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'99 V70 Glt Won't Start...troubleshooting? (Video)


850wagonT5

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Hello,

I have a V70 that I was going to use as a DD. It has a leaky H/G and hasn't been driven in a while. I was going to run a liquid head/block seal through it and call it a day, but in order to do that, it has to at least start and idle! Clearly, it's not doing that. lol. Here's the vid...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OnyFECMYl0A&feature=youtu.be

The next time we cranked it a few seconds after this, it *almost* sputtered. Came much closer to starting than in the video. But I'm not sure where to look next. Here's the info I have to help troubleshoot:

1) I was told the cam sensor was bad; I replaced it with a used one thought to be good.

2) Crank sensor is new OEM

3) I removed the #1 coilpack and put a plug in it; it gets spark (looks like it may be weak, but it was daylight and hard to tell)

4) I removed the fuel rail and cranked it; all 5 injectors spray

5) The gas smells like it may be old, though I don't think it's more than 5-6 mos old

There's no water/coolant in the system; the upper pipe is removed. I just need to get it to idle so I can flush/replace fluids and run the sealant through it. If you have any ideas on what/how to check next, please let me know. It seems so close to starting and it's driving me crazy!!! Thanks!

Oh...the PO replaced the exhaust cam solenoid...not sure if/how this could have an effect on anything or if it might somehow be a timing issue.

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Mechanical timing? To be honest, I haven't checked it yet. I will double check. This is the first one I've had with VVT...and I didn't notice the timing marks for the gears on the top cover like the P1 cars. Do the marks line up with the valve cover? I'll set the crank to TDC and see what the cam gears look like.

The coilpack wires seem impossible to mess up, but I will double check them...but it seems they can only go shortest -> longest from 5 to 1.

The cap on the cam...sounds like you're thinking P1? But those metal caps can only go on one way - the little prongs are off-center, so if you have it the wrong way it's really obvious and it won't go on right.

Any other ideas, let me know! I'll try a few of these things this weekend.

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The H/G could be blown to the point that the engine won't start, but it sounds like it has some compression.

If it is going to start, hook up a battery box or jumper cables to another car and crank with the gas pedal to the floor. It could take several minutes of cranking and if the engine does run you'll need to keep holding the key even if the starter is dragging. Under no circumstance should you ever lift the gas pedal while cranking, only when the engine can be revved without fear of dying.

On another note, stop leak won't fix your problem. If you're going to DD this vehicle fix the HG right so you aren't left stranded somewhere. Stop leak is like a shitty band aid, they don't stay on.

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Cool, I'll stay on it a bit longer and see. As for the shitty band-aid stop leak...that's what I used on the car in my sig. It's been holding 20psi on the T3/T4 on E85 for the last 6 months. :) New motor is coming soon so I figured it was worth a shot, and the stuff worked way better than I thought. So I thought if it was holding the cracked head and blown HG together on that car, it would surely hold on the DD!

I used the KW brand in the green bottle ($39 or so)...the next one down price-wise from the Blue Devil stuff which is something like $65.

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That's the stuff! The bottle was round, but yeah, same stuff. Works pretty awesome. I've been racing the car here and there for months...no water in the crank case, coolant overflow tank still full, and still close to 20psi on cool nights.

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