planning. The part over the wheel well is a bit of a pain in the ass though :lol:

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I prefer sealed as well, everything just seems to run together with a ported box.

Agreed, as most ported set ups are optimized for a specific frequency response, if you change the music it will sound off.

Also getting the port to that optimized sound is such a pin in the arse IMO. Must use flared ports to minimize port noise.

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  • 2 weeks later...

pshh all i hear is "i like to take the easy way out" :P (just poking fun nothing serious to anyone haha)

i agree with everything you said. getting a specific tuning then port noise. but if you do your math right and take in account for things then you get good results.

i wont lie i had to fuck with the port 4-5 times to get it tuned to where it sounds good on all the music. but also once you get into like 6th order boxes :D hello bass

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  • 1 month later...

Thread jack....

Picture215.jpg

Nice!!! how low does it hit?

Agreed, as most ported set ups are optimized for a specific frequency response, if you change the music it will sound off.

Also getting the port to that optimized sound is such a pin in the arse IMO. Must use flared ports to minimize port noise.

not exactly true, a ported box can be tuned to around 25hz and that will give a very flat response.

port noise is the effect of to small a port, at high excursion you will hear it. simple solution is a shorter port with a larger area if possible.

I've done many designs in BassBox trying to find the perfect specs for my L7's

Sealed boxes are much easier to build and are more tolerant to error. They do respond quicker, ported subs are kinda like a car with no shocks if that's how you want to look at it

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  • 3 months later...
Nice!!! how low does it hit? not exactly true, a ported box can be tuned to around 25hz and that will give a very flat response. port noise is the effect of to small a port, at high excursion you will hear it. simple solution is a shorter port with a larger area if possible. I've done many designs in BassBox trying to find the perfect specs for my L7's Sealed boxes are much easier to build and are more tolerant to error. They do respond quicker, ported subs are kinda like a car with no shocks if that's how you want to look at it
mostly true but if you shorten the port it will tune higher and that is the downfall of most ported boxes. For most car audio applications a tuning range of 30-35 is optimal. Anything higher will risk the woofers unloading when playing below tuning and damaging themselves. I have two 12s in my trunk in a ported box tuned to 32. They are on a 1500 watt rms amplifier and my windshield flexes and my sunroof almost comes off its tracks. Im about to switch to one 12 in a 6th order design which is a ported box inside of another ported box which should be equally as loud on half the power. I will post pictures when I start it, not that anybody cares.
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  • 2 weeks later...

i would love to see pics! How large will this build be? If it requires 2 chambers + port it cant be to small..... I'm considering doing 2 sealed boxes, having no trunk is starting to become a inconvenience lol

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  • 2 weeks later...

For anything but SPL I tune the box as low as reasonable with the specific sub. This tends to flatten the response and boost up the very low notes.

Or I build a properly sized sealed box and make sure I have the power to drive it properly.

Ported boxes for SPL, or those of you who have no ear for quality sound, will tune higher. Many tune up in the 40's, wherever they can get the loudest tone out of the subs to post a bigger number. And that will vary based on the resonant frequency of the specific vehicle.

Port noise is a problem, but easily eliminated when designing the box.

There are a few ways to keep the port noise minimal. Size of the port opening and shape can reduce the noise, but it's a compromise. Too small will require a longer port and will often introduce more high frequency noise. Too large in diameter and shorter will allow you to hear both sides of the sub at the same time, and often with a different tone. This isn't the exact science behind it, I'm not going to go into the whole dynamics of speaker box design here, it's a basic explanation.

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